96 SE XJ general question
#1
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96 SE XJ general question
Do all xj's have the same wiring harnesses? So I have an SE which is the most basic of them all. It has cruise and AC but that is it.
So if I bought a gauge cluster with full gauges, would the wires be there or would I have to chase them down?
What if I bought an earlier year '92 digital clock, would the wires be there?
and how about the sound bar! I bought one and want to install it, is the harness all the way in the back to make this work?
So if I bought a gauge cluster with full gauges, would the wires be there or would I have to chase them down?
What if I bought an earlier year '92 digital clock, would the wires be there?
and how about the sound bar! I bought one and want to install it, is the harness all the way in the back to make this work?
#2
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The harness for the sound bar should be there.
A clock from a '92 should work, but the plug may be different. Not sure there. You can certainly make it work.
The guage cluster will work, but you will need to swap the oil pressure and coolant temp "switches" with "sending units", or the guages will stay pegged out all the time.
A clock from a '92 should work, but the plug may be different. Not sure there. You can certainly make it work.
The guage cluster will work, but you will need to swap the oil pressure and coolant temp "switches" with "sending units", or the guages will stay pegged out all the time.
#3
My 95 SE was in much the same boat.
Gauge cluster was plug-and-play with the swaps mentioned above.
Soundbar wiring harnass was NOT present; I had to run the wires myself. I had already pulled down the headliner to install a luggage rack and overhead console, and it wasn't hiding anywhere I'd expect.
I installed a clock from another year (don't remember which) and again, the harnass was NOT present. It was an easy enough one to make, though. I cut the mating harnass from the donor Jeep and spliced on new wires to the right spots. The clocks are different year-to-year as some changes were made. Mine was very basic; two ground wires, always-on +12V, and ACC. I just spliced them to the corresponding radio wires nearby.
Gauge cluster was plug-and-play with the swaps mentioned above.
Soundbar wiring harnass was NOT present; I had to run the wires myself. I had already pulled down the headliner to install a luggage rack and overhead console, and it wasn't hiding anywhere I'd expect.
I installed a clock from another year (don't remember which) and again, the harnass was NOT present. It was an easy enough one to make, though. I cut the mating harnass from the donor Jeep and spliced on new wires to the right spots. The clocks are different year-to-year as some changes were made. Mine was very basic; two ground wires, always-on +12V, and ACC. I just spliced them to the corresponding radio wires nearby.
#4
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I figured that would be the deal. I should probably get the sending units from the gauge cluster vehicle I am taking it from.
When I was in the dash I noticed wiring saying "rear speaker right and left". Does that wiring run along the bottom or along the top near frame rail? If I can find it in the rear then I should be able to use that to wire the sound bar, right?
Also, I run a disconnect switch for security reasons. Can I run my radio so that it has power all the time and without killing my battery?
When I was in the dash I noticed wiring saying "rear speaker right and left". Does that wiring run along the bottom or along the top near frame rail? If I can find it in the rear then I should be able to use that to wire the sound bar, right?
Also, I run a disconnect switch for security reasons. Can I run my radio so that it has power all the time and without killing my battery?
#5
I also had the speaker wires in the dash, but I never found out where they went. They didn't terminate in the rear hatch, nor did I see any cables in the top rail.
Since I was already installing an overhead console, I had already taken out the headliner and passenger side trim down to the kick panel in order to run the console harnass. I simply ran some speaker wire (and lamp wires) up with them and back along the passenger side trim.
I suppose you could hook your radio up using two always on wires - that's a pretty easy way, but if you forget it, it'll eventually drain your battery. I have no idea what the idle current draw on a dash stereo is. It shouldn't be much, especially if it's turned off or in standby, but I've never really worried about it.
A better solution would be to add a relay on the ACC line going to the radio and control it with another switch. When the switch is "off" the radio could power up like normal, but when the switch is "on", it is in an always-on mode. If you're really industrious, you could even make a simple relay override circuit that could the radio off automatically if the battery runs too low. I'd use a relay that had two positions, so that the always-on mode didn't power everything on the ACC line.
Since I was already installing an overhead console, I had already taken out the headliner and passenger side trim down to the kick panel in order to run the console harnass. I simply ran some speaker wire (and lamp wires) up with them and back along the passenger side trim.
I suppose you could hook your radio up using two always on wires - that's a pretty easy way, but if you forget it, it'll eventually drain your battery. I have no idea what the idle current draw on a dash stereo is. It shouldn't be much, especially if it's turned off or in standby, but I've never really worried about it.
A better solution would be to add a relay on the ACC line going to the radio and control it with another switch. When the switch is "off" the radio could power up like normal, but when the switch is "on", it is in an always-on mode. If you're really industrious, you could even make a simple relay override circuit that could the radio off automatically if the battery runs too low. I'd use a relay that had two positions, so that the always-on mode didn't power everything on the ACC line.
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