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92 Cherokee Problems :(

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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Programbo
Is that your feet I see standing on top of the radiator in that last photo?
LMAO
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Programbo
Is that your feet I see standing on top of the radiator in that last photo?
lmao it's my boyfriends I told him to take a pic funny I never noticed them until you said something :laugh:
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:28 PM
  #18  
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Another question: If I didn't get this fixed right away would it cause me to suddenly start losing ALL my oil? I'll put 2 quarts in before I go 80 miles, Drive half of it (to college) stay there for 3 hours come out and have a huge puddle of oil beneath my Jeep. Then I have to put at least 1-2 more in before I head home or I start chugging

I have people that want to buy the Jeep but they keep saying (When I explain what you guys said was wrong) oh its leaking too much oil for it to be that. Then they offer me prices like $450-500 and Im NOT letting my girl go for that when I have a strong feeling even with the leak its worth more then 450

Thanks so much
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #19  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Default OIL LEAK

this tube must be connected to the air box like the second pic shows have you done this yet
Attached Thumbnails 92 Cherokee Problems :(-cimg37231.jpg   92 Cherokee Problems :(-img_0165.jpg  
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #20  
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this hose draws out crancase rpressure when accelerating if it is not connected to the air intake system the pressure will blow out at the weakest link in the vacuum system are you blowing oil out the dip stick tube ?
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #21  
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No, I haven't had the funds to fix the evap canister or the pvc line like they said Ill try re-attaching the line to the box like you showed in the meantime,
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 10:16 PM
  #22  
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also take the line with yellow arrow and make sur its clean spray carb cleaner tru it and make sure both fitting it connect to are clean you might be able to remove the canister and turn up side down and drain the excess oil out and reinstall it doing these thing shoul cure the oil problem unless there are major engine blow by problems. hope this cures you prob with as little cash put out
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #23  
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I rerouted the lines like you showed me, I'm going to need a couple new parts since two are cracked on the lower line I rerouted (the piece connecting the line to the valve) and the line is actually too short on the bottom so they have a piece of squishy material holding it into the black box. I don't know if that's supposed to be there.

The cuppachino colored liquid is all through those two lines. I checked and I am not leaking oil out the dipstick and the top line is blowing clean air but it has oil all through it that dripped out when I first unhooked it but when I turned the Jeep on it blew clean air.

By the way thanks again for helping me. It should be interesting to see me try to drain the canister since Im hoping its easily connected. I looked it up and it looks like a new canister shouldn't cost me too much, so what is the valve they said I might need replacing on my tank? Im just trying to compile a list for when I go see how much the parts will cost.

Im thinking about keeping it and just putting some work into it since I love my Jeep.

Last edited by squirrelgurl07; Dec 11, 2010 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #24  
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yea...those two lines definitely should never have been connected to each other, they are both vacuum inlets. One should go to the evap canister, the other should go to the front of the valve cover. The reason there is fluid leaking from the canister is because the blowby was being routed to the canister, which was never supposed to happen.

So basically, the evap canister is screwed now. You will need to replace it and connect the air lines to the correct locations. It is a sealed, maintenance free item, and cannot be simply "emptied" and reused in this condition. But good news! They are very cheap and simple to replace. There is a clamp holding it in place. Just disconnect the hoses running to it, remove, throw the new one in and reattach...done. Advance Auto sells a replacement one for $22.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._548101609___#

This is for a '95, but yours is very similar


Last edited by dukie564; Dec 11, 2010 at 11:45 AM. Reason: added product link
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #25  
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also, can you see where the oil is leaking out of? By the oil filter? At the rear of the engine by the transmission housing? Out the drain plug? Out of the front of the engine? You'll need to track down the source for us to diagnose what needs repair to fix it.

First step would be to clean the bottom of the engine pretty well getting off as much oil and grime as possible. "simple green" cleaner works great for this, as does a car wash wand. Then take it for a drive, and reinspect to see where it is leaking from. The front-most point where you see wet oil is the source (since the oil will flow backwards as you drive)

Oil filter adapter is a common place for a leak, but yours sounds like it could be more than that, maybe the rear main seal.

If you find the source, and the cause for the issue, the repair will be focused and will cost much less than a blanket "fix my oil leak" repair job, I guarantee it.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #26  
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I can watch it leak straight down near where they re-did my oil filter gasket, it almost look like it broke again but I don't want to take it back into these people again. Our car wash has an engine degreaser setting but do I just soap it up and spray it with water? I'm such a noob.

It drips straight down from where the drain plug is as well. We've watched it leak, and the Pennzoil people who do my oil changes said that as well that it was the oil filter gasket but now I gotta figure out if it blew through another one...why would it be ruining my gaskets? Or would that also be caused from the lines being routed wrong?
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 03:57 PM
  #27  
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yea sounds like they didn't do a good job replacing the oil filter adapter o-rings, maybe they only replaced one of them? (There are 3 total). It will flow from that point to the back of the pan near the drain plug as you drive. Mine has the same leak at the moment, but yours sounds way more severe.
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 01:16 PM
  #28  
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I'll have to check into those o-rings then. My leak has slowed down considerably since I switched the hoses like they told me to on here. Thankfully. I'd rather only have to put 2 quarts in a month (what was happening before my hoses got re-routed) instead of 2 quarts every time I drive.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 03:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by squirrelgurl07
I'll have to check into those o-rings then. My leak has slowed down considerably since I switched the hoses like they told me to on here. Thankfully. I'd rather only have to put 2 quarts in a month (what was happening before my hoses got re-routed) instead of 2 quarts every time I drive.
I know this is old post but im surprised no one asked about blown head gasket milky oil drop in mpg exseseve blow by all seems like it could have been a posabilaty my s10 did all this from a blown head gasket wasnt bad enough to make it not drivable just ran just a lil worse and mpg was maybe 3/6 mgp worse i had one cylender leaking
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