Hi.
Rustic here. I finally fixed my 2000 XJ with the 2.5 lt TDI VM B59 engine lacking power at 2000 rpm. Number 1 injector and also replaced the 3 nozzles. Even though I am a mechanic I had a diesel specialist do the job as I dont have access to check pressures etc also the tool to r+r the No1 (wire from sensor).
Good luck

 

Hi Rustic,

Excellent news. Can I ask please:
1. Where are you located (AUS?)
2. Was the job expensive?
3. Can you recommend your diesel mech? :-)

Win! Cheers, Chris (Cheezel)

 

@aakkermans - might be a bit premature but my issue seems to be resolved. All it took was half a bottle of $11 diesel cleaner additive!

Time will tell but I could always make the engine stall when it was hot if revving over 3k and taking foot off throttle - rpm would drop pretty quickly and 'bounce' to ~700 rpm then stall.
Now it seems to drop rpm more slowly/controlled and I've not stalled it yet :-)

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Chris.



Edit: just wanted to add that I used much more than the recommended dose - first tank I put in about the right amount with no change in behaviour, next full refill I tipped in ~ half of the remaining (maybe a bit more..) cheers!

 

Hi Chris
I had the diagnosis made by Sydney Diesel services in Smithfield. Bought the injectors from Zane at Jeep overstock. I checked the prices from England but Zane wasnt too bad. I found Sheppards Diesel services in Gosford did a great job of setting up and fitting for approx $340. I hope this helps.
David

 

Finally (After posting this thread all these months ago) I got my hands on a CPS. It looks to be the right one, and I'll be installing it sometime this or next week, and let you know how it all went.

Cheezel, I did try your tip with the fuel additive. I waited until the tank was a quarter full, and threw in the whole bottle. When that didn't work, I emptied a bottle into a full tank.
Sadly, it didn't improve the situation.

For future reference, a friendly mechanic told me he empties the fuel-filter, fills the fuel filter up with the injector cleaner, and runs the engine on it straight for a super clean... The liquid is made up so the engine can run on the stuff... :-)

Anyway, hopefully get back to you all with good news in a few days.

Anthonio

 

Well, a replacement CPS did the trick!
Running like never before. Wouldn't even stall when I tried too
It was a dawdle to install (Fairly easy to reach from the engine compartment... didn't even need to remove the fuel-filter.)
Though, I'm also over 6 feet...

Thanks for all your tips and advice over the months, Especially Chris!

Regards,

Anthonio

PS... A few weeks on from your injector cleaning success... Was that indeed the cause of your troubles?

 

Celebrated too early...
It was great for a few days, then started declining. Now, it's exactly the same way it was before...

What I don't understand, if it wasn't the CPS, then why did replacement "fix" it for a few days?

 

Could it possibly be an issue of it "gunking up? I guess it IS a bit of a magnet that might attract stuff. Criiser has mentioned that being an issue with manual/clutch equipped Jeeps. Sorry man, that bites!

 

Hey Anthonio, sorry to hear that it reverted to its previous behaviour. Mine is running pretty well with the diesel flush through it, though it will sometimes still stall.
I've changed my driving style a little (I just blip the throttle when I clutch it to change gears if I'm in high revs) and never have any issues as a result; it's quite subjective though I feel that it's a big improvement by using the additive.

However, I still intend to:
1. Use this product: http://www.liqui-moly.com.au/diy-die...ector-service/
2. Drop my fuel tank and clean it, I've been recommended 'shift it' by kenko: http://www.sperling.com.au/htmlpages/kenco.htm
3. Change the fuel filter (again, last changed around 7000kms ago)


If still issues then:
- take it to dealer and get engine codes read. I read somewhere that there are 'Bosch centres' in the UK so you could take yours there..?
- dealer/Bosch can read the engine codes that the OBDII readers can't read.
- assuming it shows fuel issue then either:
+ replace/rebuild injection pump or
+ adjust 'fuel quantity actuator' or
+ do nothing as the car is driving quite well and put in injector cleaner every 2nd or 3rd tank.

NB: I've also read that running biodiesel will strip all the built up gunk from the tank/fuel lines/injection pump etc; but as a result you can clog the filter pretty quickly so good idea to order one beforehand do you have it on hand.
Else I also read somewhere about a guy that put 10ml ACETONE in with a full tank of fuel and he was of the opinion that it's much, much more effective than any commercial diesel (injection cleaner) additive. I have read much discussion/debate about using acetone and something to be aware of is that it destroys rubber (apparently?) particularly the injection pump seals..

Anywho; that's a summary as to where I got to :-)

I don't think it's the CPS gunking up (though it could be that it's a faulty 2nd hand part?, I think the FSM has a test procedure for them (?)) - might be worth looking into?

Cheers, keep updating the thread as you find out more.

- Chris!

 

is there any news on this thread?

I recently bought a 2.5td cherokee from '99 and I am experiencing similar problems.
It started by dropping out when turning left in second gear and when trying to take of fast by pressing the gas pedal down deep and releasing the clutch too fast.
After this it only got worse, I had sudden RPM drops when driving at high speed and the engine would stop without reason.
After some weeks the car would not even start, or it would start, rev up very high and drop out.

I took it to the dealer, DRBIII scantool allways reported the same problem. CPS error.The CPS was replaced with a new one twice without any change.

After this the dealer changed all the following parts:

-fuel pump and filter
-injectors
-wiring to the cps
-ECU
-sensor on the gearbox


ECU was completely reprogrammed

now the car drives fine except it still cuts out when trying to take off to fast.
Also when i try to give it full throttle after shifting to second gear, it drops out.
It then still returns a CPS error.
I can drive but I have to take off like I am driving a 10 ton truck.

Any hints on this?

My dealer is going nuts on this, he tells me he never had this problem before with an XJ.

 

Hi azthechamp,



When you say they replaced fuel pump and filter, do you mean they replaced the injection pump (IP)?

- there is no fuel pump in the tank per se. Every fix I have heard for the issue involves an IP replacement. That said...



I'm not a mech, but to me your issue sounds fuel related, maybe a pinhole leak in fuel lines sucking air. Have read of others with this type of issue in the pickup in their tank eg they have problems when half full but not when full as no ability to suck air when pickup fully submersed in diesel. Maybe hard acceleration, fuel swishes to back of tank allowing it to draw air into fuel lines causing stall?

If difficulties starting:

1. Glow plugs fine?
2. Try and prime the heck out of the fuel filter then try.
- the rubber oring that seals the plunger is known to become brittle over time and need replacing. Its a racor R230rt from memory for the complete assy, or just get a rebuild kit from dealer/online etc. Commonly used in marine applications (boats) easy to find on eBay if none local. Because it leaks air its hard to start, manually priming it pushes the air out etc.

I'd try the liqui-moly diesel purge as it should flush (hopefully) any crap out of the injectors and IP and is relatively inexpensive and I'd consider changing the fuel filter, but not if its been dine recently and you are happy with the quality of diesel in your area.

- no water ppresent in water sseparator bowl at base of filter?

Other than that, if its not fuel related I would do the basic electrical stuff:

1. Redo grounds from batt to block and block to firewall.

2. Replace your battery (borrow one for testing) (just in case its NQR and is causing electrical strangeness).

I'd also suggest determining if issues occur when engine warm or cold; moving/stationary, hard accel past a rev range.

I'd sit in your driveway with the car in neutral and just do everything that you believe makes it cutout then drive it for a few backstreets and test there then back into the drive.

As a fyi:

CPS faulty supposed to be able to tip water on it to cool it down and should start straight up



Keep us posted.

Since its a TD you might get more of a response on the previously mentioned Aus forums as these cars were never sold in the States with the diesel engine (except a handful to the postal service?)



Goodluck

 

Sorry - did they replace the CPS or just the 'wiring to it'?

- if they did not replace the cps and its throwing a CPS fault then id start there ;-)

 

thanks for the quick responses,

the CPS was changed twice, including the wiring.

The injection pump was replaced indeed.
Fuel filter is clean, no water.
Battery was replaced as well as the alternator.
Luckely my local Jeep mechanic has a totall loss Cherokee with only 40k kilometers for replacement parts, otherwise this would have been an expensive fix.

I'll discus the fuel options mentioned with my mechanic.
Thanks in advance.

 

Cheers Az,

your mech prolly has the FSM but if not direct him here :
http://web.archive.org/web/201105132....com/tech.html



Would be great if you could keep the thread updated with your progress.



Cheers!

 

just a quick update.

car was driving quite fine for a week, just by taking it easy on the gas in first and second gear.
Today I filled up the tank and problems got way worse.
When I take a sharp left turn at a considerable speed, rev gauge takes sudden drops to very low rpms. sometimes engine cuts of. after the turn everything behaves back normal.