Have you tested your coil and you won't have any gages if you try a 96 computer test the primary and secondary wines in the coil

 

I'd also suspect the coil. I had one go in the '97 not long ago and the engine wanted to fire but wouldn't. It mimicked possible other ignition issues, but was simply the coil itself. They often won't give you any indication that they are going bad, but one day just won't work.

Check your coil wire carefully also. When the coil went on the '97, it took the coil side of the wire with it also.

 

We've definately got fire coming from the coil! i found that out the hard way! haha. and we plugged a spark plug into the wire the lead from the coil to the top of the distibutor and got fire.

But aside from that, yesterday i put 6 new spark plugs in after seeing the difference in gap between the new one and old one. Almost double! That surprisingly fixed the orange spark because now its a strong blue/white.

Now, we're begining to think that the timing is off. We've set it to TDC and rotor is hitting #1 plug at the same time. But we seem to think it could be on the exaust stroke instead of the compression. Any thoughts?

 

I think Xjtrailrider is on the money of what i mean. I think its 180 degrees off.
And if it is then how do you change the timing?

 

Okay, I think I may be able to help.

Take out #1 cylinder spark plug. Hold your finger over the spark plug hole while someone turns the crank over with a 19mm socket on a breaker bar from under the vehicle. When you feel compression on your finger, identify the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and keep turning the crank until it's at 0* as indicated by the gauge on the timing chain cover.

With the #1 piston at TDC of compression stroke (and HB mark lined up with 0* on the cover), take off the distributor cap, remove the rotor and the cam positioning sensor. Under the CPS you should see a off-white disk with a metal piece attached to it. In the off- white piece will be some holes (about 3/16" in dia). The metal piece is attached perpendicular to the off-white disk and near one end of the metal piece is a hole in the disk- this is your alignment hole for the 4.0L engine. This hole should line up perfectly with a hole below it in the actual distributor body. Take a 3/16" drift and insert it into the hole and verify it pokes out the bottom of the distributor. If it does, reinstall the CPS, pop the rotor back on, mark the outside of the distributor body to note the center of the rotor, reinstall the cap. #1 spark plug wire will attach to the post counter-clockwise from the mark you made- follow proper firing order from there.

If the hole in the CPS does not line up with the distributor, pull the distriburot out, put a drift pin in the CPS through the distributor. This will hold the CPS and rotor position in place while you reinstall the distributor, which you will do next. Try to get the mounting tang of the distributor to line up with the mounting hole in the engine. Once you've done this you can follow the instruction above and hook everything back up.

Start the engine.

 

Thanks for the detailed instructions! Ill be sure to try that when i get a warm day. But ill definately look into it and let everyone know.

My only question about that would be that I have seen when I previously placed it at TDC the rotor was directly on the #1 plug. So would that not mean it was firing then as well?

 

So we did exactly that yesterday. To the t because we already took the distributor a few weeks ago.

But we came across a weird problem with get the distributor to line up with mounting tab hole. We either had to put it about 6 to 9 degrees before DC for it to line up. Well we put it before thinking it might be like old the old way where putting the timing early would go you more power and putting it slower that it would start easy. So we put it early and tried to start it but nothing. So we're going to try it slow today.

Could the timing chain have slipped and caused it to be one link off causing the hole not to line up?

And Cherockee I just reread what you said and when you say put the #1 wire counter clockwise of the rotor mark do you mean the plug before to mark we put?

 

If you use the pin to hold the cam sensor ring (and this will also hold the distributor shaft) in place you can put the distributor in any position into the block. Just remember that once you reinstall the rotor it will be pointing just past where the #1 spark plug wire attaches. I know that sounds wrong but it works. Be sure to follow the firing order embosed on the intake manifold of the '99 (I hope you're using the 99+ intake!)

And keep in mind, if you have the pin installed while you install the distributor the spark and fuel injectors will be timed correctly. If there was an aftermarket cam installed then it's possible that the mounting tab on the distributor will not line up. It's also possible that if the HB is a cheap China made one that it might not have the TDC mark in the right place- thats why I like to verify it with the spark plug out of #1 cylinder.

 

That's what we noticed when we did it the first time was that the rotor was just barely past the pin in the distributor for the #1 plug. So we tried to fix it to get it right in it haha. And I'm using the '96 intake but its the same firing order as my '99 and same design.

And there was no after market installed so that's no it. But we've got the plug out and made sure the piston is at the top of the compression stroke.

We'll try that though lol. And ill let you know.

 

The '96 must of had an upgraded intake or it's not actually a '99. They were two completely different designs. If this is a '99 vehicle I would definately make sure i was using a '99+ intake.

And correct, don't try to "fix" the rotor position. Let the alignment pin take care of it. If the distributor mounting doesn't line up then just put it in a different position and make sure the mounting bracket still holds down the distributor.

 

I think the highout put models did. But this one isn't an HO.

But when it stops raining down here which should be tomorrow ill check back in.

 

FYI, all 91 up 4.0 are HO, 97+ they just dropped the High Output decal.

 

Engines have different VINs.
they have different ignition systems:
in 99 computer runs spark between 3 coils in one rail
96 has distributor.
Now you have to install ign coil and crank sensor from 99 and maybe something else or install computer from 06.
I would begin by getting 2 diagrams and finding differences. Fuel injectors are different.
go to autozone.com and find out if sensors are different.
It is a lot of work.
99 engine has VIN "S"
Good luck.

 

I didn't know they dropped it so thanks.

And only the '00 and up are distributor less. My 2 door '99 has one. And already tried the '96 computer. That's a definite no. None of the gauges worked. Thank god I have a friend that works at an auto parts store and allowed me to return it secretly haha. And injectors shouldn't matter because we know its getting fuel. Its the spark issue for sure. And crank sensor is also the same. Already pulled it out and checked it ,which is a *****. Exact same as the '96.

But I'm trying Cherockee's idea tomorrow cause I don't have the money to dump into it.

 

So it didn't work. Beginning to have thoughts of scrapping.