So im tackling the dreaded ball joint job. Ive gotten all the way to the knuckle and now I realize there is a spilt ring on the bottom so i cant just hit the knuckle loose. Anyone have any recommendations? Do i need to take it out first before i can knock the knuckle loose?

Also, id love to get rid of that, does a newer model XJ ('90+) model knuckle fit until i get a lift and do the WJ swap?

Thanks I advance.

 

Not sure what you mean by split ring, but there is supposed to be a cotter key that you remove on some joints. Remove it and the axle shaft and give the steering arm arm near the large part a swift blow with a big hammer and it should drop down.

 

I got the axle out already. It's literally just the knuckle left. Jeep used a split ring on the lower ball joint up to the 90 year model. Basicall, a castle nut with threads on the outside that I have to us a ball joint wrench or spanner to get out, It's for pre load adjustment. They tossed it and id like to switch but I cant get the knuckle off. Ive taken the caliper, rotor, hub, and axle all out. Its just the ball joints and the knuckle.

This ring goes in on the inside of the knuckle but outside the lower ball joint

 

I see, not all the XJs have that style of ball joint. That is the good one to have. However you still remove the knuckle the same way once you get the nuts off. Just hit it with a bug hammer. I have the same design on the Dana 44 I have.

 

Hey guys,

I'm currently dealing with this split ring seat issue on my 86 Cherokee so I thought I would add my observations here. I removed the steering knuckles using a pickle fork because I'm replacing the ball joints, so I was not worried about damaging the ball joint boots. Of course I also had to use the trusty hammer to wail on the top of the steering knuckle before they would finally drop off. They've been on there since 1986, so I wasn't surprised. The split ring seat within the steering knuckle does not affect your ability to remove the knuckle, it is screwed in to the knuckle itself and does not need to be removed prior to removing the knuckle.

Anyways, I have both the steering knuckles off, and the split ring seat on the passenger side knuckle was rusted beyond belief. The threads on the bottom were almost indistinguishable. I cleaned everything up, had it soaking in penetrating oil, and ultimately decided I was not going to try and get the old split ring seats out. I don't have the expertise to remove them without potentially ruining the entire steering knuckle. I've already pressed my new balljoints in, and of course I realize now that the old split ring seat is so worn out that it does not firmly grasp the lower ball joint stud. I thought about just putting it on there anyway, but I've done so much work it doesn't feel right to do that since I know it will make the knuckle move too freely around that lower BJ stud. I decided to take the knuckles to a machine shop to have them remove the old seats and clean up the threads. Fingers crossed they can get it done and have the new seats able to go in and out. When I get them back I'll screw the new seats in (new split ring seats came with the new BJs) and adjust them to the specified setting:

"The split ring seat must be screwed in to a depth of 0.206 in (5.23 mm), measured from the spindle boss to flats of the seat; this can be measured with a depth micrometer or a vernier caliper, as shown here"

I've been unable to locate a replacement knuckle from a local junk yard and I'm trying to slap this sucker back together sooner rather than later, so I decided to check with the local machine shops. Not stoked about the added cost, but having read this thread and others about the importance of this split ring seat for proper fitment of the steering knuckles on the ball joints, I'm glad I'm doing it.

 

It took me almost 2 hours of pickle fork and big hammer to finnally get mine loose... I fought it for awhile before making this thread. Good luck with project. I was able to get mine out with a little bit of acetone and ATF.