adamj

The problem has gotten worse over the last year or so...

Shift into 4Hi or lo, doesn't matter, and 4wd seems to work fine.
Shift back into 2hi, and seems like it doesn't want to disengage, or it has disengaged but not fully. I can still feel it in the steering wheel.
I have this unnerving popping/clicking noise when making turns.
I manually checked the shift fork at the transfercase and the linkage is tight, I pushed hard to make sure it was in 2hi.
Now I get this bad sound when turning in both 2/4hi, but it's not as bad as 2hi.
This is done on slippery snow-covered roads (no dry spots). I never engage on dry pavement.
I also can "hear" what I think is the transfer case when engaged. That could just be in my head though, but the sound stops when it is not under load (maybe this is normal)
I tried reversing straight back a few hundred feet to try and disengage, but that did not work.

Auto locking hubs failed?
axle shaft U joints?
front driveshaft u joints?
Transfer case fried?

toasterknight

The hubs are always connected it simply disconnects in the transfer case. When I had a dead u joint in the front axle it felt as if it was still in 4wd while making turns. If the feeling isn't as strong when in 2wd I highly doubt the transfer case is sticking while engaged.

cruiser54

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

crawler487

One of my friends had this problem and he said he backed up in a straight line about 10 to 20 feet then dropped it into neutral and tapped on the transfer case pretty hard with a block of wood and it was enough to drop it out of 4 wheel drive. Not sure if this will work for you but he said it did. He then went home and changed his gear oil and said he hasn't had any problems since.

cruiser54

Nah.....

It's not gear oil but ATF.
And, you bring up a good point. How's the OP's fluid level and condition?

adamj

I'm leaning towards u-joint now after driving it again and the noise is much worse (now I hear it when just driving straight). I have decided to park it and wait till the snow has melted to take a look.

You say the hubs are always connected? So when I am in 2hi are the front driveshaft and axle shafts not spinning?

adamj

Fluid was changed last summer with full synthetic ATF, it was very clean when I changed out the old fluid, but you got me there –*I haven't checked the fluid in a while (Forgot to do my pre-winter checklist, and now winter's here...)

cruiser54

Which transfer case do you have? There's a tag on the back of it. 231 or 242?

Inspect your motor and trans mounts. If they're bad, the case can be hard to shift.

Bushings in the linkage bad?

toasterknight

If the front wheels are turning the axle and driveshaft are spinning.

cruiser54

Not if it's a 90 with a 231......

andrewmp6

Ain't a 90 a cad axle in the front ?

cruiser54

Only if it's a 231. 242 had no CAD.

adamj

90 with np231 and CAD.
231 is better than the 242, right?

freegdr

Depends on who you ask, Me 231 yes.

andrewmp6

Since you have a cad axle i would check that first.