jesses89cherokee

i have a 89 cherokee laredo 4.0l and am having issues with it sputtering and sometimes stalling while accelerating. once it gets to 5 to 10 mph it runs fine. the hesitation is only from accelerating from a stopped position. sometime while moving when i let off the gas and reaply gas it will do the same. please help! i think maybe the egr valve? kinda hoping on anyone to help me! thank you...

Aggie2011

I was having the same problem with mine. It ended up being the battery... For some reason it was not getting charged. I cleaned all the terminals and had a auto shop charge it for me and I have not had any problems. If that is not it my next step was going to be the idle air control valve.

kbad

load test battery and alternator....then go from there...., also check your +/- cables for corrosion inside the windings (copper will turn green - on twisted strands, it starts from the center to the outside)....a brand new battery and cables will always be a good investment - jeeps have to have at least a solid 13-13.5V - the ecu and all sensors depend on a good reference voltage..... look here for renix troubleshooting..... http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm ..... good luck!

88GTBlack

my girl left my lights on today like a dumbass killed the battery and now its running like ****...And its been idling for about 2 hours it should be fully charged by now idk whats going on.

jesses89cherokee

okay. but it starts fine and runs fine once the car gets rolling. only when letting on and off the gas is when it acts up. im going to go get the battery tested now. any other opinions? thank you...

kbad

once you get going, it's the alternator that's getting the action - battery starts up the truck, then it gets charged until next start up - so, get alternator checked too, just to be sure while you are at it, eh. i had the same issues, after going through fuel system issues (ended up being the gas tank causing failure to other components in fuel system! go figure, eh), so was puzzled until the third jump! had battery load tested and it just wouldn't get up to 13+v for the crank!

...while there, pick up a can of crc tb cleaner and purge the egr - you can blow into it and it should only blow through in one direction, otherwise the diaphragm maybe shot! or your vacuum hoses may be plugged up....if you follow the vacuum lines, one should end up at intake manifold - don't know where your other one ends up at, maybe tb?....you can spray crc down the vacuum lines and it will clean them out....good luck!

jesses89cherokee

i got my battery tested at auto zone. the battery passed.but im not positive its getting 13 volts... but the battery is a month old. so it should be good. i looked at the distributor cap and it had build up on the posts. so i went ahead n replaced it in the parking lot. still having the issue. i am not sure were the egr valve is located or what it looks like. and your talking bout throttle body cleaner right? i will get the alternator tested tomorrow. i requested the day off so i can get this issue handled. im a new jeep owner and it seems like you know a whole hellofa lot more than i do bout em. so ill be on here all day waiting for replies n helpful tips. if its easier to just call me please do. be alot easier than messaging back n forth. (209)570-8433 thanks again, Jesse smith

jesses89cherokee

couldit be the tps if its idling fine? just has a hesitation getting going? feels like too much gas not enough air to me. once it hesitates you let off the gas then it idles fine. till you hit the gas again and it hesitates or sometimes dies! thank you again for the help. its greatly appreciated!

kbad

gotta be at dr appt this morning, i can call you later in the afternoon today.....tb = throttle body....meanwhile, post a pic of your engine bay (intake and tb area) and try here for more egr tips.... http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=90 ....and here too.... http://www.jedi.com/ ....see pic for egr.....

jesses89cherokee

Ended up being the coolant temp. sensor! glad thats over with! what next right? thanks for all the help.

89cherokee479

How did that make it stutter on take off? Cause mine does that randomly but mostly on take off!!??

aroundincircles

I know this thread is super old, but How do you replace a coolant temp sensor on an 89 cherokee? I'm having this exact issue, where it stumbles on acceleration... but not all the time. Has a new battery, but I did have the radiator replaced recently along with a lot of other cooling parts. I bought the cherokee non running so I took it to the shop knowing it was overheating so they fixed it. I wonder if something didn't get plugged back in?

Jeepcrazy5722

Have you performed all of Cruisers tips for your Renix? You don't have to worry about the C101 since you have an 89, but the chances are it is something in the link below. Good luck

tp://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

Jeepcrazy5722

I just saw your pics that you posted, are those OEM vacuum hoses? Vacuum leaks can also cause your problem, along with loose manifold bolts. Maybe Cruiser will come along and give you some more tips, he is the Renix god.

cruiser54

These pics ^^ are NOT of a Renix, but of a 258 and a V8.

Jesse, begin by making sure the intake manifold bolts are not loosened up and cleaning your throttle body. Instructions will follow.

How long since the old thing got plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

Click on the pink link below and perform posts 1,3,4, and 5. No shortcuts.

Courtesy of TJWalker:
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The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is moved in, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is moved out, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to)

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and is best for this task. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled