Plug wires.

 

Checked, double and triple checked the spark plug wiring diagram. Pulled the coil again after finding an appropriate resistance test. It passed the primary and secondary resistance test within spec. I know that doesn't necessarily mean it's good but it gives me no reason to think it's bad. I found some wiring from the battery to the block in really terrible, awful condition. So going to investigate that.

 

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4rH...p=docslist_api

Any info on this wire? You can see the oil filter in the lower right corner of the photo. From what I can tell it goes from the block to the ignition control module. What's it called? Where's the best place to order a replacement? Could it be causing this?

 

You still need to answer the question that was asked! Has this 93 parts engine run since it was installed in the 89 renix? The flexplates are designed differently and will not interchange. So if it has not run and you can not get an AC signal, the biggest problem may be the flexplate.

 

I should try to explain. The main difference between the renix and non-renix flexplates is the locations of the trigger windows. The CPS designs are different between 89 and 93 and this could be messing you up! If this motor has run in the 89, it would prove the correct flexplate was used.

 

Thanks PD. Felt like I was hollering in a vacuum. I learned that from Cruiser, who is staying mum or some reason. In any case, a goose egg on the ACV test ...that can't run. (That, and about only that, is independent of grounds and wiring connections)

 

I'm with you, no cps signal = no spark. Dolfin should be checking out cruizers pink link under his posting for modifying and adjusting the cps also.

 

I guess that doesn't explicitly say it has been running for the past 4 years with the parts engine installed. But yes, this is her daily driver. It has been running with the parts engine. I've read the pink link. I know how to test and adjust. What reasoning do you have behind adjusting it? It was working with regular positioning since 1989.

I'm thankful for the help, I'm just wanting to be exact in diagnosing this. This is a vehicle she relies on and if I need to pass it off to a paid mechanic I'd rather do that than just trying things without good cause.

The cps sensor has kept me up at night trying to figure why it keeps testing bad. Nonsensical.

 

Supper. I'm very happy to hear it's not an issue with the wrong flex plate. Was asking because a zero from the CPS...is a problem.

I'm about grounded, at a loss. Maybe try another meter? Does the AC-V scale work on the home outlet? (110-120?v). Maybe pull the inspection plate and see if it's full of something. I didn't mean to be a problem, it's just that the newer flex plate would be expected to be a problem, and you never answered.

 

First off, READING the links doesn't help. You must perform the procedures to experience the benefit. You're over analyzing this. The things that can go wrong, and add up to your issue, may never be "found". There's too many contributing factors, and when you add them all up, you have problems. The Tips, 1 through 5 should flat be done. Known issues, some from JeepTech and some from my 12 years experience at a Jeep dealer as a Service Manager and Shop Foreman during the introduction of the Renix system.

 

Trust Cruiser, he knows his stuff. You mentioned in an earlier posting that your multimeter's lowest ac voltage setting is 200. You need to use one with a lower setting. Harbor freight has a digital one for cheap(less than $10) that works just fine. Then check the ac value. My 87 only liked a factory cps with cruisers mod set .45 to .55 ac volts. The closer the sensor, the higher the voltage during cranking.

 

Actually I've used a cheapo with a 200V scale....but you only get 10ths, and not 100ths of a volt. If it shows a .3 and flashes a .4 it can be assumed it's at the higher end of .3. In any case, a meter with a 2V scale is the ticket.

What about the CPS mount bolts. (trien to think of what could possibly be wrong). IIRC they have a shoulder that holds the CPS just so. If somehow you had regular screws it might be possible to mount it so it doesn't make a signal. Just a thought.

 

I just looked closer at Harbor freight's multi meters and found the $5.99, 7 function version goes no lower than 200v ac on the dial. My bad. They do offer a 11 function version that has as low as 2v ac on the dial for $24.99 and maybe less if you take a 20% coupon with you(item #37772). Hang in there Dolphin, this forum has a lot of experience with getting folks out of jams, but it does take patience and communication.

 

Yes, the cheap, red, cen-teck does actually work. (they have been even cheaper) The leads are wimpy, and the LCD display will "loose some legs) (sooner if it sees any water)
I use allot of meters, mostly cheap ones. From hands on experience I can say that cen-tek, showing a .3 and flashing a .2 means trouble. Showing a .3 and flashing a .4 means trouble soon.

I once saw a Jeep that would run with a .1, but die at every stop .35 seems to be minimum in my experience.

 

I talked it over with her, I'll be doing the ground and connector refresh from the pink link Tuesday. They found a vehicle to borrow until this is running again.