DFlintstone

Maybe. Was just a thought. Hard to know exactly what HE might notice. It would take a ton of carbon to hold enough valves open to cause a no-start.

Yea, without the cmp sensor just a consistent extra 1/2 a second or so starting. As soon as I get a backhoe to clear a little room in my shop I want to probe those wires myself. Just to suborn to believe a magnet going past a coil doesn't push enough electrons down the wire to measure without seeing it myself.

Well.. then there's this CMP sensor test here; http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...lse_Stator.htm

cruiser54

It's NOT a cam sensor!! Said in my best Arnold Schwarzenneger voice.

DFlintstone

Better?^

cruiser54

Is what better? Even the link calls it a stator.

Slick761

Hahaha it is a stator! I love it I argued that back and forth till it was looked up in the fsm. You call it that and there's no confusion. Most people have never heard it called that though

CPTslackass

Hmm should I say camshaft position sensor, or stator? Who's feathers to ruffle :-P

freegdr

its a hall effect sensor

cruiser54

Stator!!!

apollotrance1

Sorry guys, been busy with family and work.

Ok, I have the distributor set up like this


The motor is turning over, but not starting. After I hold down the key for a few seconds, it begins to start chugging like it will start but nothing. I have replaced the CPS and that did not work.

When I originally purchased it, the Jeep ran like complete crap, but ran. I drove it. The kid originally had the plugs on the right in it. So that is where all the carbon build up came from since they were the wrong plugs and not long enough. After I changed them it wouldn't start back up



I have tried almost everything. I work at Advance Auto so I can get just about any part to try and see if it will work.

DFlintstone

Ok...If the dizy is just one tooth off your screwed. It has an "ear" and can't be turned, right? So the rotor should be almost past the #1 terminal (at 5:00), ("past" of course turning clockwise).

Does it crank pretty well? What does it sound like? I Can you hear the cyl's coming up on compression, or is it more "freewheeling" ?

apollotrance1

No ears on it. The kid I bought it off of had them cut off already, which led me to believe he had this thing all whacked out. The motor cranks great. Has compression, around 120 for each cylinder.

DFlintstone

With it free to spin your problem might be not having a reference point. Try lining up the screws mounting the cap with the the end of the fourth rib (counting out away from the battery), at the front of the valve cover.

Also try it with the Cam sensor. (CMP sensor, stator, sync generator...) un plugged. It just might be getting confusing signals from (it), but has a "default" of some sort to work without it.

DFlintstone

I've got to run. Also make double sure the MAP tube from the rubber plug in the side of the throttle body to the map (up on the firewall), is A1. If it leaks or is plugged, it will run duggy rich and carbon things up.

r.center

i have a similar issue. I drove it a few hundred miles one weekend without skipping a beat. I drive home, next morning.... no start, but I get the occasional chug that you are talking about. Did you find a solution?

DFlintstone

It's late, I didn't re read everything. Consider something nocturnal, like a mouse chewed something. (just happened last month).

If you are 90 or earlier (Renix), there is a simple CPS test. Also ground problems are common I guess.