I have a 96 jeep cherokee sport for a drive 5 speed. I'm having problems with the go hard to get in the first in second gear and grinding when u put it into reverse. Do I need a new clutch or something else?

 

It could be a clutch not fully disengaging or time for a trans build

 

Clutch or syncros.

 

It only does it every now and then I was going to replace the clutch I just wanted to make sure

 

Is your floor mat bunched up, preventing the clutch pedal from going down all the way?

 

Have no floor mats

 

Or if your clutch master cylinder is leaking by internally, it won't fully release the clutch. A lot cheaper and easier than replacing the clutch. Have you checked the fluid level?
Mine was doing that, if I drove with my foot resting on the pedal, it would slowly ease down a bit, just enough to not have enough travel left to release the clutch. Pumping the pedal (make sure it comes all the way up) got me through until I had time to replace the master cylinder.

 

Ok I check the fluid last night and it was full

 

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding what you're trying to describe... So its difficult to get it into 1st and 2nd ONLY? The whole reverse issue is never going to go away. It's the only gear set you actually mesh and they're straight cut so you need to engage a gear, any gear, to slow the main shaft enough for a quiet engagement. You're actually using that gear's block ring (often referred to as a syncro) to stop the main shaft. If you're ONLY having trouble with those two gears it could be a worn shift fork. The shift forks in the AX-5 and -15 are aluminum and ride against a hardened syncro sleeve. If the operator ever puts pressure on the shifter before a full clutch engagement you can ware the fork because the main shaft is still under load; steel wins over aluminum.

I would definitely try any easy things first. If you want to verify if the blocking rings are worn, you can use a gear that's not showing symptoms to slow/stop the main shaft, then quickly get over to your first or second. If it still grinds, its probably the folk. I just rebuilt my AX-15 and had a worn 3-4 fork, check it out.

Replacement next to damaged piece. You can see the wear on the third gear side; it prevents the syncro sleeve from fully engaging the gear hub, which causes an audible grind. These replacement forks are only ~$30 but its a bit involved to get it installed; lol.



you can see the heat marking on the fork in this picture.

 

unimog, how much did you find your rebuild kit for, lowest I have gotten so far is $192

 

i have a similar issue going on and after talking with my buddy (the tranny guru) he said its syncros causing the grinding. he said you can try to slow down the shifting and it should/could help, what i mean by that is, instead of jamming it into 2nd/3rd real fast from 1st/2nd, pause for a sec and slowly engage it into the next gear. but all in all he said i would need a rebuild done on it to fix it. I see an upcoming weekend project in the works 0.o

 

I think I paid right at that from Trans-star. After buying the "kit" with the blocking rings, I needed that replacement shift fork; I got that from these guys. They were very helpful on the phone and even allowed me to return the third gear hub I also bought, just in case that was related to my issues; so that was nice too. I wish I had found out about them first b/c I didn't order my kit through them. I never asked about the price b/c I had a feeling it might be lower. Give them a ring and see what they can do.

This is what came in my kit, minus the gear lube I bought from Amsoil.



Like I said above that's not always the case but ya it can definitely be those blocking rings (what you're calling syncros). Slow engagements are always good for syncronized transmissions b/c you give the blocking ring more time to slow the gear hub; especially in a 4x4 that's not seeing a drag strip. GL on your rebuild and check out those guys I listed above