yeah that's what I was thinking. Always heard stories about it and didn't want to take the chance lol

 

This is kinda along the lines why I choose this stuff called Medic Medic to use in my Jeep every once in awhile.

https://www.motormedic.com/

It is engine flush crap. Probably just Marvel Mystery Oil. LOL
I was reading some reviews on it and there were only a few.
Most people liked it.
You put it in your engine cold. Run it for 5 minutes at an idle, drain your oil, and do the oil change.
You don't remove a quart when you do this.
So there is was this one guy that hated it. Said after he used it his engine started leaking oil everywhere.
He was pissed.
All I read was that the stuff did its job. All the gunk that was in the engine that was keeping it from leaking
was actually flushed out by the Motor Medic.
It was that one bad review that made my try it. MLOL.

 

Wanted to shed some light on this because I know so many people who are very scared of this. There are a few situations in which I think it is fine to change your oil and a few situations in which it is recommended you bite the bullet and just don't change it.

When your transmission has fluid in it that has never been changed and you are high mileage, let's say 200,000 miles it is a bad idea to change the fluid. Without scientific testing of fluids and such, I would assume this is because the fluid is not doing its job as perfectly as it should anymore so clutches or belts have worn out and that material is now floating around in the fluid. This means when you change the fluid things will slip and problems with arise. This may not be the exact reason this happens but I've always been told if the fluid was not changed at the proper intervals and is now very high mileage that you should not change it because your transmission will start to slip.

Changing your fluid at the right times is extremely important because of this with such a durable trans like the AW4 though I would even say if it is high mileage change it and put some lucas oil transmission fix in it and you'd be good to go. You can also change the filter on the trans but use the original fluid.

I even know of people on here who have had no problem changing worn-out trans fluid after its proper change interval on the AW4. I know plenty of people though with Fords and Land Rovers though that changed their fluid and the trans immediately started slipping...

 

my 93 is at 161k miles so it's a little up there. But has a lot more kicking to do.

 

Have had many people tell me it's a myth, including my teachers who each were Ford master techs for almost 20 years. But that's why I said to play it safe save your old fluid and if for whatever reason the fresh fluid causes a problem put your old fluid back in. Or you could even do a mix and slowly convert it to 100% fresh fluid, I personally think that's getting too complicated.

 

You know what kills me?
Is that we have a drain plug in the tranny pan.
Ok sure you don't get all the fluid out but still.
To not drain the 3 to 4 quarts that come out of the pan on a regular basis is just crazy.
When I first got my '00 I did the gasket and filter, well screen, just cause I wanted a fresh gasket there.
And now every other year I dump the fluid and replace it.
Which considering how little I drive is way overkill.
Actually rethinking doing it every 5 years. Still only be about 15K on the fluid. LOL.
But because of the way I drive my Jeep falls into the "Severe Duty" maintenance category.
Short trips. Frequent stops and starts, etc.
And in my FSM it recommends changing the fluid at 24K.
In the other category it says 30K.

 

Awesome find! Gonna follow this one for sure👍

 

Two years later and "Life" got in the way
got to work on it :
Replaced Plugs, distributor, rotor, new wires
New Oil, water in radiator

Disconnected fuel line from caberator, removed Air cleaner.Sprayed carb with carb cleaner

Connect batery and jumped with pickup - Lights came on!!

Little gas in the carb, turned it over and it sputtered, got wife to help and was able to get sustained runtime - 4-6 seconds (ran out of gas in cup)

Has lit a new fire in the rebuild
Going to remove and clean tank, probably replace gas lines

Whats the thoughts on the mechanical fuel pump - Go with whats there or just replace?

Throttle cable seems to stick, I can move it manually, but it won't "come back" by itself. - replace or try and lubricate to work properly?

Will try and update more frequently then every two years

D

 

Almost a year later and life continues faster then I can work.
I've not made anymore progress and am afraid this is going to sit until it's a rust pile.
Have decided to sell, but trouble setting price.
Thinking $1500 and negotiate from there.
Based on what it is, does that sound reasonable


D

 

Not sure what things are like in your area but in mine you have to have the title to be able to register it and selling it without a title/true ownership is a no go. Based on the quick read you don't have the title/ownership.

If you have ownership/title then I still don't think I would pay 1500 for it if it doesn't run. If it was running then yes. I bought a 2001 in great physical shape with a check engine light on for $3500.

 

Thanks for the feedback
I do have clear title
wasn't sure what the "market" was

Appreciate it

D