the leak is only coming from the drain valve on the lower passenger side of the radiator. i still have some teflon tape from my other plumbing endeavor so ill see if i can just find a plug to put in there.

as far as the galvanized pipe with the brass fitting on the top, the original pipe that came off was a thin walled galvanized pipe that was flared on one end but that this was so corroded that i didnt want to put that back on the system (couldnt get it off the water pump anyways). the pipe alone was about 2 inches too short so the brass fitting brought it to the perfect length and gave me a good spot to clamp too with no leaking worries. ill keep an eye on it but for now it seems that the galv pipe with the brass tip teflon tape seal is working perfectly as now thanks for the heads up

 

Steel and copper don't get along too well.

 

oh damn! guess ill go get me some copper piping next time im working on the coolant system and replacing hoses. thats intense haha wait i dont have any copper just steel and brass tip, will it have a similar result?

 

Yeah, that's a brass valve in the pic.

 

well damn

 

I prefer smooth pipe, like the rest. Nothing wrong with barbs, except later it will be nearly imposable to get the hose off. A 3-1/2 inch x 1/2 brass nipple at Ace is about $4 IIRC.

I wonder if the anti-corrosive additives in coolant affect dielectric action, (of dissimilar metals). IIRC, it's just galvanized and brass, (and maybe copper), that is a problem.

 

Is this what the op is talking about. If so I just screwed a brass hose barb into the pump and used a 90 bent hose and coupling. @ Flint closed systems whether industrial or in an automobile generally use anti corrosive chemicals. You never transition from copper or copper alloys to carbon steel without a non conductive buffer or dielectric fitting in between.

 

Oh yeah my pump is aluminum. Don't know if it's oem or not.

 

@boogy don't sweat it too much. It doesn't happen over night. The main concern is the assembly clogging and or seizing in the pump. As long as it's taken care of within several several months you should be good.

 

yeah it was all i could really thing of at the time since no store carrier the pipe and i didnt have time to try and order one from chrysler lol ill get it fixed next paycheck.

think id be fine if i just took the brass barb fitting off and slid the hose and clamped it past the threads on the pipe? the pump itself is aluminium

if not ill just take it all off there and go from scratch.

 

I'm pretty sure it's common to put brass on plane steel/iron. It's galvanized that causes a problem. (I've installed more than a few dielectric unions plumbing). That said, I've been watching a hose bib corrode on my own bathtub since 1996! (actually it's the galvanized, "sacrificing"). No Idea if the anti corrosive additives in coolant would matter here or not. Maybe.
Dielectric unions are unions with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric insulation, used to separate dissimilar metals (such as copper and galvanized steel) to avoid the damaging effects of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion. When two dissimilar metals are in contact with an electrically conductive solution (even tap water is conductive), they will form a battery and generate a voltage by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis. When the two metals are in direct contact with each other, the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_current from one metal to the other will cause a movement of ions from one to the other, dissolving one metal and depositing it on the other. A dielectric union breaks the electric current path with a plastic liner between two halves of the union, thus limiting galvanic corrosion.

You are fine Boogyman. Just hook it up and go! You will find if it's been clamped on barbs, no amount of twisting or pulling will remove it. (when you stretch tube, it tightens, like a Chinese finger trap) Probably why nothing else is barbed.

 

wow thanks for all that! love learning useful info!

makes sense now as i remember doing an experiment at a kid where we plated a coin with a different metal using electric currents and water as a catalyst.

if i cant get the hose off its no big deal they are all old as hell and need to be replaced soon anyway, ill probably just do the whole system at once, im sure the jeep would appreciate it.

thanks for all the help and information guys you all rock! making jeeps safer one noobie at a time

 

Wikipedia rocks! I can get lost there. As Crawdad points out, you might want to redo it sans the galvanized when you can, no rush there.

 

Agreed-Given 5-10 years, you will see that problem with steel and copper but the rad is not made of steel so the brass should be fine with the aluminum or copper that it is made of.

 

Read the whole thread.