Tip 3 should have covered the ballast resistor.....

Are you using my website or the link on CF?

 

It should have, but it didn't I honestly had no idea what it was, and didn't touch it. It also looked like I had gotten some mud up there when I went mudding the first and last time I went mudding (had ruined my alternator that trip as well)

I use the link here on CF.


I don't know if it had any effect on it. I cleaned the NSS and did some driving that night before cleaning the ballast contacts, and had no issues that night either. cleaning the NSS had a HUGE effect on starting, and shifting between gears.

 

An FYI:

Use the website is it is more up to date and complete.

 

back at square one. Stalled twice on me within a quarter mile.

 

Sorry to hear that. Gimme a recap of what all you've done so I don't have to re-read the thread please.

 

Things I've done:
New alt
New fuel pump
new fuel pressure regulator
new iac
new tps (adjusted correctly)
New vacuum harness
new fuel filter
new plugs
new wires
new distributor
new engine block/head (old one had very low compression)
new cps
new egr valve


and a bunch of other stuff I cannot think of off the top of my head. it mainly does it when its cold, and either slowing down after a short acceleration (Like pulling out of my driveway, I drive like a couple hundred feet and come to a stop sign, I'll stall as soon as I let off the gas to brake for the sign.) Once I've had a chance to warm up the engine, its MUCH less likely to do it, but it will still happen. Its a 90% chance of it happening when cold, and like a 15% chance of happening when the engine is warm.

 

The results from Tip 5 were good, right?

Auto trans? Connectors clean per tip 10?

 

Yes and yes.

I almost think its an idle/mix issue. almost like its too rich maybe?

 

No new NTK oxygen sensor?

 

There was a new one, but when I put in the new engine block, they also put in a new header and exhaust. I'll have to check to see if the reused mine, or one that came with the exhaust.

 

Could it be the ECU coolant temp sending unit. I think there are two or three for your engine. I have read that there is one in the radiator for the cooling fan, one on the front of the engine for the gauge, and one on the block for the ECU. If the ECU one is stuck at one end of the range it can cause drivability issues.

 

Read this thread.


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f53/89...-sensor-21758/

 

Also read this.


http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm

 

Aroundincircles, I feel your pain. I was hoping I had our problem wiped too. Cleaned the NSS and replaced the fuel pump ballast resister. Took it out for a drive, and no problem. Have driven it about 150 miles, took it out this afternoon, and about 2 miles from the house it died. This time I was able to check to see if there was fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. No fuel came out. But was able to get it started and drove it home.

I have completed tips 1 and 2-8, 11 and 14
replaced and adjusted TPS,
replaced CPS,
replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pump ballast resister
replaced ECU (before I found this site), and
replaced IAC.

Seems like I've done more, but that is all I can remember now.

Any ideas what could be causing fuel pressure to drop to nothing? As described above in my original post, I started out checking the fuel pressure idling in the garage

"At idle pressure is 30 psi, if rev motor to about 2000RPM (a guess with no tach) quickly rose to 32, then dropped to about 29 psi. Let idle for hour with back end sticking out of the garage hoping it would die so could watch the pressure gauge. But it never dies, and the pressures never changed. Just for fun I kept pressure gauge hooked up, and put car in drive and revved engine while standing on brakes until tires started to spin. Fuel pressure rose to about 38 psi."

Ideas? Thanks! Mike

 

Pump is getting hot and taking a dump or resistor is doing the same.