frado2jr

Hi I keep posting but i cannot not find the issue maybe one of you can help. My 95 xj keeps cranks but will not turn over. The issue start a month after i got it. One day after i disconnected the battery for a few days to weld my seat it ouldent crank. Me and my dad sat around for 20 min trying to crank and it worked. Drove for 2 days did the same thing so I changed the negaive cable . still would crank but we got it going. change the pos terminal because it was corroded test the battery it was good. Still wouldn't start after the cables untill about 20 min later. It would kind of turn over but evendilty it turned.

3 weeks later i was warming up my jeep and the idle was low. It always jump about 200 rpms but it never really went past 1000 while dileing. It kind of die then pick up easily. After about 5 min it would strighent mostly. Then I had to move it while it was idling and it died. But it started back up gave it some gas worked out fine.

then about 3 days ago it wouldn't start. Juts like before i turned the key nothing. My lil bro gave me a jump then only clicks. Got the battery tested and it was at 100%. Tested it twice. when we put the batter back it would crank and even kind of turn over but no start. My dad looks at it played with a few things and hooks a non running batter up to the TRUCK. After about 20 min it started and a whole bunch of black smoke came out and the idle even. Drove it about a mile and it was fine. Started back up after it was off and turn over pefectly.

The next day nothing.

It cranked once through out a bunch of black smoke then **** off. Now it will only crank. Checked the CEL code by turning the switch and it gave a 12* and 14* so I changed the Map sesnor and now no crank. It feels like its close. We hook the batterY to a charger and let it sit. Kept trying to crank but nothing the whole day. I dont have a fuel check gaguge so I just pressed the fuel release. Fuel shot out. If the smoke is balc thats means its rich so rule out fuel pump?

I'm really lost I cant change the TPS my self because the troix bit are so tight and im afraid ill strip the heads. it has gas im sure of it unless the meter is wrong. wont stall or sputter while driving but horrible gas mileage(even for a 3 inch lift) with in about 3 days i can use over a half a tank(rough maybe 75 miles top) I figure maybe the power going out a loose cable. it always comes back on.

I jutst dont ant to keep throwing parts im a LAW STUDENT SO IM BROKE. aNY SUGGESTION BEFORE i GIVE IT TO THE SHOP. rEALLY DONT WANT TO HAND OVER MY EDICATION BONUS JUST TO KEEP MY JEEP FIXED

Roler

a law student....you might want to work on the spelling there
But on topic: Mate, that's a lot of info that should be summarised l ike:
initially intermittent starting with crank-no start , now ended up being no crank- no start.

Do I understand this as being the problem now?

Firestorm500

Powertrain Control Module?

Check for adequate spark at the plugs, rotor, distributor, all battery cables, grounds.

If your welder wan't properly grounded you might have fried something. I seem to vaguely recall a post like this a couple of years ago.

frado2jr

No it started with no crank with dash off now its crank no start I doodle with the battery cable and it came back just dont know which one but now no crank


(is it cheating to say I relay on spell check)😄

frado2jr

What is a powertrain control module I changed plugs rotor distrusted cap and neg cable didn't do starter I'm not sure about the other wires from the starter

Roler

"relay on spell check"....dear Lord....not sure if you want to trust that spell check lol.

I have trouble getting the issue, it might be me, after my night shifts,...I'll leave it for somebody else.

Cherockee

I'm having the same trouble understanding this also.

Terms to understand for the OP:
Crank= means the starter will crank the engine over and will attempt to start the engine.
Turns over= Same as crank
Will not turn over= will not crank
Won't start= engine cranks but will not run


If an engine started without being cranked you have some serious trouble there. Let's start over. Edit your original post using the descriptions above to better explain what is going on. Has there been any engine work done to the Jeep? Maybe check for vacuum leaks (hoses and such).

Check the wiring at the starter motor too. Be sure the ground wires on the engine block are secure and tight.

Report back here when you've done all of these things.

perez1989

Check for spark at the spark plus wires. If spark then your fuel pump is bad. If no spark crank sensor is bad.

frado2jr

sorry about that........ I can get it to crank but it will not start thats alll it does check the battery cables there all good. Neg is fine positive works. It sounds like she really wants to start. I'm changing the CPS today ill let you uys know

frado2jr

Update. I changed the Crank**** sensor still no start. my dad told me he tested for spark and he said its there. the spark plugs were filthy and black (Changed them about 1500 miles) i cleaned them and drying them now and will put them in in the morning. Any more ideas It will crank but still wont start

Cherockee

Once you know you have spark you need to make sure you have fuel. If you have fuel pressure (listen for the pump to run and check at the valve on the fuel rail), then you need to check to see if you have signal to the fuel injectors. If there is no signal that usually means the CPS is bad.

frado2jr

I'm sure I do I can hear the pump and the release valve shoots out gas and when it cranks u can smell it


Should not I use to smell gas from the exhaust the spark plugs also smelt like fuel (I thank God it didn't smell like oil)


Cps was changed ill let u know tomorrow if it starts after the spark plug are dry

DFlintstone

If it has spark, and compression (and something is not really jacked up), two things, lack of fuel, or flooded will keep it from firing. Holding the petal on the floor cuts off injector pulse on Renix...might be the same for 95. If lack of fuel were suspect, a bit of quick start would answer that question.

Note that the books and diagrams are wrong. #1 is at 5;00 as viewed from the side, 153624, clockwise.

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). A very important little tube, that!

frado2jr

The tape is in good shape still stiff no holes or crack the code it threw was for voltage on the MAP I change it cuz I didn't have a volt meter the code is now off. Lole I said when I got it it had a rough ideal but it ran perfectly it even had get up when I needed it would just ideal a nit rough


If the plugs were foul and I can smell gas could it just been MAP dumping to much? Do I have to hold down the pedal when I put the plugs back in tomorrow? I'm assuming if its flooded and the spark plugs are clean it should start from my research its not a remix but how do I know if it is

DFlintstone

What branch of law? Who do you intent to represent? Is English your first language?

I wouldn't hold the pedal down while installing the plugs. Renix is 87 to 90, but some of the business is the same on the later...I just can't say for sure, but it would make sense if they left the ability for you to "clear it's throat" that way.

Guess I might just turn the key, crank it and see if it fires OK. If it sputters or acts weird, try holding it floorboarded and see if that helps. If so we learned something and can take it from there.