Ok, update. We replaced the ignition relay behind the battery with no success. The issue seems to be the key being turned is not actually turning the ignition on to prime or run. we did run power to the starter and fuel pump off the relay and both worked, motor cranked and the pump pumped. So my question now is...can we bypass the key somehow?

 

Check for power going into the ignition switch. Red wire. You could also have a burned/melted/failed fusible link at the relay that powers the switch.

Originally Posted by Firyls
showthread.php?p=245772145 - post245772145showthread.php?p=245772145 - post245772145
There should be a total of 4 ring terminals but 7 fusible links.

1. a. Blue = Alternator

2. a. Green = Ignition Switch
b. Orange = Fuel Pump Relay

3. a. Green = Fog Lamps/ Fuse Box / Engine Lamp
b. Green = ? (think it also goes to fuse box for other components)

4. a. Orange = B+ Latch Relay
b. Green = Fan Control Relay

Unfortunately the colors above only indicate the fusible link colors, I don't have what color wires they turn into after the fusible links end, and as they go to their respective destinations.

Since the its the green fusible link that's shares a ring terminal with an orange fusible link I feel that nails it down as the Ignition switch Fusible link. That fusible link at the very least needs to be replaced. That wire should go straight to the Ignition switch.

The fusible link colors indicate the Gauge.

Blue = 12 Gauge
Green = 18 Gauge
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...5625/N0220.oap
Orange = 20 Gauge


You still need to find out cause it to go out. So doublecheck all the ignition switch wiring, replace the ignition switch (they're like 10 bucks). And check the fuses, mainly the fuses that control electronics power by the ignition switch. The fuses that are powered by the ignition switch are ABS Fuse, Power Windows Fuse, Clock Fuse, TCU Fuse, Gauges Fuse, Blower Fuse, Rear window wiper fuse, Turn/back up lamps fuse, and Radio Fuse.

If a previous owner jumper bypassed one of those fuses with a jumper wire or used a fuse with a higher rating, and then the component it controls shorted, that short could work its way back through the ignition switch and cause the ignition switch fusible link to die out.

　

 

ok cruiser, i get what the post is saying...but im not sure where the fusible links are? picture? map? smoke signals? help!

i can trace the wires coming off the ignition switch under the hood to some rubber coatings, which upon cutting one open out of curiosity turned out to be nothing but a splice, untill each wire joins into the main harness...am i missing those fuses somewhere along the line?

 

Fuse links are the "wires" coming off the starter relay.

 

So there's not an actual fuse?

 

No. The "wires" will melt inside if there is a short or too much draw.

 

Ahhh...interesting seeing as this happened when the passenger tried to turn the heat on...

 

check the fusible links at the starter most definitely, but don't count out the ignition box on top of the steering column they have a habit of burning up (the accessories are normally the first to go). It's only a 20 dollar piece of mind and about 40 minutes if you're handy with a wrench.

 

To clarify, the links are on the relay on the passenger fender near the battery, not AT the starter.

And yes, the ignition switches are prone to failure.

 

Ok, so it may be a day or two till were messing with th jeep again, but just so unknown what to check-
1) the ignition box in the column, as in the rod or the wires coming down the column?

2) the wires coming off the relay, make sure they aren't burned out somewhere

 

1) It's a switch on top of the column just under the dash, operated by a rod from the ignition tumbler which you put your key into.

Here's a burned up one for those who like photos.

 

Sorry had chevy on the brain, my sisters S-10 is having problems, those links are at the starter.

 

I'm having the same issue with my 89 4.0. I was driving along and turned heater fan from low to high and the whole thing shut off. Now the only thing that works are the headlights, brake lights, and hazards. I checked all the fusible links coming off the starter relay behind the battery all test out fine. I put a new ignition switch on it but that didn't fix anything. I cleaned the grounds that connect to the motor. I'm getting 12volts from the one red wire that goes to the one plug for the ignition switch. From what I've searched and read I've checked everything people have suggested I just don't know what to do next. Any help would be appreciated.

 

If you check the red wire at the ignition switch verify that it has power all the time (verify that it has power under load as well). I just helped a friend of mine fix his; and the red wire was broken at the firewall connection directly behind the under dash fuse panel on the engine side. After wiring around the connector (the wire is still protected by the fuseable link that is located behind the battery) his XJ fired right up!

picture unrelated.

Happy wheeling,

j0lly4numb