Thanks Spencer!!! I have been looking for a splash shield for my '91 for some time. Even the salvage yards had nothing usable. The shield makes repairs more difficult but it should keep things cleaner and protect the alternator from water.

 

At long last and after one was lost in the mail, Summit came through in 2 days, with a 2 row CSF radiator. It installed without effort. Its a hair wider than the Spectra so I had to shave 1/4" off the bottom of the shroud to slide it down past the clutch. It had a made in Indonesia tag on it and the paint, soldering etc looks great. Didnt leak either! So after installing all new wetted parts (except for the engine block which is super clean) I did some rudimentary testing up a nearby hill and all worked fine. Whether it made things 'better/cooler', I didnt get that far as it was only 90d out. I went ahead and is lifted the back of the hood 3/4" and I didnt do any harm. Stabilized the temp if anything. It left a 1/2"+ gap (29 sq in) for air to exchange through.

So here are a few photos. The CSF transmission cooler tube has 2/3 the surface area of the Spectra. Same length, 1" vs 1 1/2" diameter. Less heat transfer from the trans oil and doesnt block the outlet near as much. I took some scope pics to compare to in a year or so. All in all Id say it has about the same heat transfer characteristics as the single row Spectra. BUT... its all brass & copper. My CJ5 all metal radiator is 30 yo and still in great shape. I replaced the 1st one at 20 years when I did a rebuild.
So to keep the shiny new cooling system in tip top shape, Ill install a side stream WIX cooling base & filter (the one with the restrictor as it doesnt need full flow to do the job). Itll mount out of the way, (because it can) centered on the engine, attached to the front cross member. Theres a neat little place thats right for it. I still need to install a heater core before the cold weather, so thats a good time to do it.
Also put in a Hayden cooler, about twice the size as stock. Shifting improved right away. I ran the hose from the rad using the existing connector. Cut it a couple inches past the 90 and drilled a 5/8" hole behind the left headlight, then straight to the cooler inlet. It shortened the line distance and reduced some line restriction. Also doesn't trap oil when the engine is off. It all goes back to the pan.

Also put in a variable fan switch and will play with the settings for it to activate. Tap the Tsat housing for 1/8" npt and connect to an OE replacement fan. Probably a TYC.

The cap fits better on a metal spout than a plastic one.

Workmanship is not to shabby

Two row core. Clean and hope to keep it that way.

The trans oil tube is 1" diameter. Heat transfer is greater when its clean

 

I installed a Hayden 678 transmission cooler, its at least twice the size of the OE unit. Plumbed it so all the fluid will drain back to the pan. Its a nice unit and along with the CSF radiator which has a smaller oil HX in the discharge header, I did notice smoother shifting.

Fairly clean install. Took Simpson straps from HD, painted them, bent in strategic angles and mounted to the upper radiator support and front cross member. Its in front of the mech fan so always has air flow across it. Notice the fan and headlight control wireing under the radiator support. Out of the way!

Drilled a 3/4" hole behind the left head light and routed the hose that came with the unit from the oil heater outlet on the rad, to the top port of the cooler. When the engine is off, all oil drains back to the tranny pan.

View where I cut the existing 3/8" supply line, spun it to route through the sheet metal behind the left headlight. Its not there yet but I sleeved the tubing to prevent vibration damage to the hose. You end up with a 4" 180 bend.

 

I bought an adjustable fan switch from Mishimoto. Derale sells the same device ($10 cheaper) but with a 3/8" transmitter. I needed the 1/8" as it fit into a sensor adapter I had. Also replaced the stock electric fan with an OE TYC from Taiwan. They are identical but the TYC is noticeably quieter and 'seems' to move more air. Installed an LED carling switch for the override feature. Well worth the extra ducketts.
So I started this thread due to a complete failure of a Spectra radiator. Installed a CSF 2 row to replace it and happy with the purchase and install. To sum things up. I did my 'not so scientific' test driving up a hill, w&wo AC on on the hottest part of the day and temps look to be about 10d cooler. Maxs out about 230ish and reacts to easing off the gas, coasting, going down hill and AC off. Having the fan switch with the override was defiantly helpful. So whats left is a WIX coolant filter installed behind the front bumper, plumbed as a side stream as its just as effective as the full flow install. Been working fine on chiller/HW systems for decades.

So pictures are worth a 1000 words.........

Mishimoto adjustable fan switch placement. Could have been a hair higher to access the adjuster but its a set and forget and I used an eyeglass screwdriver and stood on one foot. Switched 12v power comes from the radio R/W wire. Its set to come on at ~195d,

1/8" transmitter into a 32mm sleeve. Stll have to trim the clamp bands.

The carling switch fit nicely. I hate to cut into stock panels but it looks like it belongs there. Theres an option to run it to the AC compressor hot terminal as well.

The coolant is clear so far, mean to keep it that way. Fleetguard also make a non additive filter thats supposedly wont rust like the WIX version. Lines are 1/2" since its a sidestream.

 

You certainly got a lot of work done! Did you ever determine the main factor in your overheating experience? Have done and exhaust gas check or even a pressure test on the system and new cap? The cost to do these two tests is minimal and certainly wouldn't hurt to do, even with a newly installed cooling system.



Todd

 

Remember, greater flow rate is not always the answer. The coolant has to reside in the radiator long enough to off load the heat. Admittedly, the issue normally is a restricted flow rate, but I've seen engines run hotter by removing the thermostat. Just additional food for thought..................

 

thanks for the test Todd! when I get my warranty replacement radiator I will be performing both these. to the rest of this thread, wow there is a ton of information.