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2001 Jeep Cherokee cracked head

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Old May 20, 2020 | 09:56 PM
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Default 2001 Jeep Cherokee cracked head

So it’s official, heard a ticking noise since I bought her 1.5 weeks ago and thought it was maybe lifters. Finally removed valve cover today and started her up and there was a constant flow of green. I don’t really know where to go from here, just spent $5k on her and I’m pretty sure they guy had to of known he only had her three months. Do I just replace the head and call it good? Or do I look into a new engine? Take it easy it’s my first Jeep and I didn’t know what I was looking for, I knew this year had a common head crack but the guy said it wasn’t cracked and I believed him. I messed up and I know it but now I need to know what to do next, anyone have a similar situation? Photos aren’t the best I know


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Old May 20, 2020 | 10:58 PM
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From: Santa Clarita California
Year: 2001
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Just go to the pick & pull and get one from a 2003 grand cherokee 4.0L that has a TUPY head . they are the same head but stronger and doesn't crack . That's what I did .
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Old May 20, 2020 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tech
Just go to the pick & pull and get one from a 2003 grand cherokee 4.0L that has a TUPY head . they are the same head but stronger and doesn't crack . That's what I did .
Did you take it to get machined in anyway? Also I had a ticking noise before I stopped driving her, im worried a new head wont fix bottom end engine noise.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Gebert530
...just spent $5k on her and I’m pretty sure they guy had to of known he only had her three months. ... I need to know what to do next...
Get a



and go back and **** that guy up.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 05:12 AM
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Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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How's your oil pressure? That's the determining factor. If the coolant damaged the bearings, you may need a rebuild or a replacement. OR just drive it until it blows, then worry about it. If it were mine and money is an issue, I'd slap a junkyard head on it and drive it while I made arrangements to do it right. The biggest thing to check on a junkyard head is for burnt valves. Fill the chambers with kerosene or mineral oil and see it the valves hold the oil from leaking into the passages. If they don't leak, put it on and drive it. JMHO.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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I had a similar issue with my 01'. The PO had to know when he sold it to me. Mine was losing coolant from the overflow jug weekly. It never got into my oil though. I drove it that way for a year before buying an Odessa head.
p.s. I've never bought another 00-01' 4.0L Jeep. It's a 50/50 chance and I always lose.

Last edited by TheBoogieman; May 21, 2020 at 08:05 AM.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 08:09 AM
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From: CharlottesHELL VA
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Get a



and go back and **** that guy up.
Lucille looks awfully clean.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 09:11 AM
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Same thing happened to me you can check my build thread below for my thought process throughout. Honestly what I didn't do which you might is take a look at the lemon law and maybe just threaten it for some $$ back of a return of the vehicle. It sucks but realistically that may be your best option now before you get hip deep in this thing. As mentioned above oil pressure is the determining factor. When it's at hot idle it can't be below 12 or 13 psi. I forget the exact spec. If your oil pressure is still good and you plan to keep the vehicle I bought new from clearwater heads for around $400. The first one they sent me was damaged and it was a fairly involved job but not rocket science. Good luck!
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Old May 21, 2020 | 09:17 AM
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Here's what to look for in a later Jeep head;
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Old May 21, 2020 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
How's your oil pressure? That's the determining factor. If the coolant damaged the bearings, you may need a rebuild or a replacement. OR just drive it until it blows, then worry about it. If it were mine and money is an issue, I'd slap a junkyard head on it and drive it while I made arrangements to do it right. The biggest thing to check on a junkyard head is for burnt valves. Fill the chambers with kerosene or mineral oil and see it the valves hold the oil from leaking into the passages. If they don't leak, put it on and drive it. JMHO.
oil pressure is about 13 when hot idle, does not fluctuate at all stays in place when idling. When moving gets to around 40 and then slowly back to 13 when I stop. I’m done driving her until this is fixed so hopefully I can just put a new head on her and call it good. Going to drop the oil pan tonight to make sure there is nothing broken off.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ixanay_on-the_exjay
Same thing happened to me you can check my build thread below for my thought process throughout. Honestly what I didn't do which you might is take a look at the lemon law and maybe just threaten it for some $$ back of a return of the vehicle. It sucks but realistically that may be your best option now before you get hip deep in this thing. As mentioned above oil pressure is the determining factor. When it's at hot idle it can't be below 12 or 13 psi. I forget the exact spec. If your oil pressure is still good and you plan to keep the vehicle I bought new from clearwater heads for around $400. The first one they sent me was damaged and it was a fairly involved job but not rocket science. Good luck!
yeah I’m looking at Clearwater as well, oil pressure is great so hopefully I don’t also have a bad piston skirt since mine is making a tapping sound. I’ll drop the oil pan today and check it out. Thank you
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Old May 21, 2020 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBoogieman
I had a similar issue with my 01'. The PO had to know when he sold it to me. Mine was losing coolant from the overflow jug weekly. It never got into my oil though. I drove it that way for a year before buying an Odessa head.
p.s. I've never bought another 00-01' 4.0L Jeep. It's a 50/50 chance and I always lose.
next time if I get this year I’ll instantly check the head and replace it with a Clearwater head. Maybe even get the seller to take that off the price or just walk away. I love my Jeep even though it’s only been 1.5 weeks. Everything I’ve repaired so far has been fun.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 12:21 PM
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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just for general information, the "Clearwater" head is made by Odessa Cylinder Head in Clearwater, FL in case you didn't know. Price in 2015 was $455 complete with valves and springs, and shipping BOTH ways (core return). Waranteed for 60 months against cracking unless overheated. It has a 260* melt tag on the back of it. I got mine in 3 days because they had a regional warehouse near NYC.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dave1123
just for general information, the "Clearwater" head is made by Odessa Cylinder Head in Clearwater, FL in case you didn't know. Price in 2015 was $455 complete with valves and springs, and shipping BOTH ways (core return). Waranteed for 60 months against cracking unless overheated. It has a 260* melt tag on the back of it. I got mine in 3 days because they had a regional warehouse near NYC.
I did not know that, thank you for the info. I’ll drop my oil pan today and make sure the only issue is the cracked head. Oil pressure and everything else seems to run great so I think I’m safe but I’ll find out.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 02:32 PM
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If you are taking the oil pan off I would put a high volume oil pump in . just make sure it clears the block , some need to be cleared so the pump will sit right . and when I got the used tupy head I jchecked all the valves to see that they were good then I relaped the valve seats to make sure they had a good seal and replaced the valve seals , it's been on now for about 8 months and no problems and runs good .
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