Then mine is the renix. Guess ill do a compression test.

On another note. When the motor was running and I was spraying tb cleaner into the tb. The idle got better and I could rev motor by hand some. Without spraying idle got worse and no throttle. Just pops and completely falls on its face.

 

I wonder if you knocked th econnections loose on your fuel pump ballast resistor. The symptoms you describe are consistent with low fuel pressure.

 

Fuel pressure was reading 40 psi at the rail.

I tried bypassing the resistor, also cleaned it up. How hot is that supposed to get? After about 10 minutes of idling i noticed the resistor smoking, seemed like it was burning oil or grease off of it. It was warm, almost hot too touch.

The way i bypassed it was connected the two orange wires using a paper clip.

 

Paper clip is not good. Need wire of equal size to the ones at each end of the resistor.

 

It was a bigger paper clip, can it be bypassed completely? Cut the two wires and splice them together?

Having 40 psi at the rail, wouldn't that eliminate the question about the resistor being bad?

 

Yes, it can be bypassed. Cruiser posted that it was added when people complained about pump noise.

 

Ok, well i also tried that after the paper clip didnt seem too change anything. this has got me stumped

 

Yes, it can be bypassed completely.

Isn't the resistor getting hot to the touch? Are you into skipping possible solutions?

 

Not too hot too touch, but it was smoking. Burning water and grease that was built up on it. I THINK.

power steering fluid sprayed out of the cap all over the place.. Another story lol

What are you thinking? Another problem before the resistor in the circuit? Any suggestions help. It is Bypassed now, still acting up.. I figured that it being made or ceramic ment it got hot.

I just bypassed it for a second too see if it fixed anything, maybe 60 seconds. If bypassing is ok, i wont worry about replacing it. I dont know what other possible solutions there are, kinda why im here, any help is appreciated. Not the best with diagnosing electrical and vacuum stuff.

 

The resistor gets warm, but if it's hot enough to smoke- that isn't normal. Could be that your fuel pump is drawing too much current or you have a wiring issue.
Did you check the pressure with the regulator vacuum line on or off? Pressure should jump up about 8-10# when you remove the vacuum line.

 

The plug wires should be 153624 in a clockwise rotation on the cap when viewed from the passenger side looking at the cap. Are yours 153624 in a counter-clockwise rotation?

 

Im positive that my wires are correct.

Im not too sure how i measured the fuel psi, I forget. Ill recheck today and also ill check some wiring before the resistor. Any more suggestions are appreciated.

 

Did you get all the ground wires connected to a clean and shiny stud at the engine dipstick tube?

 

Yes. Mine didnt have a stud. Just a bolt that held the dip stick. My old motor had the stud closer to tranny and the dipstick bolt.

I have the 2 or 3 wires and the negative battery cable all going to the dip stick bolt. I added a 4 gauge wire from fuel rail bolt to fire wall replacing the braided wire.

 

Got an old distributor cap?

See post # 13 in the "pink link" of my signature.