5.5"+ lift and 33s...doesn't clear

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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #1  
So i just finished installing my lift. basic parts are rustys 4.5" springs up front and a coiil spacer totaling to 5.75" of lift up front. (measured)

Rear is RE 3.5" full leafs and a 2" shackle for 5.5" of lift.(measured)

wheels n tires- outlaw2 15x10.5 with a 3.75 backspace and a 33x12.5 tire on them.

I figured with 5.5"+ i'd have plenty of clearance for regular driving but not even. Rear is fine but front rubs like crazy if the ground isn't flat or I have to make a turn. rubs right at the bottom of the fender flare/bumper in the front and rear. i need a good inch of clearance to make em work.

here's a pic of the jeep.





any idea why the tires aren't clearing? would bushwackers give me the needed clearance?

I can take more pics of where it hit n stuff if that would help do bushwackers make the opening wider at the bottoms where I'm rubbing?
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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:39 PM
  #2  
Yes Bush wackers would make you clear But you can trim your flares up a bit (not cut fenders) There is alot of plastic on the 97+ flares, they can be trimmed up a bit.

Post pictures of where you are rubbing exactilly and i can walk you thru how trim them.

what control arms are you running?

And great looking lift!
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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #3  
If you get rid of the front bumper corners, and trim up the plastic on the fender a little, you should be fine. I ran 35's on my last 97 I had and never rubbed once I did that. But if you put some bushwackers and an aftermarket front bumber you will be clear as day.
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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #4  
I've got Rough Country lower adjustables but haven't put them in yet was gonna save that for another weekend since this is my daily driver n i needed it running.

ill have pics up in a few of exact place they rub.
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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #5  
a little trim job will take care of it. also make sure you have the correct backspacing wheels for the tires. that will make a world of a difference
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Jun 15, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #6  
Once you put the lower adjustables on you should not rub, as it will center the wheels in the wheel well.

If they do AFTER you put the lower control arms on then you need to trim the trouble areas

With 2 good quality ratchet straps, a good socket set and about an hour you can have the lowers changed out.

Take one center the wheel in the axle(this is where the ratchet straps come in handy) adjust the lower control arm to the length. Then make sure the other control arm matches exactily and instal
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Jun 15, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #7  
Quote: a little trim job will take care of it. also make sure you have the correct backspacing wheels for the tires. that will make a world of a difference
its a 15x10 with a 3.75" backspace and a 33x12.50 tire.

how exactly do you use the ratchet straps to center it? is there a thread about it by chance?

I LOVE this forum. i've been on many car forums n this is by far the most helpful and knowledgeable.

waitin for pics to transfer to comp. here's another pic i have with both of my ladies in it

big n little.
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Jun 15, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #8  
you use the ratchet straps to help you center the axle.

here is a good chart to use to set up your adjustables.

Put them in and then see how they rub-it took me 1 hour exchange mine

 

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Jun 15, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #9  
my bad. i didnt see where you said you didnt put in the control arms. follow what 96 xj said and you will be fine
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Jun 15, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #10  
sweet thats good to hear. i assume those measurements are for center bolt hole to center bolt hole? my first lift, used to lowering stuff. haha
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Jun 15, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #11  
Yes, From bolt hole to bolt hole.

The way i would do it is make one the correct measurement, then stick pen's in the holes of the first one and then adjust the second one to where it lines up perfectly with the first one.

Then remove one arm at a time and replace
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Jun 15, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #12  
here its about an quarter inch but any incline or bump or anything n it rubs real nice



rubs real bad here


i thinw k tithhe control arms there still won't be enough clearance and i really wanna keep my flares or worse for worse go bushwackers.
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Jun 15, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #13  
if you do go bush wackers here is another option:

http://www.napierprecisionproducts.c...hipping-V2.htm

But to fix your rubbing problem now. Trace a line with a grease pen. or a sharpie or whatever you want to mark it with.

Then take a take a blow dryer or something similar to heat up the flare(i use a good warm day with direct sun light) then take a sharp knife-exacto-razor blade and cut out the plastic. A sharp-new- razor blade will cut thru it like butter.


If it were my rig i would make a small sloping line from the trim line down the bottom of the flare and trim that.

A:For the front (if you dont have fog lights) i would trim that entire lower portion off. If i have a front pic i could trace that for you too.

B: just trim like you did the back of the flare


if you really wanted to finish it off, you could put a bit of door trimming on there too

  

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Jun 16, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #14  
I'll deff do that trim once i install those lca's.

do the bustwackers or those other ones gain more clearance behind the tire where i need it? i can't tell.
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Jun 16, 2010 | 02:25 AM
  #15  
Thats exactly what I did. My 32's on 15X10" wheels were rubbing like no other...

I took a dremel with a circular blade that I picked up at the Home Depot to cut through the plastic. Too bad my flares got ripped off while wheeling so it doesn't really matter now...

But if you end up cutting more than the plastic flare in the back and hit metal, be sure to throw door trim on the sharp edges. But either way, its the wheels were running with the 3.75 offset. They are just took stuck out there to turn. But they look good!!!
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