Mike10

Ok so I’ve read all the write ups I could on this issue and can’t find the solution to why my Cherokee won’t start. So the thing cranks but will not start. I changed the CPS, Camshaft senor, distributor cap and wires. New spark plugs, a new ignition coil which I’ve replaced twice already because I thought maybe I received a faulty one the first time but still no start with the second one. I’ve also changed my fuel pump thinking that was the issue.... but it was not. I’ve also sprayed starting fluid just to make sure fuel wasn’t the issue and it still didn’t run. So that eliminates fuel. I pulled a plug and checked for spark and I didn’t have any... so now I’m not sure what it could be after already having changed the parts I said above.... if you have any ideas or suggestions I’d appreciate all the help I can get... it’s been siting in the driveway for a week already...... thanks

Mike

BlackXJay

Are the sensors mopar? I've heard of sensors being bad out of the box.

dave1123

Check to see if the ASD relay is pulling in. The ASD relay controls the ignition and fuel injectors. Shotgunning parts can be expensive when it may just be a bad contact in the relay socket.

Mike10

No the parts are not Mopar. They are from autozone and oreillys auto parts. So yea I’m sure they can be faulty. Is there a way to test the camshaft sensor? Or CPs sensor? And I’ll check that ASD relay when I get back home today.
It’s the one inside the relay box under the hood correct?

BlackXJay

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/

PatHenry

Agree with Dave. Dude - stop throwing parts at it!

Test. Test. Test.

Your Jeep is 25 years old - while many of the "parts" may have been changed over the years, the wiring and many of the connectors are 25 years old. That's an awful long time and plenty of chances for stuff to get corroded, dirty, loose, etc.

Your first step in ANY electrical issue is to clean and tighten up the grounds and battery terminals. This should be routine maintenance but is easy to overlook. Then you want to start testing. As Dave mentioned, the ASD relay is pretty important. Clean up the contacts (there are excellent contact/electrical cleaning sprays) and test the relay. The relay itself is cheap enough that you could put a new one on if you so desire.
Next work through and make sure everything is getting the proper signals at the proper time. Properly repair any wiring that you find that is questionable or obviously bad. Clean connectors as you go. More than likely you have something with a chaffed or loose wire if it's not the ASD.

Keep us posted and good luck!

SatiricalHen

You say it cranks, but won't start. What happened to make it not start? Did it just die one day? Did you shut it off and the next day nothing? Did you buy it not running? You need spark, compression, and fuel to run. Do you have compression? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel pressure on the rail? Start with these questions and then we may be able to better understand what is causing the issue.

papablista

I just went through this same situation it was a bad out of the box cheap cam sensor get the Mopar parts , Rockauto had the best price for my 2000 XJ I bought both cam and crank sensor the cam sensor for the 2000 was $53 crank was $82 probably different for yours (cheaper). My old crank sensor was good it is in the glove box for emergency use. From now on when it comes to spark I go Mopar.

Mike10

I’ve owned the Jeep since I purchased it new. This happened about a week ago. And I was driving and it just shutoff... however once I towed it home. I unplugged the camshaft sensor then reconnected it and it turned on but didn’t run too good, so I figured that part must be bad... I went brought a new one and it fired up like nothing.. fast forward a day or so and then it just cut out again. Thinking that it was the camshaft again I just unplugged it again waited a couple seconds then reconnected it and it turned on again... so I then went again and got a new camshaft sensor except now it was having trouble starting and would start after the 4th or 5th attempt at turning the key. A couple days later maybe Wednesday or Thursday it just stopped turning on.
Since I figured it would only start after the 4th or 5th key turn I replaced the fuel pump thinking that it was not sending enough pressure. However that proved to be wrong since it did not turn on....I also changed the CPS as I mentioned above as I know that causes random stalling at times.. I also just checked the autoshut down relay and replaced it... still no start. I’m thinking I’m going to swap out the camshaft sensor again today.. I’ll keep y’all posted with what happens.
Any other suggestions I would still appreciate.

Mike10

I also already mentioned I didn’t have any spark with my first post above.

papablista

Check the wiring sounds like it could be shorting somewhere ,

1. Using the small paper clips, straighten and insert them into the backside of the distributor wiring harness connector. Push the wire in until it stops making sure that you have solid contact with the metal connectors.
2. Connect the red (+) lead to the sensor output wire (terminal #1). Then connect the black (-) lead to the ground wire of the sensor (terminal #2). Set the meter to read DC voltage below 15 volts or so.
3. Remove the distributor cap. Rotate the engine either by hand until the pulse ring enters the magnetic pick-up on the camshaft position sensor. Rotor button should be pointing at about 8:30 – 9:00 o’clock position.
4. Turn the ignition key to the “On” position. You should be reading approximately 5 volts. If you are not getting any voltage, check to make sure the meter leads are getting a good connections. Often times the paper clip can move just enough to loose contact with the internal plug terminals. Once you know that you have a solid connection to the terminal and you still have no voltage, need to check for voltage at the CPS voltage supply wire (terminal #3). No voltage there? Check for voltage at pin 7 at the PCM connector.
5. Crank the engine over by the key. You should see the needle move back and forth from 0 to 5 volts. If you do not get the signal pulse and all wiring checked out fine. Replace the camshaft position sensor.
6. 
   

zmzamarripa

Mike10

Yes I’ve checked for codes but the only ones that show up is 12 and 55. Which is accurate since I did unplug the battery recently to change the ignition coil.
Also I checked and double checked the wires and grounds all around the cam and cPs sensors etc... and they all look how they should... one ground was dirty and full of grease but I cleaned it and still not start.... I also swapped out the cam sensor again today but still no start.. any other ideas?
I haven’t changed the whole distributor yet, would it’s failure cause a no start but crank issue ? If so maybe I should get one ?

gat

I didn't see that you replaced the rotor of the distributor. That would be a good piece to replace to complete your electrical tune up of wearable parts.

How is the state of your battery terminals and wires? I had a similar no start condition that just suddenly occured. When I pulled my wires out I had significant damage from fraying and corrosion. There could also be corrosion under the rubber connection to the terminal connector. At this point completely removing your battery cables would be a simple, easy visual and ohm test.

If you find this to be the problem, then you might be interested in what I did. I replaced my terminal connectors with marine terminals so that I could use the precrimped cables with the same end on both sides. This allowed me to put a small battery cable as my right fender ground directly from the battery with the same low gauge wire (battery cable) as the ground to the engine. I put another black battery cable as the ground from engine to fire panel on the driver's side. It was like $5 for the terminals, $10 per cable and everything was made in U.S.A. at O'Reilly's on the shelves.

The cranking means that the starter is engaging the fly wheel to spin the engine. The positive power goes directly to that component. If you are having an electrical issue in your battery cables, then that would be the component with the most direct access so I'd imagine the least problem.

Mike10

My battery connections looked decent, but I went ahead and took them off the battery and cleaned them up then reconnected them. I also threw on a another rotor Still no start. I again pulled a plug checked for spark and there is none. I am completely puzzled at this point. Any other suggestions?