Ok, I've gone back 20 pages in the general tech threads looking for the information that I'm after.

Current issue is that the rear passenger brake piston came apart, along with some other parts in the brakes breaking. No worries, getting the parts tomorrow. Will update if I need any mkre help on that.

Next issue..... the heater..... works fine when I'm sitting still, making hot air in the cab.... but driving down the road, not so much. Now, my first thought is to replace the heater core, any other ideas?

Powered window regulators, front drivers and passenger...... any help finding the correct motors with the correct plugs would be great.....

 

Is your coolant full? Does your engine temp sit at 210 idling AND driving?

 

1)Heat:if you have plenty of heat when you're sitting there idling and not driving I'd check ALL the vacuum lines and the vacuum bottle under the bumper for leaks as the heat distribution is controlled by vacuum . the last thing you want to do on a 97+ is replaced the heater core if you don't need to.
2) what's wrong with the windows? Before you start replacing motors run 12v to the motor connector and see if they work...up,/down is done by switching polarity.
Wires in the door hinges is first suspect

 

Either that or the thermostat is stuck open. If there's a vacuum leak and it works at idle, it should also work while coasting with the throttle closed. Find a hill and coast down it with the throttle closed and ideally downshift a bit to keep the revs up. If it's a vacuum leak, the problem should go away while coasting downhill.

 

In addition to esasemech's post, another common problem with XJ electric windows can be traced to corrosion on the window control itself. You may have to get to it and check for that as well. The heat sounds like the blend door is not doing its job. Maybe a vacuum leak or it may be that something is getting stuck in the door to keep it from shutting. Should be able to diagnose that without much trouble. Can you switch the air flow from the floor to the vents to the defrost without problem? If you can that would indicate your vacuum system is ok and you need to check the blend door for something blocking its travel. If you cannot, the first place to check for a break in your vacuum lines is at the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine. The line originates on the intake and goes back to the firewall across to the passenger side fender where it services your cruise control (if you have it) and ends up at the vacuum "ball" located just behind the bumper on the passenger side.

 

Got fuel, new battery, new fuel rail and pump, CPS, plugs, wire, distro cap.... will crank but won't start..... doesn't sound like the starter is going, but should I replace it anyway?

 

You need to stop throwing parts at the poor thing and do some diagnostics

When it doesn't start:
... what is the fuel pressure?
...do you have spark? ( When you replaced the CPS what did you use for a replacement!)

...will it start and run for a few seconds if you spray a little starting fluid into the throttle body?

And no, if it's cranking replacing the starter motor isn't going to help


Did it start ok before you started working on the the list of problems you noted earlier.... vacuum for HVAC, wiring for doors etc??

 

replacing the CPS was based on a previous conversation here somewhere.
don't have a way of checking fuel PSI, not even sure how, or what tools are needed. So help there would be greatly appreciated.
Haven't touched the vacuum lines yet, or the window regulators.

Any guidance is VERY welcome, and tool suggestions.

Thanks guys

 

Boy, that is a lot to replace at one time...! If it is turning over and has fuel to the rail, the problem is going to be in the wires (are they in the correct order) the distributor/coil or the cps. Did you gap your plugs correctly? To see if you are getting fire, pull a plug, put the plug wire on it and put it in contact with a ground (like the cylinder head/block). When you turn the engine over you should see a spark. If no spark, then start at the cps as you can test it with a volt/ohm meter then move to the distributer and make sure the coil if firing. Going back around to your fuel ....are you hearing the fuel pump run just before you engage the starter? BTW, leave your starter alone unless it goes out!

 

You said earlier..."Next issue..... the heater..... works fine when I'm sitting still, making hot air in the cab.... but driving down the road, not so much. Now, my first thought is to replace the heater core, any other ideas?". So was running prior. Go back and check what you did/replace when it stopped running. Make sure getting fire and gas. On mine a few times when battery died I had to play with gas pedal to keep it running as computer I'm guessing had to relearn.

 

Almost all of the aftermarket window motors I've seen (at least for the rear when I did mine, not sure about front) have a female end on them, whereas the factory ones have male. Just cut the connector off the original motor and splice it onto the new one.

 

when I replaced the distribution cap, plugs and wires, i did a 1 for 1. Lined everything up, moved one wire at a time to the new cap, then replaced one wire and plug at a time. It ran great for awhile. Then one morning, it just stopped firing up.

update, just checked ignition sequence, it's correct. And the spark plugs are gapped at .035. Fuel pump engages when I turn on the ignition. Not sure how to check spark against the engine block as I'm alone. Cant hold the spark plug and turn the key.

Update to the update........ it's the flibbity flopping brand new fuel pump. Pulled the hose off the fuel rain, turned the ignition twice..... nothing. No fuel coming out of the hose from the tank........ SOAMFBA GD SOB POS!!!!!!!!!