TopGunRMNP

I Thank you massively, if you take the time to check this thread out, there is a ton of info here, but it helps explain the Jeep's history. I have not been on here much, also I do not own a Jeep. I own a 2004 SRT4 with 145,xxx 398whp and 32mpg, that's my love. My lady on the other hand, got hooked on a pretty Red Dragon that i named Scarlett. She has a 2000 XJ 4.0 i6 + 4spd Auto.

The body + trans have about 180,xxx on it and the body seems in great shape. (AZ car) At roughly 5,000 miles ago the all-mighty 4.0HO went "KA-PUT!" This immediately raised a Red-Flag to me, as I know several XJ's in the 200-300,xxx range doing just fine. The previous owner of this must have gone for quick looks and NO maintenance... The Jeep appears to have a 2" sky-jacker lift of some sort. I see Sky-J brand shocks and stock coils, with what looks like a low quality squished body spacer. The front end has no travel room, the rear appears to have adequate room for what trails she wants to do.

The 4.0HO went "KAPUT" due to the mechanical oil pump shaft snapping, something getting lodged somewhere, and ending with an actual snapped crank. Catastrophic failure of some sort. Now, that I am looking at pricing and Jeeps for the lady again, I see that an engine rebuild should have ran us around $1,800-$2,000 for a turn key? Well, the "TRANSMISSION Shop" that the Jeep was bough from and brought to for service said, well it would cost way too much to rebuild it, we will start looking for a swap for you. He found an engine that was also from AZ and was from an insurance company with 90,xxx on it. Out the door it cost her $3,000 for the new engine and install, which I thought was a generous price. (As much of a PITA I think this place is, they are actually nice guys)

Going back in time a little bit, one of the times I was under the Jeep looking for a rattle, that happened to be the exhaust rattling on the X-member due to a snapped/missing bracket, I noticed that the starter was barely attached to the flywheel/trans housing and was why the Jeep was the absolute loudest vehicle I have ever heard when starting. I tightened them up, to see that I could also see the FlyWheel and I thought there was a massive crack or hole from that area. Some research shows me that the "Flywheel Dust Cover" lower section is missing and that needs replacing as well, unsure how long it has been driven like that.

Now, the engine has been replaced I notice a new interesting issue with the transmission, it's as if the "solenoid control system" (which I know is not a real thing) is under some sort of on/off cycle. You turn the Jeep on and drive down the HWY and it stays in 3rd and won'ft shift to OD, you pull over turn it off and turn it back on, get back to HWY speed and then it shifts to OD just fine. Obviously a solenoid issue, and I planned to do a solenoid "rebuild/replace" soon to save money and stay from the shop. After I noticed this happening for some time, the main trans-fluid line underneath the front passenger seat blew out and the trans lost all juice and the car died. Towed back to the "Big T Auto/trans" and they replaced the bubble flange piece and plastic tab, unsure what did it and sent us on our way. I would have guessed a build in pressure was the reason for this failure, and not a random occurrence...

Now to today, MOAB is not our home town, or even a regular play ground. We try to get there at least once a year though and enjoy the Jeep, as it is, A JEEP! Our last trip a few days ago proved to be a 7-essay test for the Cherokee, in which it failed. We scrambled our way to mile 2.0 on Hell's Revenge when I managed to bottom/ high center the Jeep and then get it off the rocks, I backed up and we noticed black fluid on the ground. I figured, well that oil pan was a little leaky and it looked like some kid at Midas long ago whacked the drain plug back on too hard ad there is a small crack by the plug hole. I figured I hit that and it wasn't too bad of a thing, the fluid dripping started to increase so we decided to backtrack and get out. It was a slow day and we didn't mess anyone's course up or get in the way and made our way out of Hell's Revenge from the start point. Went to the nearest shop to get it looked at.

(Insert Comedy Break) I asked this burly fella sitting in a chair eating a burger, if he could help us out and that "I think i'm in the right place." He responded with a light chuckle and serious tone of, "well I'm not so sure about that, you brought me a station wagon." -hahaha We crawled under and noticed the fluid and where it was coming from, the transmission main seal is believed to be the issue, and the fluid is black and toasty. (I realized it was this color long before while at "Big T's CrapAuto" and they told me, that's fine and they never change the fluid in their XJ trans... Another Red Flag. Regardless, unless this engine blows up soon as well, we will not be going back there.

So, we decided to cut our trip short and head back to Colorado, we live in Estes Park, near RMNP and were on i70, roughly around Georgetown, CO when the light smoke trail we were making the whole way turned into a massive cloud and we pulled over. Ol' Scarlett had had enough, the trans was puking everywhere and hot as could be. The Jeep is now sitting at a shop with some nice folks running it, and we need a new tranny. I realize this is the AW4 transmission for this year/model and have found this listing online: http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4081397086.html. --Does the A-500 = AW4? Also, I have read that there is a reputable Jeep company somewhere near Denver that sells freshly rebuilt Transmissions and I think Engines, is it transtechauto, jeepsunlimited, or walkertrans that I am thinking of?

I have sent an interested email to the craiglist trans in the link, explaining this story in much less detail, what should we do next? She has already spent more $ on this D@mn thing than she bought it for within the past year.

If you took the time to read this and to respond, I really really thank you!The Dana 30 and 35 have been doing great and I have read to be careful with those when "crawling" which we do very little of. I would like this to be a bullet proof beast after this trans swap and some other add-ons, but I fear it will be problem after problem. Her last visit at "Big Jokes Auto" told her that her T-case had a leak in a spot that they said was really bad and it would be going out soon...

So my questions I guess are:
1) What direction to go with trans?
2) Was our engine replacement smart or a ripoff?
3) What can I do to the front end to level out the lift, or a cheap lift I could do?
4) What are the combos of engine/trans/t-case/dana numbers and what are the best I should try for to build this "bullet proof."
5) Tell me everything will be okay!?



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oh... and those Hella's don't work either, along with the hazards coming on when turning left, and the right brake light not working.

Firestorm500

The black trans fluid you ignored earlier came back to bite you hard.

Put a new transmission in it if she wants to keep the Jeep. If not, put a used one in it and sell it.

The engine swap seems OK for a turnkey job at retail prices if the engine was documented to have 90K miles on it. Many on here will say it was too high, that they know a guy that would have done it for a case of beer, etc. but that's not reality in the commercial world.

TopGunRMNP

Thank you for the quick and accurate response. We have always been "MoPar or No Car" me, more so than her, and would never think of purchasing an import. As of recently we have had our eyes caught by the little-known Isuzu VehiCROSS, and it seems like the perfect fit for what we would like and the uniqueness. So, as you were referring, it is getting to the point of slap a "newer" trans and sell it, or to put a fresh rebuild in it and keep it. I wish that I had gone with the fresh rebuild of the engine too, to make everything seem a bit more kosher.

XJpax

I read through your post, and while I am new to THIS forum, I've been active in the Jeep community for 13 years and in a simialr situation as you are.

1) I would just replace the transmission. The AW-4 is bulletproof, assuming it is maintained well. the PO's apparent lack of maintenance, combined with the other issues make replacing it a no-brainer and likely you're only and most economical option. A good, rebuilt AW-4 should run you about $1000, plus install. The install is not difficult, but from your engine dilemma it appears you may not be comfortable with that swap. I suggest souring the tranny yourself, and finding a reputable shop to install. Have you looked into FnJeep in Colorado springs? They can probably get you a good, used tranny if a rebuilt is too pricey, and can do it for you or point you towards a jeep-specific shop.

2) It was both. It was smart to do, that kind of mileage, maintenance, and the fact that multiple thigns happened, a new engine was a good choice. to properly rebuild at that mileage you'd be looking at new pistons, boring, machining the head to plane again. It probably has also overheated, and I'd guess if your head wasn't cracked or warped, it would be shortly. Do you know what casting the head on the new motor is? If it is 00-01, probably 0331 which sucks, but just keep due diigence on the coolant. $3000 was pricey, but not ridiculous. A used motor with that mileage prepped and installed with new fluids and associated costs is usually $2500-2750 for a shop to do. Less if you know 'em well, more if you're a complete stranger. Not a total ripoff, but you paid decent pop for it. I hope it came with some warranty as well?

3) I'm confused on your "body spacer" front lift. Are you referring to the coil spacer? Of course, Cherokees can't have "body lifts", and a "squishy" spacer is just the stock puck probably. they were rubber, and aftermarket lift spacers are typically urethane. I suggest getting new ones in the 1" or 2" variety to level out the front end. A jeep approach is the salvage some stock ones from the JY and stack them to level it out. Take some measurements beforehand and you'll know how many you need and can do it once. What size tires are you running? does the rear have a lift? block? shackle? AAL?

4) That's a VERY difficult question to answer. you could get an atlas and all the workings, and hell get some Dana 60 axles, but you'd be losing the roadworthiness to a degree and throwing some serious time and cash into it. What t-case do you have? you could ditch the ABS brakes and get a direct-swap Chryco 8.25 rear axle froma donor cherokee and it would be a bit stronger and a easy swap.

5) Everything will be OK in the end. If it's not OK, it's not the end. Just look at it as investments for the future. When you buy a used car, you inherit a ton of problems. Everything you get fixed [properly] gives you the peace of mind that it's been accounted for.

I just purchased a new '01 and am slowly fixing all of mine's PO's botches too. Part of the experience as you get acquainted with it.

TopGunRMNP

Thanks XJpax! The spacer above the mount is rubber and squished, I bought the lady a pair of true-two inch rocky road spacers to throw in front to level it and the "Big-Craps" auto said there already were spacers in there and they didn't put it in. It appears, with the new engine we got all old fluids, or recycled from previous engine, power steering looks black as well and there is a coolant leak from the main tube on the bottom-front of the engine.

As per the names etc of the parts, I am still new to this and researching. I know it has the D30+D35 which is not the best, but the tranny should have been the best and the engine+exhaust or intake is better on the 2000 due to other epa restrictions. The head I am sure is the weak link that comes with 2000's and I will keep an eye on it, does it literally crack when too hot, or start warping, where does it tend to start doing this?

Firestorm500

I would stay away from the Isuzu as they are an orphan brand and parts will be difficult and expensive, if they are available at all.

Even NASCAR and Indy vehicles aren't bulletproof, and those vehicles cost 200-300K each. No matter if you spend 30-40K putting the very best specialized stuff in your Jeep, it will never be "bulletproof". Stuff will ALWAYS break and wear out.

The more off-road capable you make it, the less on-road capable it will be.

TopGunRMNP

So, does the craigslist link transmission look promising and for the price? Does the A-500 = AW4? or does anyone know the exact company/shop that rebuilds the trans near Denver, CO and resells them?

belvedere

A500 is different than an AW4. A500 = Chrysler, AW4 = Aisin

TopGunRMNP

So, this listing should have Grand Cherokee listed for it, and I don't want/ can't use this in the Regular Cherokee?

How about this fella: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-ASSY-JEEP-CHEROKEE-1999-/130843754879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item1e76e5417f&vxp=mtr from a working 1999 Cherokee, has to be an AW4, and perhaps not abused by owner and will last a long time with propper fluid changes? P.S. what is a good interval for this? Every 15,000 I change the fluid on my 5spd in the SRT-4.

belvedere

They are completely different transmissions. I don't believe they are interchangeable. If I'm wrong, hopefully someone will correct me.

TopGunRMNP

How much should a bought transmission cost for install?

TopGunRMNP

Is there any reason to replace the torque converter at the same time, or to upgrade to a better one right now?

Firestorm500

Sir: As I said earlier, either rebuild yours (with a new torque converter) or buy a used one. I should have said from a Jeep from the same generation as yours for additional clarity. Keep it simple here.

As for pricing in your area, I believe careful shopping and due diligence on your part is in order. You may have to get up from your keyboard to do this.

Radi

Absolutely. When the trans fails the fluid carries crap into the torque converter where it will come back to bite the replacement trans. Same with the fluid coolers, BTW.
You can probably flush the coolers and lines and get them pretty clean as they are nothing but tubing inside. TC's not so much, seems they never really flush out 100%.


The craigslist ad is from a Grand Cherokee, the XJ never used that transmission.
I have no idea if it would be a simple swap. I wouldn't bother, the AW4 is a better trans.

TopGunRMNP

Thanks guys, found a donor cherokee 99 with both parts for me. 112k clean red fluid.