Amen. I've had so many instances over the last 10 - 15 years of bad "new" or "rebuilt" parts that I lean towards "new" from the most reliable brands I can find, OEM when possible. I'm as frugal as anyone, but I am tired of doing things twice.

 

I have to agree, I have had so much trouble with reman parts over the years that I only use new parts now.

 

I dont know if this will help on the head lamp but on mine a 96 its the metal clip that completes the circuit where the bulb sits its lose and when the Jeep hits bump it moves and the light turns off. As far as the radio on mine it was just the radio. I found a cheap one at walmart on sale with Bluetooth and every thing for 50 the old one kept saying amp error and i rewired every thing like the old on and boom works.

 

let me get in on this i just bough a 1990 Cherokee w/ 47k on it. (it really does i couldn't pay the ol man fast enough)

i replaced:
water pump (new)
themo + housing (drilled 2 holes in it @12 & 6..)
all hoses..
radiator is new

I did a compression test and im perfect all the way across the 6 no wetness no nothing.

The coolant sensor on the electric fan is no good. i know that for a fact but hard wired it with a fuse to turn on and off until the part comes tomorrow just to make sure the E .fan was good

is it possible its still all air related... that closed system is a pain in my a$$ H**e

the fan clutch seems to be good i read to test it you let it run and it should stop spinning within a few secs which it did..(is that test legit)

ive owned 3 of these suckers and 3 96 and up it all started with a plow jeep and figured it out quick these XJs are beasts and a must have in the driveway

any thoughts

 

hopefully someone gets back to me a year later hahaha..

 

I'm sure someone else will necromance this thread again.

Yeah, the closed system can be a bit harder to bleed. Adding those bleeder holes in the thermostat usually helps a lot. You can loosen the temp sensor at the back drivers side of the head to help burp the air out. The cap on the bottle sometimes doesn't hold pressure and it boils over. The aftermarket caps are garbage and won't stay tight. Someone posted a Volvo part number for the cap that seems to work better*. If the radiator needs replacing, you might as well switch over to the "open" style and getting rid of the failure prone plastic surge tank.

*See https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...cap-xj-613128/ says it's a Volvo 940 Turbo, and the part number is 9445462

 

NAPA 703-1396 cap.

 

A 90 with 47,000 miles. Dang. That is incredible. Not many XJ's left under 100,000. I doubt there are many pre 96's left with under 100,000. And very few Renix left that low at all.

5.5 years ago I found a 89 with 78,000 miles on it, which is really low. I first thought it said 178. I got mine from an elderly man as well, in his late 70's or 80's for free. I asked if he wanted to sell it but when it was all over him and his wife just gave it to me because it didn't run. Of course a bit more to the story, but they were nicer to me than most of my own family. All it needed to start was a fuel pump.

It now has 116,000 on it. I remember the day when I clicked from 99,999 to 100,000. I felt kind of sad, but then thought it's doing what it's supposed to. Hopefully the Jeep see many more 99,999's turn to 00,000's, even if I am not around to see it.

 

you guys are awesome even a year later i appreciate you. the way i did it was 2 ways i honestly wasn't sure i left the cap off the first time let it run then cracked the sensor till the juice came out. then I did it with the top on as it was dropping and turned it off and a lot of air came out that's for sure + 2 more times to be safe with it off

i had 2 89s and an 88 many years back after that it was 96 or better i forgot all the tricks. i have a Napa down the block and a Dorman reservoir + a rad sensor and temp sender coming today let me try that first same issue I will get the Volvo one. if its still a no go i'll start considering the new water pumps shot or thermostat. what else is there to it smh

i really think its the cap/resevoir im almost convinced.

as much as i want to convert i have to keep this jeep original i owe at least one to the jeep Gods lol i'll let you guys get the other ones ready for war hahaha

 

i thought it was a mistake and it had 147 on it boy was i wrong i couldn't get the money out my pocket fast enough, i couldn't believe my eyes its got the select trac in there with the option of awd, power trans button

i would say under 1 % rust. remember im in NY our jeeps are rotted here how i have a 99 as well with no rust is still beyond me. i got lucky thats all.. this Laredo is all chromed out handcrafted seats and door panels when i get it together I'll throw a pic up.

im going to be sad when this thing hits 50k at a100 i'll be in tears lol im going to take it ez with this one i want to see this make it through another generation.

 

Try JUST the upgraded cap and see what happens.

 

Fair enough i'll switch the top first see what happens before i swap out the bottle too ..

much appreciated

 

Changed cap re bled also changed hose from reservoir overflow and radiator cooling sensor still overheating.

2 things i noticed the electric fan is still not turning on changed the relay already

Upper hose only gets hot by the t.stat housing the rest of the hose is not.. Whether that matters or not who knows..

what are your thoughts i got one last push in me or its off to the mechanic smh...

 

Sounds like the thermostat is not opening fully

 

Can you describe when it over heats? Does it over heat very quickly? Or does it take a while? Is it at idle or when driving?

I'd change the T-Stat again and not drill holes. The closed system is a bit harder to get the air out and I am glad I changed to the open system, but it is possible to get the air out with out loosening any sensors and such. I did it plenty and plenty of times. Make sure your T-Stat is 195 and don't get the dirt cheap one. Go at least mid level. Mopar is certainly the best.

Once you do change the T-Stat again and know you have the air out of it then....oh.....make sure your heater is on and on high when filling with water/coolant. That will cause air to get trapped if it's not on.

And clean your grounds...those can cause overheating if they are not clean......

@cruiser54