4.0 connecting rod numbering
#16
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
14 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anybody else wanna chime in and tell me I f**ked up? lol Yes, it's my fault for not numbering them beforehand. I'll admit I'm used to working on Toyota/Nissan engines where they are numbered from the factory
I didn't give the machine shop my crank, therefore they couldn't have suggested what bearing sizes I needed. I mic'd the crank journals myself and determined that standard size bearings would work. I know OEM bearings can be ordered in different grades, but I bought a set of King std. bearings. I used plastigage and as expected, all oil clearances are well within spec both for the mains and rods.
I also just measured the connecting rod end play on each journal and they are all within the 0.010-0.019" spec. As for keeping each end cap with it's correct rod that's easy since they are already stamped with letter combinations from the factory. At least Chrysler had that much foresight.
I didn't give the machine shop my crank, therefore they couldn't have suggested what bearing sizes I needed. I mic'd the crank journals myself and determined that standard size bearings would work. I know OEM bearings can be ordered in different grades, but I bought a set of King std. bearings. I used plastigage and as expected, all oil clearances are well within spec both for the mains and rods.
I also just measured the connecting rod end play on each journal and they are all within the 0.010-0.019" spec. As for keeping each end cap with it's correct rod that's easy since they are already stamped with letter combinations from the factory. At least Chrysler had that much foresight.
#17
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: central IN
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
welcone to the internet
it sounds like you know what you're doing. the rod position doesn't matter as long as they are within spec. you know what you're doing. the only additional step i would've taken is having that crank polished. my guy charges $30 to clean, polish and verify everything is still ok. however, if it was good when you pulled it there won't be an issue. keep at it and report back.
it sounds like you know what you're doing. the rod position doesn't matter as long as they are within spec. you know what you're doing. the only additional step i would've taken is having that crank polished. my guy charges $30 to clean, polish and verify everything is still ok. however, if it was good when you pulled it there won't be an issue. keep at it and report back.
#19
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)