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2001 - Coolant/Antifreeze leaking from drivers side of head - Please advise
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Big thank you for that information Ralph. As far as the 0331, I have to change the freeze plugs so I figured I would inspect the side and bottom of the 0331 for cracks before deciding on if I want to go ahead and put the 0630 in. Either way the intake and exhaust manifold was going to be taken off for the freeze plugs and pulling the head isn’t very hard once your that far lol.
It is putting all that effort into a 0331 head that might appear/test good, fix the freeze out plug, but still crack down the line.
The general consensus is if you have to remove the head for any reason don't waste your time with it at all. Unless it is a TUPY 0331 head.
Guessing you need the Jeep. Hence going through the trouble of putting on the 0630 head.
If this were me I would put on the 0630 head, buy the adapter, run the Viper coil mod, and if everything works out call it a day.
And start a little slush fund for a Clearwater head for if and when the day comes that you need to replace the 0630 head.
Or since you already have the adapter and did the Viper coil mod just run older heads from this point on.
Is it really necessary to take the head to a machine shop to be cleaned ? I feel like I can clean it up with wire wheels schotchbrite and some muriatic acid in a spray bottle by myself before inspection and installation.
There is much more to it than just cleaning. How do you know the valves are sealing or the valve guides are not worn and leaking oil? These are the kind of things a machine shop will repair. You can take a gamble and install the head as is and hope the valves are sealing or you could install the head and find you have no compression in one or more cylinders. If that happens then you get to take the head back off and take it to the machine shop. I have been a mechanic since 1972 and I would never bolt on a used head and hope it works without sending it to a machine shop first unless you just want to get it running long enough to sell it.
Last edited by Steve Hayes; 03-26-2020 at 06:44 PM.
Old school method; take a rubber hammer and "bounce" the valves a couple of times, then set it up on the bench chambers up and pour some mineral oil into each chamber. Watch the ports for leaking oil. if no leaks, put new stem seals in it and bolt it on. Use a straightedge to check for it being flat before doing this. Check for burn marks between the chambers also. I'm with Steve though. Unless you're building a budget dirt track race car for fun, send it to a shop.
It cost me $200 to have my Clearwater head reconditioned with 2 new valves, grinding, stem seals, cleaned, and the surface checked.
Made my own hot tank and have the 0331 in it right now. I didn’t see any cracks on it anywhere. Will see what it looks like once it’s all cleaned up This is the 0331 before I pulled the valves Homemade hot tank for cleaning the head After pulling the head Lol 3 gallons of Purple power and 25 gallons of water.
There is much more to it than just cleaning. How do you know the valves are sealing or the valve guides are not worn and leaking oil? These are the kind of things a machine shop will repair. You can take a gamble and install the head as is and hope the valves are sealing or you could install the head and find you have no compression in one or more cylinders. If that happens then you get to take the head back off and take it to the machine shop. I have been a mechanic since 1972 and I would never bolt on a used head and hope it works without sending it to a machine shop first unless you just want to get it running long enough to sell it.
yes I talked with a machine shop they wanted 250 to clean it, replace the valve stem seals and check it for cracks with magnaflux. I’m going to hot tank it. Replace the valve stem seals and magnaflux it myself with a aerosol can and a uV light. If i find cracks im going to hot tank the 0630 head and rinse repeat. I’m going to use a high grit sanding wheel to clean up anything on the mating surfaces and put a new gasket set on it.
I’m going to use a high grit sanding wheel to clean up anything on the mating surfaces and put a new gasket set on it.
I strongly recommend use of only carb cleaner and a razor blade to remove carbon and remaining gasket material from the block and manifold mating surfaces. Avoid use of wire wheel, abrasive disc, 3M Roloc disc or sandpaper. Abrasives used in wheels and the like are extremely sharp and hard. Any material that gets into close clearance areas such as bearings and cylinder walls can quickly do serious damage. Both GM and Ford have issued service bulletins warning against these practices. You also risk scratching or gouging the surface such that a good seal is compromised. I have written about this in several posts on this forum. Cleanliness is important to help ensure a good outcome. You don’t want to do more harm than good.
When I did the head on my 2000 I used tape to protect against debris going down the pushrod and oil gallery holes and plastic wrap over everything when I was not working on it.
You will find it much easier to install the manifolds onto the head prior to installing the head on the block. Otherwise it is very difficult to properly torque the bolts. A crow foot wrench or torque wrench adapter also makes the task of getting proper torque easier but you need to adjust the values for the added length. I have posted that info on this forum in the past but if you have questions let me know and I will find the calculation details. Proper torque on manifold and head bolts is important.
I'm a tad late here but my advise is to buy brass plugs for the block. The steel Crown Automotive ones I bought were too big and we're only talking 0.020" too large.
You've already done the difficult part of the job getting to them, if you haven't already, drop the coolant from the lower rad hose, use a punch or screw driver to knock the old ones out and a pair of pliers to pull them out of the block. Also grab a magnet and have a good scoop around inside behind each plug. I must have picked out half of the plugs in wieght in rust that knocked off when hitting them out. Although when watching videos on removing them they always tried to avoid knocking them into the block, all of mine went in and I had no issue pulling them out.
Give each hole a quick cleaning with some fine wet and dry, make sure they are dry, apply some sealant and knock them in with a similar diameter socket.
When I did the head on my 2000 I used tape to protect against debris going down the pushrod and oil gallery holes and plastic wrap over everything when I was not working on it.
You will find it much easier to install the manifolds onto the head prior to installing the head on the block. Otherwise it is very difficult to properly torque the bolts. A crow foot wrench or torque wrench adapter also makes the task of getting proper torque easier but you need to adjust the values for the added length. I have posted that info on this forum in the past but if you have questions let me know and I will find the calculation details. Proper torque on manifold and head bolts is important.
did you install new head bolts? I took the head to a machine shop today after I cleaned it last night. They magnafluxed it and said the 0331 has no cracks and he recommended trying to stick with the 0331 instead of the 0630. He has been doing auto heads and blocks for 40 years. He is going to do a valve job and also said the head has a slight warp which is common for inline 6s and is going to machine the warp down to flat
I'm a tad late here but my advise is to buy brass plugs for the block. The steel Crown Automotive ones I bought were too big and we're only talking 0.020" too large.
You've already done the difficult part of the job getting to them, if you haven't already, drop the coolant from the lower rad hose, use a punch or screw driver to knock the old ones out and a pair of pliers to pull them out of the block. Also grab a magnet and have a good scoop around inside behind each plug. I must have picked out half of the plugs in wieght in rust that knocked off when hitting them out. Although when watching videos on removing them they always tried to avoid knocking them into the block, all of mine went in and I had no issue pulling them out.
Give each hole a quick cleaning with some fine wet and dry, make sure they are dry, apply some sealant and knock them in with a similar diameter socket.
I actually flushed all the water jackets in the block with my pressure washer and also used engine brite on the sides of the block and then pressure washed it off. I’m going to paint the drivers side with engine block enamel. I wire ground my manifolds down to bare and then sprayed pb blaster all over and wiped it off and then painted them with VHT paint 2000degree rated I’m going to install brass 2 inch plugs tomorrow with rtv red.
Yes, I used new head bolts. You can reuse the existing one time if you are certain they have never been reused. I used high quality OE type by Mahle, P/N GS33414. I paid about $25 three years ago. I figured for the cost it was worth it. You will want to torque in the specified sequence to the specified values. The bolts by the firewall can be a pain to get a torque wrench onto but doable.
Make sure all the engine block head bolt holes are clean and dry, same for the head bolts. Do not use anti-seize on the head bolts. Follow bolt manufacture directions on if to lubricate or not. For the Mahle bolts info said to lightly oil the bolt threads and bolt head seat surface. To help align the head onto the block make guide pins from a piece of threaded rod or a long bolt with the head cutoff that will fit into one or two block head bolt holes. Cut a slot into one end so that you can use a standard screwdriver to insert and remove the guide. The guide pins helps get the head into the correct position on the block without damaging the surfaces or the new head gasket. You will also need to preposition the left rear head bolt into the head prior to installation. If the head goes in without the bolt it is almost impossible to get it in due to interference with the cowl sheet metal. Hold the bolt partially up with some tape wrapped around the shank of the bolt to help prevent interference as you install the head.
You might check your driver side motor mount and change it if it looks like it is breaking down or is deformed. It is much easier to do now with all the stuff out of the way. Wish I had done mine when I had the head off.
Thanks. The right side motor mount looks good since it’s an 01. The rubber doesn’t have any cracks. Thanks for the info on getting the head back on. I am attaching some photos of what I worked on today. Mainly getting a new timing chain on and some paint work Under driver bumperette New timing set and engine block paint over the black vht paint Painted the ac condenser after hot tanking it. Used some rust barrier black paint (only black I have left seems like jeeps eat black paint lol) Painting the thermo housing valve cover timing cover and oil pan all orange. Head will be black What a mess Sons Jeep he’s 16 and hates the color lol
03-26-2020, 01:19 AM
