'88 wheel alignment
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
'88 wheel alignment
A few days ago, I replaced all 4 tie-rods and the track bar in my Jeep. It now drives a lot more solidly and doesn't shimmy like it had been.
However, as I am driving at 20-40 mph, the front tires seem to intermittently squeal a little bit. Especially when they get on more slippery surfaces.
It drives straight, and I think that I have the front wheels close to parallel from each other. Should I increase toe-in?
However, as I am driving at 20-40 mph, the front tires seem to intermittently squeal a little bit. Especially when they get on more slippery surfaces.
It drives straight, and I think that I have the front wheels close to parallel from each other. Should I increase toe-in?
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
You can grind down a pair of tires pretty quick with the toe-in, out. Gone are the days you could just get that set for $20. Now it's a full 4 wheel allignment, probably what you should to.
There are at least a coupe of ways to take a shot at yourself, but takes, time, the right surface, (sometimes). I'm about the last guy to suggest going to a shop, but maybe you should here being the price you might pay in tires if you are a bit off.
There are at least a coupe of ways to take a shot at yourself, but takes, time, the right surface, (sometimes). I'm about the last guy to suggest going to a shop, but maybe you should here being the price you might pay in tires if you are a bit off.
#3
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
A few days ago, I replaced all 4 tie-rods and the track bar in my Jeep. It now drives a lot more solidly and doesn't shimmy like it had been.
However, as I am driving at 20-40 mph, the front tires seem to intermittently squeal a little bit. Especially when they get on more slippery surfaces.
It drives straight, and I think that I have the front wheels close to parallel from each other. Should I increase toe-in?
However, as I am driving at 20-40 mph, the front tires seem to intermittently squeal a little bit. Especially when they get on more slippery surfaces.
It drives straight, and I think that I have the front wheels close to parallel from each other. Should I increase toe-in?
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#7
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
TOE IN
Besides the string around all four...You can jack up a front, spin the wheel, and with a rattle can (white is good) spray a strip. Then, with the help of a block, spinning the wheel again, make a clean line in/on that paint. Do the same to the other. Role it forward on a nice flat surface a bit. Now you have accurate lines to check your toe-in.
Because 1/16 's matter, transferring from that line, down to paper/cardboard, taped to the floor with a level or plumb-bob is pretty tricky. It can be done. Better if you can to just measure with a tape, across at 9 and 3:00. (front and rear, axle height)
With a helper and a lifted Jeep..."burn" an inch, meaning you hold the 1 inch mark on the pen line, (because using the end of the tape is not as accurate). The Jeep spec may well be "zero". (specs are for at the correct rim bead, not out at the tread). I myself would still aim for 1/8-3/16 at the tread. TOE IN, meaning the front measurement is 1/8 inch less than the rear measurement.
I'm less sure on getting the steering wheel set straight. Maybe adjust the drag link till the wheel is right going straight. I'd probably go back and re-check the toe-in after adjusting the drag link.
Besides the string around all four...You can jack up a front, spin the wheel, and with a rattle can (white is good) spray a strip. Then, with the help of a block, spinning the wheel again, make a clean line in/on that paint. Do the same to the other. Role it forward on a nice flat surface a bit. Now you have accurate lines to check your toe-in.
Because 1/16 's matter, transferring from that line, down to paper/cardboard, taped to the floor with a level or plumb-bob is pretty tricky. It can be done. Better if you can to just measure with a tape, across at 9 and 3:00. (front and rear, axle height)
With a helper and a lifted Jeep..."burn" an inch, meaning you hold the 1 inch mark on the pen line, (because using the end of the tape is not as accurate). The Jeep spec may well be "zero". (specs are for at the correct rim bead, not out at the tread). I myself would still aim for 1/8-3/16 at the tread. TOE IN, meaning the front measurement is 1/8 inch less than the rear measurement.
I'm less sure on getting the steering wheel set straight. Maybe adjust the drag link till the wheel is right going straight. I'd probably go back and re-check the toe-in after adjusting the drag link.
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