Hey,
Im new here and this is my first post. I just got a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4.0L 4x4. The car sat for 2-4 years and does not run. Me and my father are no mechanics, but we are trying simple, easy and cheap updates, upgrades and repairs. We are trying everything to get this jeep to run. Last week I bought a brand new battery, the jeep cranks and cranks SOOO strong, it ALMOST fires but yet no life. Well we replaced all spark plugs, changed the oil, and put a new oil filter. It still didn't start and now the engine is flooded with fuel. First, i would like to know how to drain, clear, clean, or just let the gas evaporate from this fuel injected engine that doesn't start. I've done research but they all require the car to start so im lost. I want to remove that gas before I continue in my repairs.
Thank you

 

Pull the spark plugs out, disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank it over.

 

While you've got them out it would also be a good time to check for spark.

 

And while the plugs are out, you can blow compressed air into the cylinders to clear out the gas, just hold a rag over the hole when you do it so it doesn't spray in your face!

 

As far as your no start, start with this.

Renix Ground Refreshin
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.

 

Also good advice^
Fuel, Fire, Air.
Sounds like you lack fire. Check for spark, refer to manual.
Also check CPS sensor.
Good luck!

 

The gas that is in now has that sat for 2 yrs also? First I would pull the plugs. And let dry out. A day or so. When putting the plugs back, I would check them for spark. By holding the plug against a ground or engine block (with plug wire on ) while being cranked over. If you have spark on all the plugs. Then try cranking it over, with a little starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body. (with out touching the gas pedal. If pops and want to start, you know it is a fuel issue. If it pops and wants to start after the starting fluid. try it with 1 push of the gas pedal while cranking over. Trying not to flood it out. You should hear the fuel pump as soon as you turn the key. If it wants to start, then start checking the fuel lines, pull off a fuel line at the fuel rail, to check to make sure it is getting gas to the injectors. It is possible the gas is turning to varnish from age. Clogging the injectors. report your progress back. so folks can help you. you two do know the basic needs of a gas motor in order to run. (and I 'm not trying to be insulting or anything.) But you need to start eliminating the cause of it not starting. You need spark, air and fuel. So first check spark, then fuel, then air.

 

Before replacing spark plugs, we checked a spark plug for spark and it was getting spark, but a weak yellow spark which is no good. so we have replaced spark plugs but due to the engine flooding, we haven't tried anything else. Would removing the spark plugs and leaving the holes open overnight help evaporate the gas? or should i just do like i was told? Also no the gas in it is new. next week me and my father plan to goto Firestone mechanic and let him do the work but im afraid