99 cherokee sport. common problem? or bad news?
#1
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Model: Cherokee
99 cherokee sport. common problem? or bad news?
why ello there. i have a 99 cherokee sport. it has a steady check engine light for 2 codes, one being emissions and the other for some idle sensor if i remember correctly?
well when i drive at random the jeep will stall out (feels like it loses all spark and/or fuel). as it does the cel turns off and the battery gauge drops to zero along with the other gauges sometimes. as soon as it smooths off and runs good the cel goes back on. kinda weird it dies and stalls as the cel goes off?
headlights, radio, everything else stays working, just the gauges and motor fail.
if i dont hit the gas the jeep will die and be rough to start back up.
i pulled the plug wires and coil wire off and they were heavily corroded so i cleaned them off and the jeep didnt have a problem at all for days, ran like a top and didnt skip a beat.
but now it is doing it again at random. if it wants it will run fine all day long, then the next day act up every few seconds/mins.
this is my first jeep and i would like to know if anyone has any idea what causes this or how to fix it.
any input is greatly appreciated, as im trying to sell the jeep and want it to run good for the new owner.
thanks, Nolan
well when i drive at random the jeep will stall out (feels like it loses all spark and/or fuel). as it does the cel turns off and the battery gauge drops to zero along with the other gauges sometimes. as soon as it smooths off and runs good the cel goes back on. kinda weird it dies and stalls as the cel goes off?
headlights, radio, everything else stays working, just the gauges and motor fail.
if i dont hit the gas the jeep will die and be rough to start back up.
i pulled the plug wires and coil wire off and they were heavily corroded so i cleaned them off and the jeep didnt have a problem at all for days, ran like a top and didnt skip a beat.
but now it is doing it again at random. if it wants it will run fine all day long, then the next day act up every few seconds/mins.
this is my first jeep and i would like to know if anyone has any idea what causes this or how to fix it.
any input is greatly appreciated, as im trying to sell the jeep and want it to run good for the new owner.
thanks, Nolan
Last edited by crx6662; 01-28-2013 at 12:28 AM.
#2
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The emissions code could be a number of things, more likely than not it's an O2 sensor, and even more likely, the lower O2 sensor.
The rough idle could be a bad set of plugs/wires/ignition coil/cap and rotor or coil packs (depending on when in 99 yours was made), bad IAC, bad TPS....you get the idea, a lot contributes to how it idles. Go through each one one-by-one and replace if necessary.
The rough idle could be a bad set of plugs/wires/ignition coil/cap and rotor or coil packs (depending on when in 99 yours was made), bad IAC, bad TPS....you get the idea, a lot contributes to how it idles. Go through each one one-by-one and replace if necessary.
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Could you get the specific codes?
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Year: 1999
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This says a lot, to me. It seemed to solve your problems for a while anyway. I would do a good tune up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and clean the IAC. Maybe throw in a new upstream O2 sensor. Also, remove and clean both ends of both battery cables, and clean all ground points.
Could you get the specific codes?
Could you get the specific codes?
With OBD, the devil is in the details!
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
The CEL is not your enemy that needs to go off. It is trying to tell you something. Listen. Write down the codes. Google them. Then you'll have a much better idea of the issue.
#7
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i dont have a scanner handy and dont trust to drive it to the nearest parts store with a scanner (35 miles) is there a way to run the codes like the ignition trick? i have tried that with no luck
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
No offense dude but if you don't want to drive it to the parts store to get the codes, how were you going to get to the parts store for parts?
If you have a second vehicle I'd recommend getting a cheap OBD2 scanner. I love my '99 XJ but it'll turn 15 in a few months. In other words, you will use the code reader more than once lol. The problems you're describing can involve most of the drivetrain. You could drop $1000 on new parts and still not fix it.
If you're really bored, a total electrical connector refresh is always fun. Clean all connections (especially grounds) with a brass wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, and reassemble with some sort of electric grease like one of these: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html
If you have a second vehicle I'd recommend getting a cheap OBD2 scanner. I love my '99 XJ but it'll turn 15 in a few months. In other words, you will use the code reader more than once lol. The problems you're describing can involve most of the drivetrain. You could drop $1000 on new parts and still not fix it.
If you're really bored, a total electrical connector refresh is always fun. Clean all connections (especially grounds) with a brass wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, and reassemble with some sort of electric grease like one of these: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html
#9
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I just got a scanner, one of these:
for $17.50, the everyday price on Amazon is $20. Good reviews. may be worth your while.
#10
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just got a scanner, one of these: Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359410189&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2+scanner
for $17.50, the everyday price on Amazon is $20. Good reviews. may be worth your while.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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My choice for inexpensive code readers and scan tools is ACTRON. Great quality and you know they are going to be around for a while, unlike many of the no-name units.
Widely available and not much more coin than the cheapest ones; I got mine on amazon.
Widely available and not much more coin than the cheapest ones; I got mine on amazon.
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No offense dude but if you don't want to drive it to the parts store to get the codes, how were you going to get to the parts store for parts?
If you have a second vehicle I'd recommend getting a cheap OBD2 scanner. I love my '99 XJ but it'll turn 15 in a few months. In other words, you will use the code reader more than once lol. The problems you're describing can involve most of the drivetrain. You could drop $1000 on new parts and still not fix it.
If you're really bored, a total electrical connector refresh is always fun. Clean all connections (especially grounds) with a brass wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, and reassemble with some sort of electric grease like one of these: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html
If you have a second vehicle I'd recommend getting a cheap OBD2 scanner. I love my '99 XJ but it'll turn 15 in a few months. In other words, you will use the code reader more than once lol. The problems you're describing can involve most of the drivetrain. You could drop $1000 on new parts and still not fix it.
If you're really bored, a total electrical connector refresh is always fun. Clean all connections (especially grounds) with a brass wire brush, electrical contact cleaner, and reassemble with some sort of electric grease like one of these: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html
Available at Lowes and/or Home Depot. Use on your ground connections only.
#13
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Year: 1999
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I have an ACTRON CP9180 that I bought years ago. I don't think they sell this model anymore but they may be available on Ebay. If you get a scanner/code reader it won't be a waste of money because you can use it on your next vehicle. Just get an OBD II compatible reader. You don't need a CAN (unless your new vehicle is a 2005+) reader or a bilingual reader.
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's the ground points in the engine bay of your '99 that should be cleaned. G106 is located on the left inner fender near the PCM.
Here's some pictorial data concerning the bonding strap on the firewall:
Pic of the rusty firewall connection.
And the bolt at that connection.
This is the new firewall bolt installation. You can wire wheel yours to remove the rust or replace it.
This is the cylinder head bolt/stud ground point. I cleaned it up and installed two nuts to sandwhich the ring terminal.
You should get some NOALOX and apply it to the ring teminal ends at assembly.
Here's some pictorial data concerning the bonding strap on the firewall:
Pic of the rusty firewall connection.
And the bolt at that connection.
This is the new firewall bolt installation. You can wire wheel yours to remove the rust or replace it.
This is the cylinder head bolt/stud ground point. I cleaned it up and installed two nuts to sandwhich the ring terminal.
You should get some NOALOX and apply it to the ring teminal ends at assembly.
#15
Get this if you have an android phone.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NL...sr=8-1&pi=SL75
Then download Torque and sync it up. You can read codes and even clear them. We can't help you if we don't know the codes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NL...sr=8-1&pi=SL75
Then download Torque and sync it up. You can read codes and even clear them. We can't help you if we don't know the codes.