I am looking for assistance in diagnosing a problem I have when 4 hi and 4 lo are engaged. Essentially what I hear is a knocking/grinding sound. Recently, I flushed my transfer case to find a few tablespoons of black liquid containing tiny metal shavings. Nothing was stuck to the drain plug. I flushed my front diff and and the fluid and gears inside looked okay. No noticeable wear. I tested for play in my u-joints but they are snug.

Here is a video of the sound. I am driving on snow/ice. (Squealing at the end is my rear brakes I think).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Q78Q...ature=youtu.be

My guess is that the tc needs to be cracked open and inspected due to the garbage I drained from it. Can someone please verify this or point me in another direction?

Thanks

Vehicle specs:
1995 Cherokee Sport
196000 miles
NP 231
Dana 30
AW4

 

And it only does this when it in 4 wheel drive?

Ive read you can pop the case of the TC without having to pull it out. So there's that. If the metal shavings you seen were small (like meral shving from using a file to file something) and not big chunks I would say that's normal due to the normal wear and tear of things over the years. Now if they were big chunks then ya you got urself a problem and need to pop it open and have a look.

Just for ****s sake double check it's not the exhaust rubbing up against the TC support? Mine was doing that and I could have sworn it was the TC itself.

That's my 2 cents on the matter. Let us know what you find out.

 

Yes. Only in 4wd. Not a peep otherwise.

The shavings were tiny, but with the tendency to clump together. They weren't chunks so I did think what I had found might be the result of the normal wear and tear and probably never being serviced by the PO, ever.

I'll take a more detailed look under there tomorrow to investigate your exhaust rubbing suggestion. Looking for the correct solution before I resort to ripping the tc apart. Thanks!

 

Also I believe there is also a magnet or a the plug it's self is magnetized to draw the savings towards it an hold them there to prevent them from circulating around. I would just double check bolts on the tranny to motor and TC to tranny to ensure they are all tight and not lose. First time I checked my tranny to motor bolts they were so lose I was able to tighten them by hand before needing to use a wrench. Something the PO neglected ever checking.

 

And ya on mine the exhaust only rubbed when it was in gear. Vibration and what not moved it closer to the crossmember causing the issue i had. I needed an extra pair of eyes to figure out it was that.

 

Is the clattering coming from the transfer case area or the front axle/hub area?

 

Good advice. I will check those bolts. It's amazing what one can overlook.

Honestly, it's difficult to tell. Need to get a second person. I am more inclined to say it's coming from the axle region. I wasn't sure if noises emanating from that region would be a symptom of another, say the tc. I was also wondering what components in the front end are more readily subjected to stress than others w/ 4x4 engaged?

 

Chain

 

sound familiar

 

Agree to the chain also. Those metal shavings could be aluminum from the chain scraping the housing some where. Aluminum is non ferrous metal wont stick to a magnet.

 

Yeah and when you hear that sound money won't stick to your wallet.

 

>..lol...

 

I took your guys' suggestions and checked out my tc chain. After draining it, I could feel the chain slapping the bottom of the case by rotating the front tc yoke. Also by feeling inside the drain plug.

I purchased a new chain and have been following the procedures out lined here:

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoChainChange.htm

and here

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...ctures-116382/

Here are some pics:





The issue I am having is how to place the new chain on. Given that this is an NP 231, there isn't a c clip on the front ds gear enabling me to lift it out and place the chain on. I tried wiggling it on by moving the main shaft around but that didn't work out too well. I'm pretty certain the only way to do it is by removing the front yoke and sliding it on that way. Is this correct? If so, how do I get any torque on the yoke nut if the yoke itself spins with the ratchet? I am thinking I have to rig up a way to secure the yoke. Any suggestions?

Thanks

1995 XJ
NP 231
AW4

 

To loosen the yoke, I use a monkey wrench (pipe wrench) on the yoke. Brace it up against something (body) and crank on the pinion nut with a big a$$ ratchet.

 

I was thinking of trying something like that out, thanks. Didn't know if there was any better way.

Upon further research, it looks like I can shift into 4 low to lock the yoke:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/he...-bolt-1476890/

Looks like I have a few options to try out tomorrow. Thanks again.