Why don't we start from the beginning.
1) What year vehicle (all factory stock, mods, mix-master)?
2) Has this vehicle had any maintanence? if so what & when.

 

96, I6 , stock, within the last month - oil & filter, air filter, plugs & wires, coolant flush & fill

 

Any idea what the fuel pressure is?

 

No

 

First thing to check. Do a search for specs & replacement if warranted.

 

OK, seems we almost went apples to oranges here. If your header pipe bolts are not seized, it's pretty easy to loosen them and run it like that, see if your PERFORMANCE issues go away. Worked great for me once to diagnose a clogged cat. Night and day, relieving the constriction. You might Google "Vacuum test for restricted exhaust". The gauge should be pretty cheap, or borrow or rent one. I think Cruiser has something on that you can find in my signature. (Renix stuff). Just something to rule out...that has, and does happen.

 

Would that cause it to not be able to run for 20 mins?

 

...........maybe. bump

 

The last few days here have been cooler and guess what?...no problems at idle. So now I'm sure that it's a temperature issue. I guess I'll start with wrapping the injectors & go from there. I also have a leaking water pump. When it rains, it pours.

 

Will a 96 throw a code if the IAT sensor is shot?

Here is some code stuff. At which year the "key trick" is hopeless..Idk!
One poster thought some 97's might....

OBD1 Models: 1991-1995
1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).
2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.
3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost. Code 55 indicates end of fault code display.


You can try this. I hear sometime in 97 it no longer works.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.

1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)

1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)

1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.

 

not sure if i am smelling cleaner on engine .. but it stinks .. seller said he cleaned motor compart. prior to my buy


I cant even describe my smell .. stinks bad when hot



from what i've seen / interrogated seller

minor rusty coated coolant tubing

= why a blown water pump from his seller after supposadly new water pump from shelf .. probbly rusty gunk killed it ?

.. flushed it .. pump went bad again .. flushed again

hoping its just rusty coolant burnign off .. new h20 pump is fine, no leaks .. checked daily

 

when i was young we had a dodge minivan that had a problem with the fuel pump if it was over 70 degrees you could only drive it for short runs. it would run for 20-30 minutes then start running like crap and die and it would leave you sitting on the side of the road for 20 minutes then you could start it back up and drive it more. under 70 degrees it would run almost all day. Ended up being the fuel pump.

 

 

Soooo, it wasn't heat. On the coldest day we had it gave me the same problems, but twice in a row. Turns out it was the fuel pump. It completely went out. Swapped it with my 95's pump & it runs like a champ. Twice since it has tried to die at idle, but slowly giving it gas until rpm's increased fixed it. There's still something wrong, but no where near as bad. I need a full diagnosis but $90 an hour is a bit rough right now. A buddy is getting set up to do it & is only gonna charge $50, so I'll live with it until then.

 

My smell is GONE !! it was the rad & heater core / cooking ! .. rad slightly clogged, core was very clogged

inside cab & engine compart. had serious smell with hot engine .. full cooling flush, new rad, core flushed good .. smelling way better, very happy


another note: about a month ago, '08 ford ranger (work truck) .. I was at coors brewery .. all of sudden it smelled like a metal recycling yard / rendering plant .. 1st thought their Cannery was recycling or something

then I stopped for lunch .. battery was toast ! acid was seeping up thru both terminals / boiling into powdery mounds, mini sand castles around terms .. that was horrid to replace .. got that crap all over me

now that trucks fine with a brand new Nascar Green Interstate battery .. thats what i have in my XJ .. the ford had a motorcraft in it .. junk ... started leaking acid within a year of brand new truck .. the (+) term clamp is so eaten up / corroded away .. like 1/2 of it left, gets tight enough for now .. seems they made the battery connect .. metal L elbow to cable .. cant just replace the clamp, cables not long enough .. would have to buy entire cable thru dealer $100 .. unless someone knows where to get that L piece, I cant find it