The hard brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the rear wheel on the drivers side has ruptured from rust and I need to replace it ASAP. Problem is I don't know anything about brake plumbing and I really don't know what size line I need to replace the torn up line on my XJ. I also don't know what fittings I'll need.

I'm probably going to be losing my license in a couple months tops so I need to get my Jeep back on the road ASAP so I can take care of business until then. I really need yalls help on this one. Its a really bad time in my life right now and I can't go through all this without any transportation. Thank you in advance for your help.

 

Can't tell you for sure, but I can copy paste what the 2001 XJ FSM & Parts catalog says. Hopefully your 98 is similar.

BRAKE TUBE FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel tube can be used for emergency repair when factory replacement parts are not readily available. Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO flare

DOUBLE INVERTED FLARING
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing compression disc over gauge and center tapered flaring screw in recess of compression disc.
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the inverted flare.

ISO FLARING
To make a ISO flare use Snap-Ont Flaring Tool TFM-428 or equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with the top of the tool bar (Fig. 16). Then tighten the tool bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is squarely seated on the tool bar.

Part numbers for all brake line components:
1) 5602 6775 - CLIP, Tube To Speed Sensor
2) 5212 9022 - TUBE, Brake, Right
3) 5206 7508 - BOLT, Axle Vent
4) 52007 562AC - HOSE, Brake, Rear
5) 5212 9023 - TUBE, Brake, Left
6) 2208 893 - LOCK, Brake Hose
7) SENSOR, Anti-Lock Brakes
5200 5932 - Right
5200 5933 - Left
8) 5200 7800 - CLIP, Brake Tube
9) 3420 1912 - SCREW, Self Tapping, M6x1x14
4) 5212 8170 - TUBE, Brake, Proportioning Valve to
Union

Not sure if 2001 part numbers are the same for your 98, but it's a start.

 

Just FYI, google still works, wasn't sure if you were aware, lol.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rep...-lines-114106/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/brake-line-size-89993/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...ke-line-50703/

 

Thanks man. With all the rust this things got I dont know if I can even salvage any of the line. The whole thing probably has to be replaced which is gonna suck. It's hard for me to work on my Jeep now since I lost my leg. That would be great if I only had to relpace a section and not the whole thing.

 

Yeah I was aware. I was also up until 5 in the morning trying to take care of this and about 11 other ****ed up things going on. Thanks for the links dude, but if it's such an *** chapper for you to see someone posting a thread for help in the appropriate section of an online forum, maybe you shouldn't log onto online forums.

 

Took me all of 2 hours to run my rear line and re do the real axle lines.

Hardest part is doing the double flares. Practice on some6 extra line first

Napa sells the tool for $25
and the line. Pick up a spool of it, and fittings
not so hard actually!

 

Buy the complete line assembly from the dealer. It really doesn't cost that much and it has all the correct bends, flares, etc., and is ready to install.

 

what ken said^^^^^ its about 45 dollars i know its alot for a piece of tube but its almost hassle free, and you will not get it to run exactly as the old one was, there will be cussing and rebending. if getting the old ends off gives you any trouble just cut them off close and use a socket and read up on bleeding or go to youtube lots of helpful vids there, bleed the front while youre at it. not nearly the same but i did my line several days after gall bladder removal, good luck

 

I posted what information I had and did a search for you and then posted the links I found, didn't I?

If you can't take a little joke, or even attempt to educate yourself, even a little on your own, maybe you shouldn't log onto the internet at all...just saying.

 

wouldn't the break lines and 'pressure" fittings work from the parts store?,, they sell 'em at the national auto parts stores? almost idiot proof, cheap, and fast? if yer running to the rear, i wouldn't think "factory" bent lines would go in very easy as they are run in some pretty tight places,, just a thought.

 

^^^brake not break
the brake pedal is spongy
I break something everytime I work on my Jeep.

quiz tomorrow

 

LOL I guess it'd help if I re-red my post four spelling airors!!

and I aint sittin' in for any stinking quiz tomorrow, I just finished 25.5 hours of testing in advanced cross sectional anatomy and physiology with a few of them on radiation safety and fluoroscopy,,,next up is 18 hours of "The Fundamentals Of MRI" ,,,see ya' on the trail.

 

I know the line itself is 3/16ths inch, but does anyone know if the fittings for the XJs are metric or standard? I've got a '96 if the year makes a difference. Thanks!