97 xj tranny 2-3 solenoid
#4
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Central AZ desert
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Re: 97 xj tranny
Shift solenoids are internal in the trans case.
I've got the same Jeep as you, had the same code/problems three (+or-) years ago.
Hadn't had the Jeep too long, so took it to a trans shop for a looksee. They found the valve body kinda varnished up (usually heating problems, could be total lack of maintenance too) and all shift solenoids showing blistered coating, bulging. (heat) Yes, the parts they showed me were out of my trans, I watched them come out.
They did a complete rebuild and all was wonderful, until a couple weeks ago.
Trans is shifting at random times, sliding into gear, and feels like it isn't locking up completely. Personally I think the AW-4 is junk from the factory, but a couple gents here tell me otherwise, so possibly I got a less than satisfactory rebuild. I looked into replacing it with a 700R4, but the cost of that was prohibitive for a retiree, or at least for THIS retiree. Will probably check out a different shop this time, and do another rebuild. BTW, no codes this time.
Hopefully your experience will be less costly and more pleasant.
HTH.
Bob
I've got the same Jeep as you, had the same code/problems three (+or-) years ago.
Hadn't had the Jeep too long, so took it to a trans shop for a looksee. They found the valve body kinda varnished up (usually heating problems, could be total lack of maintenance too) and all shift solenoids showing blistered coating, bulging. (heat) Yes, the parts they showed me were out of my trans, I watched them come out.
They did a complete rebuild and all was wonderful, until a couple weeks ago.
Trans is shifting at random times, sliding into gear, and feels like it isn't locking up completely. Personally I think the AW-4 is junk from the factory, but a couple gents here tell me otherwise, so possibly I got a less than satisfactory rebuild. I looked into replacing it with a 700R4, but the cost of that was prohibitive for a retiree, or at least for THIS retiree. Will probably check out a different shop this time, and do another rebuild. BTW, no codes this time.
Hopefully your experience will be less costly and more pleasant.
HTH.
Bob
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes
on
67 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The first step in diagnosing AW4 troubles is to check the trans fluid level when it is up to operating temp. It should be at or near the MAX line on the dipstick.
Next is to look at and sniff the trans fluid. Dab some fluid off the dipstick on to a white paper towl. If it appears black the fluid is overdue change. Sniff the fluid on the dipstick, if it smell burnt, there is problem internally to the trans. In either case, the fluid should be replaced (from the trans oil pan drain).
The proper fluid to use is Dexron III/Mercon. Do not use ATF+4.
If you want to test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistances, let me know and I will post the TCM connector pinout and test procedures. These tests require the use of a quality digital volt/ohmmeter.
Next is to look at and sniff the trans fluid. Dab some fluid off the dipstick on to a white paper towl. If it appears black the fluid is overdue change. Sniff the fluid on the dipstick, if it smell burnt, there is problem internally to the trans. In either case, the fluid should be replaced (from the trans oil pan drain).
The proper fluid to use is Dexron III/Mercon. Do not use ATF+4.
If you want to test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistances, let me know and I will post the TCM connector pinout and test procedures. These tests require the use of a quality digital volt/ohmmeter.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
The first step in diagnosing AW4 troubles is to check the trans fluid level when it is up to operating temp. It should be at or near the MAX line on the dipstick.
Next is to look at and sniff the trans fluid. Dab some fluid off the dipstick on to a white paper towl. If it appears black the fluid is overdue change. Sniff the fluid on the dipstick, if it smell burnt, there is problem internally to the trans. In either case, the fluid should be replaced (from the trans oil pan drain).
The proper fluid to use is Dexron III/Mercon. Do not use ATF+4.
If you want to test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistances, let me know and I will post the TCM connector pinout and test procedures. These tests require the use of a quality digital volt/ohmmeter.
Next is to look at and sniff the trans fluid. Dab some fluid off the dipstick on to a white paper towl. If it appears black the fluid is overdue change. Sniff the fluid on the dipstick, if it smell burnt, there is problem internally to the trans. In either case, the fluid should be replaced (from the trans oil pan drain).
The proper fluid to use is Dexron III/Mercon. Do not use ATF+4.
If you want to test the TCM inputs, including the solenoid resistances, let me know and I will post the TCM connector pinout and test procedures. These tests require the use of a quality digital volt/ohmmeter.
I will need to check the TCM inputs. I've already changed the fluid because it was dark and old. I never smelt it so I don know on that. Thanks
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Iroquois Ontario Canada
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I will save CCKen some time and just give you a link to the test you will need to do.
This post will give you all the tests you need to diagnose your transmission. CCK helped me out a lot so the least I can do is save him a little typing
This post will give you all the tests you need to diagnose your transmission. CCK helped me out a lot so the least I can do is save him a little typing
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Thanks for the info but I'm not sure which solenoid a,b or c is the 2-3. Do you know? I don't have any testers so l need to run out and get some. Also my transmission shifts fine for about the first 15-20min of driving the. After that it won't down shift. Are you leaning more TCM or solenoid after that last bit of info.
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes
on
67 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I will save CCKen some time and just give you a link to the test you will need to do.
This post will give you all the tests you need to diagnose your transmission. CCK helped me out a lot so the least I can do is save him a little typing
This post will give you all the tests you need to diagnose your transmission. CCK helped me out a lot so the least I can do is save him a little typing
I've improved (?) upon the pinout and test procedures a bit to include the '97 AW4.
Jlewis,
You are interested in the Specific Resistance Checks 2.5., 6., and 7.
Solenoid A is the 1-2/3-4 Solenoid.
You have to do the Preliminary Resistnce Checks Steps in addition to the Specific Checks.
You need a couple of safety pins to probe the small pin cavities in the TCM connector. The pic below shows three different sizes. The #1 or #2 size is what you'll need. Get them at a fabric store or the hardware in a variety pack.
The pic below the pins is an example of probing pin cavities.
See below.
Pins:
Exmple:
.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes
on
67 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No, but Home Depot and Lowe's has a selection.
I bought an "Ideal" model 61-310 at Home Depot several years ago but I don't think they have this model anymore. I paid around $30 for it.
If you get one in the $30-$40 range it should be suitable.
Don't get the cheap communist chinese meters from Harbor Freight.
Pic of my meter doing a check on the IAT Sensor.
I bought an "Ideal" model 61-310 at Home Depot several years ago but I don't think they have this model anymore. I paid around $30 for it.
If you get one in the $30-$40 range it should be suitable.
Don't get the cheap communist chinese meters from Harbor Freight.
Pic of my meter doing a check on the IAT Sensor.
Last edited by CCKen; 01-16-2015 at 07:11 PM.