98 ZJ NP242 into 2000 Cherokee with NP231
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Marion, Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ive searched all this but I havent quite come across anyone using the tcase out of a ZJ I can get one for a decent price and am wondering if the factory XJ driveshafts should work? Not sure if the ZJ used the same style slip yoke in the rear? If this is not possible I can try and find an XJ case But basically the donor vehicle is a 98 ZJ I'm wanting to convert my XJ to selectrac.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Should work fine.
Crawl under your jeep, remove rear DS, count the splines, measure
Check out the NP242 for sale, count the splines, measure
I can't remember if there's a length difference between the NP231 and NP242. That may pose a problem if the NP242 is longer and your rear springs are sagging (cause the slip yoke to bottom out)
Don't forget you'll need more than just the transfer case to make the swap work properly. The shift gate, bezel, and linkage are different.
Crawl under your jeep, remove rear DS, count the splines, measure
Check out the NP242 for sale, count the splines, measure
I can't remember if there's a length difference between the NP231 and NP242. That may pose a problem if the NP242 is longer and your rear springs are sagging (cause the slip yoke to bottom out)
Don't forget you'll need more than just the transfer case to make the swap work properly. The shift gate, bezel, and linkage are different.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 54
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From: Marion, Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the help the other thing I'm wondering is if the input would be different from the Zj being I believe they run the 42 re and the xj has the aw4 I swear I seen something on novak conversions the 42 re uses a strange input?
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yup, you can swap the input gears over when you do the basic rebuild
CF Veteran


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
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From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
98 ZJ and 00 XJ will be a direct swap, both 23 spline with .840" input lengths.
As mentioned you'll need the 242 shift gate and bezel.. but I think the linkage is the same.
As mentioned you'll need the 242 shift gate and bezel.. but I think the linkage is the same.
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Thanks, wasn't sure on the input gears.
Linkage is a little longer on the NP242 as the arm travels further for the extra position. It's like 3/4" or something.
Linkage is a little longer on the NP242 as the arm travels further for the extra position. It's like 3/4" or something.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 54
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From: Marion, Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So with that said about the linkage will the linkage from my command trac setup be alright or do i need to steal the linkage from the cherokee I'm getting the bezel and plate from?
CF Veteran


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 6
From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Grab the linkage from the donor rig.. and compare it. Then you'll be able to complete the install and confirm whether the linkage was the same or not...
The shifter and bezel assembly will need to be sourced from an XJ..
The shifter and bezel assembly will need to be sourced from an XJ..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 54
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From: Marion, Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I wanted to update this for anyone's future reference the 98 zj 242 case was a direct swap in fit prefect. I got the wiring, linkage, and bezel from a 98 cherokee I did need the linkage to be able to get the 242 into 2wd, the 231 linkage was not long enough. As for making the full-time indicator lights work it was a piece of cake with the extra harness from the selectrac cherokee. What I did was gutted the selectrac connector put it in my 231 harness and overall ended up with a very factory looking plug and play harness no splicing needed. If you've never gutted the factory electrical connectors I recommend experimenting with a junk one. Here's pictures the purple wire is the one I added in and I believe it actually spliced into the black/white striped wire.
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