I just picked up a 2000 XJ with a bad motor and can get a 97 4.0 from XJ cheap. I read up about swapping sensors, exhaust adapter, using the 2000 intake, flywheel, etc. I can fab up coil pack mounts but my biggest question is about the distributor in the 97. Does it just get removed and make a plug for the hole? Thanks for any input.

Having researched this a little you will take the oil pump drive and the cam shaft sensor from your Jeep and put it in the engine from the '97.
But pretty sure there is a procedure for this. Not just sticking it in there. LOL.
So you will need to research this.
IMO this would be the perfect time to do the Viper Coil Mod.

https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store...il_Mod_.html#/

I believe you'll need the 2000 flexplate on it also since the windows for crank timing are different. Remember the cam sensor only controls injector timing, not ignition. Bring the engine to TDC compression. Easy to do with the manifolds off so you can verify both valves are closed by looking down the valve ports. Remove the sensor from the top of the drive and install an indexing pin thru the holes in the rotor and case. Install the drive housing pointing directly at the 9:00 o'clock position and lock it down. The computer will adjust the injector timing to a certain extent, but it should be finalized with a scanner after startup, exact procedure isn't clear to me, but is a simple + or - reading that should be zero.

The 2000-2001 4.0's use the waste spark system in which 2 plugs fire every revolution, one on compression and one on exhaust. The flexplate has a master window on #1 so the computer knows which cylinder it is.

Thanks for the input guys. Luckily I have everything to swap over. Ive only ever had non coilpack 4.0's so this is new to me.

The block is not the issue...its the head..are you going to use the 97 head? The 2000 exhaust if its a 2 piece will not match up. Your 2000 uses a coil rail? You will need to find a way to secure it....or you can do the coil rail eliminator mod..its probably easier than trying to modify the coil rail. Your 2000 head will bolt up directly to the 97 block. The cam syncronizer bolts directly in place of your distributor. They make an alignment tool which is a cap with a slot and pointer. You take the cover off the cam syncro and drop in the tool...only fits one way. Set nbr 1 cyl to tdc on compression, not exhaust...drop the syncro in the hole so the arrow points as best to directly back as you can get it then rotate syncro until the arrow does point directly back and lock it down..you need a several thousand dollar scanner to adjust to absolute 0 an obd code reader will not do it....no worry if your within ballpark you will never know difference. You must use your 2000 flexplate