Its a black wire with a red stripe.

 

Don't know where that wire look comes from or goes to. But I can say I've had my first auto repair casualty. A burn on my arm

 

This is good. If you have never used this stuff before, it can be a little overwhelming. We will get you there.

You'll notice the main table of contents, go to the system that you're needing to work on. At the start of each "chapter" it will show a table of contents for that section. Scroll down to the area in that chapter you're looking for. Start reading. Sometimes, it will refer you to another section to remove certain components that are in the way. You need to be able to learn to cross-reference in the manual...the nice thing about the PDF file is you can print only the sections you need...without having to flip back and forth. I print sections out all the time, haha.

As for using a mutlimeter...you need to have at least a basic electrical knowledge, look for youtube videos on how to use a meter, that should get you started. You need to be able to know what settings to put the meter on, how to test for continuity, how to use probes, etc....when probing, you need to put the leads on the conductor, either on the wire strands themselves, or at the connector pins.

As for your old man...tell him you'll never learn unless you try. Let him know you have an entire community backing you up and are willing to help. Also relay the fact that doing this stuff will not only give you the knowledge of your vehicle from front to back, but can save your butt someday on the road, and once learned, will cost FAR less than taking it to a mechanic...and give you a pride of ownership few people have nowadays.

Once he sees you are doing things the right way, and starting to make progress, he'll change his tune. Probably will start asking you to work on HIS car, LOL

 

What a great response.

Definitely take advantage of youtube for tutorials. Be systematic and document results/readings as roninofako stated earlier for later reference.

Remember to check the TPS also.

 

Thanks, and it's the truth.

Just realize, troubleshooting/diagnostics is what make a mechanic. Even an amateur one. Anyone can turn a wrench and replace parts. What separates the men from the boys is being able to track down what the root cause is. It takes patience, dedication, thoroughness, patience, time, patience, a good shrink, patience, and...well you get the idea, haha

That said, even the best of the best get stumped. I've known life-long mechanics that have said just when you think you've seen it all, and think, nah, that's impossible...Murphy has a way of rearing his ugly head. Just accept that, try your damnedest, give it hell, and when you hit a roadblock, come and ask the question.

 

Ok now you look like this guy
Late comer to the discussion here, but breaking up at higher RPM's has always been a sign of secondary ignition failure. How about switching in a used coil? my 2 cents

 

First off, your link didn't work. Second off, don't muddy the waters. We're trying to get him on the right track here, not throw unknown variables at it in hopes of a miraculous cure.

One step at a time. He's young, new to this, and needs solid help.

 

All yours. Didn't know it was a closed thread. I wont mess with you again. My bad.

 

Were you messing with me?

Regardless, he is new to this, let's get him on the right path, not jump to conclusions, throw unbacked info out, and confuse the situation. I say we get him in the right mode to troubleshoot properly. That's all.

Trust me, if I wanted this thing closed, it would be.

 

I wossed out i took it to my Works mechanic just for diagnosis and I feel like an idiot it was super simple a transmission line was leaking enough fluid to the point that it was so low it was slipping when it got too warm he found the leak fixed the leak topped it up and it seems to be fine but we won't know until I go to work tomorrow

 

Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

In this case, I'm sure we would have gotten there eventually by tracking down and eliminating your codes on a one by one basis, but I get that you felt overwhelmed by it, and need your ride for work. So don't kick yourself too hard. Also sounds like you know a good mechanic, so that's a bonus.

Now that you have a service manual though, you can start using it by doing basic maintenance items as they arise. Win=win.

 

Well...mea culpa: I'm old enough and know better; fluid level should have been questioned up front.

You may want to consider making a daily routine of checking the vehicle over, especially fluids.

Keep us updated on codes. Obviously the fuel pump code is unrelated to the trans codes.

 

Yeah, but you know that's where we would have gone next, right? Fluid level and condition...we just chose to focus on the fuel code first...which we pretty much all but eliminated, short of a DMM probeout. He had stated he had good pressure, and it was holding. So sounds like your problem there is going to be a faulty sensor, which is part of the pump module...so, you already know of one problem that needs to be addressed, eventually. It's more of an annoyance right now than anything, as your pump seems to be holding up.

If it's throwing a code, though, you'll have to address that before your emissions test in CO. They will fail you for a CEL. My advice there is hold off until it's a bigger issue, or you need to do it to pass emissions.

Keep us updated on your situation!

 

My dad's XJ (A 95) has it's CEL on and passes.

 

Where do you live in CO?

I used to live in Aurora...and trust me, a CEL=automatic fail. Not every county has testing out there, though.