4.0L Renix EXTREME tick and shake! HELP!
I changed my valve cover gasket and found THICK sludge on the cover, lifters, valves, etc.. I cleaned the cover well, but i couldnt do much on the lifters, valves, etc. I used a knife, flat head, razor, etc and destroyed a vacuum to suck a lot of it up but toward the back, lots of loose sludge remained that i had scraped but didnt vacuum. i put RTV, gasket and cover back and turn it on, no problems. i drove it around for 3 min no problems. well i was headed to my gfs, and then a slight tick began. As i neared the neighborhood it was a LOUD tick. as i got near the house, it was sputtering, misfiring, shaking, the RPMS were pulsing, and obnoxious tick. The oil pressure also read 0 on the cluster. I hope i didnt ruin my engine. what oil additive can help? what else can i do?? PLEASE HELP!
If you drive it in the condition it's in you'll cook your engine for sure. So don't
The biggest problem is the jeep is at my Girlfriends house now! Im going to buy Marvel mystery oil additive to see if it will help. its a 10-15min drive home, do yall think itll make it? also if i drop the oil pan, clean the oil pump screen, clean everything else of sludge because i know itll be bad, and reinstall everything with a new gasket, do you think there will be another problem? a more serious one like broken engine components D:
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 328
Likes: 5
From: Dominican Republic
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
The biggest problem is the jeep is at my Girlfriends house now! Im going to buy Marvel mystery oil additive to see if it will help. its a 10-15min drive home, do yall think itll make it? also if i drop the oil pan, clean the oil pump screen, clean everything else of sludge because i know itll be bad, and reinstall everything with a new gasket, do you think there will be another problem? a more serious one like broken engine components D:
Thowing in the mystery oil additive is not going to do anything before you end up seizing the engine.
Pulling the pan isn't that hard. I strongly recommend you do that before you start the engine again. Have a friend tow you home with a chain if you can't afford a tow truck, like F1 said..
Last edited by jdjonesdr; Jan 3, 2013 at 12:17 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 2
From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
My best guess is that some sludge and other crud got loose and clogged the pickup screen, as previously stated. To drop the oil pan can be a major pain in the ***. I had to disconnect my lower shock bolts and steering stabilizer to get the axle to drop enough to clear the pan, and it was still tight and we needed to use a pry bar (very carefully).
-Spend the extra bucks for the fancy blue Felpro reusable rubber gasket with the aluminum inserts around the bolt holes. Never go back to the cork unless you really have to. While you have the pan off, might as well do the rear main seal if that leaks. That's a whole other process (which is why I just recently had my pan off). Spend the extra money for better gaskets, especially reusable ones. It's definitely worth it.
-I'd also recommend not driving it until everything is cleaned out. Inspect the drained oil for any metal shavings, they should glisten in the sun or with a flashlight. Stick a magnet in the oil too and see if anything comes out. Small specs are fine, but bigger shavings or chunks are a no-no. Normal wear will leave little glitter-like specs in the oil, depending on mileage. I'm just about to hit 240k, so I don't really have any specs anymore, haha. My last bearing when I did my RMS was perfect, even score lines and no abnormal wear.
-Drop the pan and clean it all out, then get back to us on what happens. Good luck!
-Spend the extra bucks for the fancy blue Felpro reusable rubber gasket with the aluminum inserts around the bolt holes. Never go back to the cork unless you really have to. While you have the pan off, might as well do the rear main seal if that leaks. That's a whole other process (which is why I just recently had my pan off). Spend the extra money for better gaskets, especially reusable ones. It's definitely worth it.
-I'd also recommend not driving it until everything is cleaned out. Inspect the drained oil for any metal shavings, they should glisten in the sun or with a flashlight. Stick a magnet in the oil too and see if anything comes out. Small specs are fine, but bigger shavings or chunks are a no-no. Normal wear will leave little glitter-like specs in the oil, depending on mileage. I'm just about to hit 240k, so I don't really have any specs anymore, haha. My last bearing when I did my RMS was perfect, even score lines and no abnormal wear.
-Drop the pan and clean it all out, then get back to us on what happens. Good luck!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 2
From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
Hey rooster, if you got a FB check out my club. The link is in my signature. We're not too far out from upper Jersey. Most of us are from the Lehigh Valley area in PA.
check ur pump pickup but if ur looking for an addetive try seafoaming ur engine after u clean the pump pickup screen put half the bottle in oil at the next change and drive it for a few hundred miles and then change ur oil again
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 2
From: Nazareth/Pen Argyl, Pennsylvania
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242ci I6
I never liked seafoam in the oil. It can dislodge crud and clog the pickup yet again. Just clean the sludge out of the pan and leave it at that. Some crud is better to be left in there.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
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From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix



