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88 XJ No start Saga

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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #31  
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Morning report....

reran vac system -good

pulled spark plug and tested - good

tested contact on starter relay while cranking - ORANGE 9.3

ballest while cranking in 9.3 out 6.8

wire harnes at fuel pump w/ key on light brown/middle - 6.8 pink - 0.5

fuel pump harness while crank light brown/middle 5.3 pink 11.0

12v jumper to fuel pump, tryed brown and pink wire and no sound from pump

So, what wire on the fuel harness is supose to be hot?
and shouldnt i hear something from the fuel pump when i jump it?
also wondering why my starter relay is only giving me 9v

Oh ya, and fuel pump relay seems good.

Last edited by DEOR; Aug 26, 2011 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DEOR
Morning report....

reran vac system -good

pulled spark plug and tested - good

tested contact on starter relay while cranking - ORANGE 9.3

ballest while cranking in 9.3 out 6.8

wire harnes at fuel pump w/ key on light brown/middle - 6.8 pink - 0.5

fuel pump harness while crank light brown/middle 5.3 pink 11.0

12v jumper to fuel pump, tryed brown and pink wire and no sound from pump

So, what wire on the fuel harness is supose to be hot?
and shouldnt i hear something from the fuel pump when i jump it?
also wondering why my starter relay is only giving me 9v

Oh ya, and fuel pump relay seems good.
Let me finish my coffee :gunsmile:
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #33  
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You might have a fuseable link that's bad - given you high resistance.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by je4reyk
You might have a fuseable link that's bad - given you high resistance.
That's an easy test. Just check the voltage at the lug on the relay.... op did you do this already? I may have forgot that.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 10:55 AM
  #35  
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"12v jumper to fuel pump, tryed brown and pink wire and no sound from pump"

Mormimg, Myself, on my Jeep I'd consider that a sign that my pump is dead. Maybe yours is different Does it rely on an independent ground?
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Slick761
That's an easy test. Just check the voltage at the lug on the relay.... op did you do this already? I may have forgot that.

is that the lug on the starter relay? coming straight from battery? if so im getting 12 there.

on my fuel pump relay.... big orange- ground, orange/blk- 11.4, yellow -11.4, red -12


as for the pump, is there any other test. i would think it would kick on with the jumper too. looks like the prev. owner replaced it but i dont know.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 02:24 PM
  #37  
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OK! My 90 has a ceramic resistor on the front left by the battery. Both wires are orange/blk, stripe. If I jump to the front terminal, the pump hums as it should. If I jump to the back term. it goes faster. On the tank I have three, one Blk, grounded to the mount, one purple, (presumably gauge) and one orange. So check that that black ground is OK, a test light, or 1 ohm (+-)
Assuming it's grounded, it should run with the 8-9 volts, (I get 9.2 running), it's getting from the rear resistor terminal.

I get 12.5 to the front running, (batt. is over 14). If you are not getting 12 from the relay, fix it till you do!
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 02:38 PM
  #38  
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ok thanks, good info.

well i jumped from the battery to the terminals on the ballast. i couldnt hear anything so i had my wife duck by the tire and listen (she was holding the baby or i would of had her jump it she said she didnt hear anything on the first contact (front) and something like the sink draining (whatever that means, not a hum i guess) on the second one. Also worth noting the wires got really hot pretty fast.

im going to take the pump out later tonight and investigate.

Last edited by DEOR; Aug 26, 2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #39  
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I'm really beginning to think the pump is bad. Thought you said it was new but you never know. You cab year for continuity from the ground directly to the two hit wires going in the pump.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #40  
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On my 90 the pump/gauge is on the front of the tank. Although the book says to drop the tank, I didn't. Hopefully you have less than 1/2 a tank. No sparks! Disconnect the battery. A brass drift would be nice, hrd, wood dowel might work.

Yea, if it had power and ground and sounds like a sink drain...

One last test. Unplug the wires from the pump and repeat that test. If the wires are still getting hot you probably have a short.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #41  
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You only need to drop the tank on newer models. And like said above DO NOT USE A STEEL PUNCH, DRIFT, OR ANYTHING ELSE STEEL TO KNOCK THE RING OUT! IT CAN SPARK... YOU WON'T BE HAPPY WITH THE RESULT.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #42  
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haha, alright no metal.

pumps comen out in the morning.

also good idea ,on disconnecting pump and checking for short, ill do that too.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #43  
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If you can. spray & clean best you can. I got a "dirt shower". While you have the wires off make sure you have ??? 8-9 volts (cranking), to that orange wire. Might be the new pump won't help if you don't.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:36 AM
  #44  
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Default melted in-tank fuel line

well i think i found the problem, A problem at least. pulled the fuel pump this morning. the motor is lose in its metal bracket and i can actually see where its been arcing against the + post. and the in-tank fuel hose is melted! any body ever seen this?

Check out the pic, in my photos.

upon further inspection i see that it is the rubber grommets, also, holding in the pump that melted and allowed the fuel pump to ground out on the mount.






Last edited by DEOR; Aug 27, 2011 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 09:48 AM
  #45  
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The pump hose is common to replacements because sometimes fuel grade lube isn't used. Congtats!

Last edited by Slick761; Aug 27, 2011 at 11:41 AM.
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