Anyone got part numbers for the rear hub bearings for a 1999 jeep xj 2.5 sport with a dana 30 rear diff, no clue if saying the diff makes any difference

 

Dana 30 is a front axle. If you meant Dana 35 Rear Axle...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...l+bearing,1672

If you mean Dana 30 Front Axle

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ing+&+hub,1636

 

Oh ok still very new to jeeps as this is my first jeep and i read the receipts that came with the jeep and it says dana30 which i assumed itll be for the rear so now i have no idea what i have for the rear diff i have this picture off it, is there anyway off finding out, the front is dana30 with an arb cover and the rear is?

 

Well it looks like ive got a dana 35c, the xj is definately way more complicated then my E36, i just need to do the rear wheel bearings, find lifted shocks for a 3" lift, rear drum brakes and find where this damn oil leak is on the engine somewhere and itll be all good to go

 

Yep, Dana 35C. Dana 30 in front.

Primary culprits for oil (assuming it's engine oil) is:

Rear main seal

Oil pan gasket

Valve cover gasket

Oil filter adapter

You should try to clean all the old oil off as best as you can and frequently check for new oil. Perhaps you can describe where you see the oil gathering.

 

This is good advice, and I'd start looking for leaks at the bottom of that list and work your way up.

 

All UK XJ's have D35 rear diffs. (because the Chrysler 8.25 doesn't have ABS which is, of course, is mandatory for us).

Bad luck needing rear wheel bearings, they seem to last for ever & not a fun job. Don't be tempted to go cheap, as you'll not want to do them again next year, so that'll probably be Timken or SKF (which won't be any cheaper 'cos they're made in China, Poland, India, Lithuania or wherever.

If you're not in a hurry for the rear shox, I suggest you just bide your time, 'til a pair turn up,

Brake parts, on the other hand, are inexpensive & readily available, the rear shoes are not my favourite job, but easier if you do away with the largely useless self-adjustment mechanism.

Good advice on engine oil leaks but while unsightly if you're not actually losing a measurable amount, I'd be inclined to live with them but - f-w-i-w - the rear oil seal can be done in situ, the filter adaptor seals are not easy to find here & getting that "bolt" out is tedious, don't get a cheap cork valve cover (that's rocker box to us) gasket.

Welcome to the community.

 

I strongly advise against " doing away" with any self-adjuster parts.

I have 3 x XJ.

The new rear brake shoes can be bought "with pins" or "without".

Get the ones with pins, as these are needed to re-fitting the self adjuster mechanism, (although you can also knock the pins out of the old shoes, and fit them to pinless ones)

So I found this out the hard way, fitted pinless shoes, deleted the adjuster, brakes were much worse after and very hard to adjust

If your self adjuster is not working, examine each part, clean, lubricate, and usually bend a few parts a bit with multi-grips. Check for ability to actuate mechanism

This usually fixes things

If it is worn, damaged or faulty, I would recommend purchase a new self adjuster kit off Ebay etc

I recently used the self-adjusting procedure after fitting new front pads, the rears, even though also recently new, must have had more travel, so I had a low soft pedal

After reversing and braking hard a few times, as per FSM procedure, my brakes were good, with much better pedal

 

Thanks for clarifying the pin issue, I really had no idea but I'm glad my memory wasn't playing tricks. Unfortunately, whether your new shoes have them of not is a matter of luck - unless you happen to know which brands have them & which don't. Fortunately, I'm not bothered anymore since one of my XJ's no longer has, so called, self-adjusters (& the other will almost certainly lose them the next time the rear brakes need attention).

In my experience, self adjusting brakes simply do not work - on anything! They are a particularly bad joke on XJ's because they are dependent on doing something that just never occurs in normal use. However, unlike a lot of vehicles with self-adjusters, they have perfectly good manual adjusters, so tweaking them the weekend before inspection (or if the lever comes up further than I like) is no big deal, & no more than I've always done, as a matter of course. The original delete was a case of having to, I just wish I'd thought of it before, but now I would strongly recommend discarding the self-adjuster mechanism, if only to make any work on the back brakes a little less of a chore, but why keep something that serves no useful purpose?

 

My brake specialist is the "Rainman" of brake parts, and has a very autistic manner of dealing with customers as well

He explained the pin situation to me when I asked why the last lot I bought off him had no pins, and said, "well thats why I buy my brake parts of you mate, to inform me of all relevant matters"

However, it is easy to swap the pins over from old shoes to new, you just have to know. Stupid idea
I believe this may be what you are expected to do and some folk believe brakes should only be worked upon by experts.


We have to respectfully disagree about the self-adjusters. I used to agree, but once I got them working properly, found they work as intended !

My black XJ without had such **** rear brakes without the self-adjusters it drove me mental, needed frequent adjustment, or it would pull side to side, never did that before

I saved the old brake shoes from my White one so I can re-install the pins in the pinless shoes and the self-adjuster on the black one (if I can find the parts)

My front pads were down to 3/16" and the new ones are ~1/2" thick. This caused my rear shoes to have to expand much further and a very low pedal

I fixed this in 2 minutes with the self-adjuster, would have taken 30min or more on the ground to adjust them manually

The key to getting them to work properly is that (apart from lube) the 2 parts that engage with metal teeth must be in contact and not chewed

Once they are working as they should, they will spin the adjuster wheel just like they should

Changing brake pads is very rare for me.

I am usually so much lighter on the brakes then most other drivers I see, I have done over 100k miles on already well used brakes before having to change pads

The rears actually fell of the backing plates, they still had meat on them

I advise folk to get their self adjuster working, follow the FSM adjust procedure every now and again, and you will never have to grub on the ground adjusting brakes again

 

Self adjusters are probably the first example of manufacturers making things needlessly complicated to solve a problem that didn't exist. As I said, none of them work & the XJ's aren't even proper self-adjusting brakes, because they are supposed to adjust in normal use; there is nothing about emergency stops in reverse that comes anywhere near normal. In fact in an urban environment it would be well nigh impossible without attracting attention, probably of the unwanted variety.

So we'll agree to differ; I'm impressed that you could even be bothered to get them working, me I'm delighted it's something I don't have to bother about. Your pad wear is also truly impressive, quite extraordinary in fact. I have only last weekend replaced mine, I think for the 2nd time in 6 years, so have no complaints in that respect as it's mainly used on narrow, windy country roads with poor visibility, errant livestock (hikers & cyclists) and long steep descents. That said, pad (&, to a lesser extent, shoe) wear has more to do with quality than use &, unfortunately, brand is no longer any indication of quality.

Delaminating brake linings seem to be a Jeep thing, even worse on the parking brake shoes on models with disc brakes, probably due to their age.