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35 to 8.25" Upgrade

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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #16  
muddeprived's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BowtieGuy3
Well for starters, you don't crank the bleeders wide open. Loosen them just enuff to allow fluid to drip. As for keeping the fluid level full in the M/C, You'll have the cap off, so overfill the hell out of it and just keep an eye on things every so often and top off as necessary.
If you want a really neat trick, go and order a set of bleeders with the check valve in it. Once you get those installed, brake bleeding is a simple one man job, then all you need is an empty jar and a short length of hose to collect what comes out.
Tip: use never-seize on the threads of all the bleeders, wether you get new ones or not, just don't get the never-seize on rubber components.
Here's the link to Summit's page for them...
http://http://store.summitracing.com...alse&N=700+115
Link's not working but you mean these?

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=9558

Any idea what size the 8.25's and dana 30's bleeders are? I see summit has alot of different size bleeders.
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 02:47 PM
  #17  
BowtieGuy3's Avatar
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From: South Side Chicago
Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
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Yeah, those, Summit got them for a buck cheaper, but that's nothing. Link is fixed. As for the size, I have no idea, but you can ***** out your local parts store to match them up (they usually have them in a drawer out on the sales floor). The parts guy could maybe tell you also, but I wouldn't rely on that too much.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #18  
89Pioneer's Avatar
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Year: 1989 2x
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Straight 6
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We did the reverse thing. Driving backwards then breaking hard. We adjusted then manually by turning the wheel with teeth. I think I left like 3 or 4 threads open. I haven't had a chance to bleed the corners yet. I'll get to it.
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