My 99 also has the round intake. 10/98 is when it says it came of the production line.

If you just want a stock DD then the only issue with the later model's would be the head and a new one isn't all that bad with the extra emissions. Its just all the other things that need to be replaced on the ones you want to use more off road and modify.

Thanks all! Here is my current dilemma. There is a 98 with 150K that APPEARS to be in good shape locally for about 4000. I also have a line on a 2001 with under 90000 miles and they want 4500. Lightly used and in good shape. I'm watching Jeeps like this sell for 10+ on eBay.... do I take that gamble? Flip it? DD?
I will look at the exhaust system and determine if this is a California Emissions system or not. And make the call. Car was purchased and owned here in WA state. Chances should be good, right?

Most sold out west of the Rockies will be CA emissions. Mine was sold in NV and is CA

I've owned my 98 classic for 5 years and it's been a pretty reliable machine. Only 142k on it and it's from Tennessee so rust is not a problem. The engine management systems have not given me any trouble except for the CPS which is a concern across most years. I'd say check it out carefully. From many posts on this forum the 98 or 99 years are a pretty good bet. Plus, at this age, there isn't any real value difference between the different years. The amount of rust will determine relative value.

I own a 98 and I love it. My buddy had a 01 and he loved that. He road his immensely harder than I road mine (up to the windows in water hard) and he loved that thing and had minimal problems.

I guess when it comes to buying 13+ year old cars it comes down to condition and mileage. If it was me, I'd look for a 98 but if I could find a 00 or 01 with low mileage in good to very good condition I'd go for it. Really just depends on how long youre willing to wait.

the '01 will be CA emissions no matter where youre at. Owning an '01 myself, i really think people blow the head issues way out of proportion. It might seem like it happens all the time, but that is because people arent going to post about NOT having problems with it. For every one that does crack, who knows how many are out there working just fine. Regardless of head design, intake differences, ect, ect, I would say just go with the lowest miles and lowest rust. Like some others said, with all the different setups available, you can change pretty much everything to how you want it, but when the body starts rusting out thats generally when you will decide if its worth keeping.

$4500 is probably about right for the 2001 if it doesn't have any issues. The thing is that you need to look at both, drive them and--here's the important part--slide on your back all the way up underneath it with a flashlight and look around for rust. Wear something you don't mind getting dirty and get ALL the way under there so that you can even see up in the transmission tunnel.

We can't tell you which is right just from years, mileage and prices. You have to drive them and get a feel for them.

All 2001 XJs had CA emissions, so that one will as well. The 2000 had it as an option, where you could order it with either the EPA emissions or the CA emissions. Even with the '00, the state in which it was originally bought makes no difference; they sold the CA emissions trucks all over the country. They even called them "50-state emissions" (as opposed to "49-state emissions" for the EPA trucks) to make them sound more attractive to people who didn't realize the difference.

I've had no engine or drivetrain related problems with my 2000 EPA emission. No cracked head. I can't seem to find a direct fit replacement for the down pipe listed for the 2000 model year that isn't CA emission. As far as OP question goes I agree with shaky. Any of those model years should be fine, I'd look for the one with the least rust and runs the most smooth, mileage isn't a big concern unless you don't ever want to deal with a rebuild, especially if it is primarily a DD.

Walker makes a direct bolt-on replacement:

Walker Front Pipe



It's crush bent rather than mandrel bent. The OEM pipe was mandrel bent and theoretically should flow a little better, but I'm not sure it makes that much of a difference.

I needed an extra to send off to have coated while my original was still on my truck and searched for months. I found a grand total of ONE of them in a junk yard, but it was in such sad shape that I didn't bother with it. Instead, I kept searching Craigslist using SearchTempest until I located a lightly used one over in Texas from a 2000 some guy was parting out. I had to go to Dallas anyway, so I just made a side trip on the way back and picked it up for $25.

I would offer to sell you my extra one, but it was such a pain to find one I think it would be better to hang onto it in case I ever bang up the one on my truck and need a replacement. If the Walker pipe doesn't do it for you, you could try getting one made by a muffler shop that has a mandrel bender (if you can find one near you). I know Stainless Works in Cleveland has worked with some people to make custom mandrel-bent pipe for their hot rods. I don't know what they charge, though.

I have a 1999 built in October of 98 and hoping you can help me out. Any idea what size the front brake rotors are? Also, I’m thinking about a Banks exhaust manifold but there is some confusion on whether or not it will fit. They have two options to choose from, the Banks 51327 Revolver and the 51306 Torque Tubes.

Any thoughts on that?

On the rotors I am just guessing here but cause of the earlier build date you would go with the older ones.
Ones that would also fit a '98.
Thinking the 51306 is an '00 or '01 thing replaces the 2 part exhaust manifold on those Jeeps so you would want the Revolver.
Assuming everything is original on the Jeep.

I assumed as much on the brakes but didn’t want to go through the hassle of making a mistake on what I bought.

Thanks for your thoughts on the exhaust. Everything is original. Right now I’m going through the process of replacing a freeze plug. One of them that is “easily” accessible is a goner and since I’ll be removing the manifold that has been cracked for 10+ years I thought I’d put a new one on. 🙂

If it's a '99 with standard distributor, could it still have the 331 head? I'm looking at one remotely, so I can't check the head casting.

630 head and it does have a standard distributor.