91CherokeeXj

Whats up again everyone...
So im having some trans issues that are concerning me , if you have any first hand experiences with this problem, or have heard of it please let me know..
When i fire the jeep up after sitting overnight, or a couple hours while im working it doesnt want to engage into whatever gear i might be dropping it in, whether its D or R (auto) ill have to wait a good 5-6 seconds then it clunk into gear , but once it drops into drive and i start accelerating it wont up shift until I back off the RPMs for a second and let it catch up to its self. Then its good for the rest of the drive... no slipping or clunking. Fluid level is all good.

foxmxrcer

What's your fluid look like? Pink? Brown? Black? Sounds like your having flow problems, whether it's from dirt or sticky solenoids Is another story.

holycaveman

I would change the filter and oil. If it still does it try adding an extra quart.

foxmxrcer

Depending on fluid condition, changing the fluid could possibility make things worse. And how is adding an extra quart going to help? The only way I see that working is if the pick up in the pan is broken or faulty. Raising the level of atf could be catastrophic if you put to much in.

holycaveman

One quart does not hurt anything. Often times it can help. Changing fluid by doing a triple flush is also good. Filter may be in need of a change.

To the op you drain your pan, fill with new fluid. Drive 10 minutes and repeat. Do this three three times. At least you will have done the service part and have made sure the transmission is charged with fluid and the filter is not a problem. Also you will see if there are any contaminants in the pan.

First things first.

New transmission fluid is a cleaner. If you have any sticky valves there is a good chance the new fluid will help.

foxmxrcer

You didn't answer my question, how can an extra quart help?

Yes, changing your fluid regularly is a good idea, yes atf is a detergent, yes a fluid change can free up sticky solenoids and check valves in the valve body. It can also blast dirt in the valve body farther then the line and completely clog something. But if the band material is worn excessively, doing a fluid change could leave the jeep motionless. One of the things floating around in dirty atf is friction material that has worn off of the bands and clutch packs. If you remove that, you essentially replace a thicker heavier weight oil for a thinner lighter weight thus causing more problems.

Any way you look at it it's a gamble, which is why I was asking OP a few questions to better suggest a solution. What's good for the goose is not always good for the gander.

SteveMongr

Have you tried starting off in '3' then shift to 'D' when up to speed?
Does it still slip and clunk into gear in '3' or '1-2' ?

cruiser54

Do a series of drain and fills with Dex/Merc fluid. Nothing else. The 4 quarts you drain out and replace will not "shock" the trans.

As for the filter, it's not. Just a screen on the AW4.

Do NOT add an extra quart or it will be blowing out the dipstick tube.

Dumajones

Yep ^^^^ just a cheap screen look at post 19 down in this link. No real point to change those filters, a few good drain and fills should do just fine..

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/aw4...198634/index2/

holycaveman

Contaminants do not change the oils viscosity. But they can cause seals to leak. Bands and applied by servos. These servos are pressure related holding pressure by seals. A servo that over extends from a worn out band can break or break a spring. On some transmissions a worn out band can cause the servo lever to actually fall out and cause a lot of damage. All clutch packs are applied by servos with rubber seals. If these seals get a substantial piece of debris in them than can fail to apply. Material from worn out clutches or bands usually do not effect these seals at all. But they can collect in the small screens and in corners of the valve body restricting oil flow. Metal shavings though can cause havoc in a transmission.
Best to drop the pan and check the pan and fluid.

You can do tests to the solenoids. But really all you are doing is testing the copper wire. Many other things can cause the solenoids to fail.

So what we are doing is hoping for a miracle. A loose pice of debris, bad copper wire, etc.... if there is metal or substantial clutch or band material then really the transmission needs rebuilt. The extra quart is a bandaid. It often is the little push than can get you by for a while. It may be the factor that helps push that pesky stuck piece of debris. NEVER have I seen one extra quart hurt a transmission. Besides like I said " if all else fails".

A transmission is not rocket science, but there is a lot that can go wrong.

91CherokeeXj

Thanks for all the help everyone . Ill do some drain and fills / repeat next week.. And check back in. Any one use Pennzoil ATF +4 for chryslers? Is that what I should use, any good or bad experiences or anything you guys reccommend?

91CherokeeXj

and to Foxmxrcer , the fluid was more of a light red/pink and thin

foxmxrcer

If it's still a light pink then I doubt a drain and fill will help. It sounds like someone may have already tried that, or actually took decent care of it. 95% of the transmissions I've seen do not have clean pink fluid if there is a problem with them. I'm hopeful it will help, but like I said I doubt it will. Also, try what Steve said about trying different gears.

holycaveman

If it's an aw4 then any dex/merc is fine.

SteveMongr

I had a 91 and lost 'D' totally. It would just slip and go nowhere. 'R' worked fine also '3' and '1-2' worked fine so I had to shift manually until up to speed, then shift to 'D' and it would catch.
Issue was a maintenance error, caused by using Type F fluid.

Drove it for a year like that.