8.25 or D44? Can't decide.
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Year: 1992
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8.25 or D44? Can't decide.
So I have a D35 right now in my Xj with ABS. I want to end up gearing to 4.56 with a LSD. Just not sure which axle to run and how it will effect the ABS system. Any thoughts or experience with this would be a huge help.
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If the ABS is your concern then the SOURCE of the axle becomes the issue.. not all 8.25's have this. That will also lead to the which is better answer. 8.25 vs D44a go with the 8.25, 8.25 vs STEEL D44 go with the D44. Ford 8.8 might make the most sence.
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I have heard a lot of people say to get rid of the ASB anyways. What is the difference from a D44a and steel D44? The D44 I am looking at is out of a 87 Xj.
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I have looked into the 8.8 as well but it seemed to be a lot of work cutting off all the brackets and having to re weld all the mounts. I have read that you can pull the disc off of a wj or zj for the 8.25.
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I didn't know the XJ eve rhad a D44. If you have found an XJ D44 I'd go that route and trash the ABS system. The D44 from the ZJ and WJ are aluminum center section hence the D44a. But the suspension is the biggest issue with that axle.
D35 brakes and ABS can be grafted onto the 8.25 axle. If the OP chose to go the 8.25 route he could swap the brakes from his D35 onto the new 8.25.
D35 brakes and ABS can be grafted onto the 8.25 axle. If the OP chose to go the 8.25 route he could swap the brakes from his D35 onto the new 8.25.
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I believe it was the 87-89 xj had an option for D44 with the tow package. I just didn't know how hard it was to scrap the ABS system. Does it all have to come out or can I just disconnect the fuses and stuff so I don't have an warning lights and still brakes correctly?
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XJ D44s are rare hence very expensive. They ARE full floats, which is nice, and if you can find one for cheap then great. The aluminum crap from Grands are pointless and require work anyway.
Chrysler 8.25 upper limit I'd say is 35s. Locked if you go real easy on it. Otherwise 33s locked. Limited slip shouldn't pose too much of a problem with shock loading.
Ford 8.8 can be build to go bigger and a lot stronger but requires fab skills.
Disc brakes are a cheap upgrade on an 8.25 and were OE on 8.8s. Regardless whatever axle you get will probably need new brakes so there's not much difference. Disc brakes will keep the shafts from flying out if you snap it as these axles are semi-float.
Retaining ABS is technically possible but a lot more trouble than it's worth IMO. The KJ C8.25 came with ABS but, like the 8.8's, is not compatible with the XJ system. More here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1086957
Consensus seems to be to just ditch it. There are a number of threads flying around on how to do so.
Chrysler 8.25 upper limit I'd say is 35s. Locked if you go real easy on it. Otherwise 33s locked. Limited slip shouldn't pose too much of a problem with shock loading.
Ford 8.8 can be build to go bigger and a lot stronger but requires fab skills.
Disc brakes are a cheap upgrade on an 8.25 and were OE on 8.8s. Regardless whatever axle you get will probably need new brakes so there's not much difference. Disc brakes will keep the shafts from flying out if you snap it as these axles are semi-float.
Retaining ABS is technically possible but a lot more trouble than it's worth IMO. The KJ C8.25 came with ABS but, like the 8.8's, is not compatible with the XJ system. More here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1086957
Consensus seems to be to just ditch it. There are a number of threads flying around on how to do so.
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I am leaning towards the 8.25 because i have read that there is a swap you can do for disc brakes from a grand cherokee fairly easily. I am just worried about the ABS alot. I don't want the braking to be an issue. I know that in my '92, i have the ABS unit that sits to the side of the MC on the driver side of the firewall. And after some reading on another forum, they are saying that i can just pull the relays/fuses and it will still stop correctly.
As a side note. does anyone know if the Detroit True Trac LSD has to to be changed out if i change the gearing from 3.55 to 4.56?
Thanks for all the incite. I really want to rid myself of the D35.
As a side note. does anyone know if the Detroit True Trac LSD has to to be changed out if i change the gearing from 3.55 to 4.56?
Thanks for all the incite. I really want to rid myself of the D35.
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What I meant is that the shaft won't fly out like a busted C-clip axle.
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