NCMetalMechanic

ok, so im having the dreaded "no bus/security system" problem. truck starts, stalls, security light goes solid, 15 seconds later, no bus on the cluster. I've chased it to the pcm, or possibly the wiring, but swapping out a cheap computer would be an easy test to see if its the problem. except, i cant find one. I swear, every car i own/have owned has california emissions, and im on the freakin east coast.
i work at a junkyard, so i can get just about anything...except for a 2000 xj california computer. out of 2000 cars we have right now, not one 00xj cali. SO, since the 99, 00, and 01 computers are all specific to their respective years, can i use a federal emissions computer instead of the cali computer i have now? i believe the difference is a leak detection pump in the cali jeeps. i can see why a federal car with a cali pcm could be a problem, because the pcm would be looking for signals that arent there. So i guess the real question is, would a cali jeep with a federal PCM have problems if the pcm is hypothetically getting signal its not looking for???

freegdr

Plug it in whats worst can happen it don't run right now...

salad

Federal Emissions just has the big main cat with two O2 sensors, Cali has the two mini cats as well and four O2 sensors. Might be some hassle if you end up going that way.

Certainly no barrier to trying it though...

CCKen

Maybe it's the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module that's bad and not the PCM.

salad

Isn't that integrated into the PCM?

CCKen

The SKIS function is a function within the PCM but the SKIM is on the steering column, installed around the ignition key cylinder.

There are three players in the SKIS nightmare:

The SKIM, Transponder Key, and the PCM.

If any of these components are replaced, the vehicle must be taken to the dealer to have the KEY/PCM reprogramed.

I'll post pics of the SKIM after I get done puking up the beer I drank last night.

CCKen

SKIM pics.

SKIM:



SKIM Connector:



SKIM Installed:

NCMetalMechanic

if the SKIM is causing the "no bus", then when i disconnect it, the "no bus" should disappear(or turn key off, unplug, turn key on, cluster works) but the "no bus" remains.

CCKen

Are you anticipating doing this or have you done this?

Kind of stumped on what you are trying to say.

NCMetalMechanic

sorry, dog was barking, got up in the middle of that post, lol. i already tried disconnecting the skim, both while the ignition was on, and also turned it off then back on with it unplugged. i also disconnected the harness for the crank position sensor(since they have given me problems on the wifes wj). the 'no bus' remains with those disconnected, so i can assume they are not the issue. also went out today and pulled the cluster, cleaned the contacts, and dielectric greased then, so the cluster is not the issue either

CCKen

With the SKIM disconnected, does the Jeep start and keep running? Do all your gauges work?

NCMetalMechanic

i didnt try starting it after i disconnected it. but the "no bus" message still comes up along with the solid security light and non working gauges, when i had the skim disconnected. i assume that if the skim or something else is mixing up signals causing the "no bus" code, that if i disconnect what ever is causing the no bus code, that the cluster will go back to my odometer, and gauges functioning.

no the gauges do not work

CCKen

Try starting it and see if it continues to run.

NCMetalMechanic

i went out to try and start it with the skim unplugged. i tried, it ran for 2-3 seconds, then shut off...still same problem. so i got under the dash and started wiggling connectors....the main underdash harness(bolts into the firewall connector maybe?) the big loom that runs next to the obd to another connector(maybe 24-30 wires) seemed tight, but i got another 3 full turns on the 10mm bolt that holds it together...popped up from under the dash and i had my odometer back, still with security light. turned it off, tried again and it fired up and runs like a champ. im dissapointed that its been down 5 weeks(mostly because i havent wanted to deal with it) over something stupid, but, glad that its fixed, with no cost to me(and no wire splicing!). I've always said a mechanic shouldnt work on his own car, lol

Thanks for all the input, ya'll got me thinking in the right direction

CCKen

I was looking for a follow up from the other day. I was worried that the hogs ate ya.

Are the gauges still inop and are you still getting a nobu5? Or does "i had my odometer back" mean the nobu5 has gone awy?