Is there a reliable substitute for that bosch 67658 that folks like so much. I found two sites that carry but after shipping its almost 400 bucks! I mean come on.juiceman2112

 

To me, Bosch is the gold standard for XJ fuel pumps and I would pay the extra coin as fuel delivery is job #1 and everything else comes after that. But if not a Bosch, I like Carter. Avoid Airtex or anything branded by them for reliability reasons.

Be sure to replace the entire fuel pump assembly as long as you have the tank down unless you like doing things twice.....

 

Thx tj!that bosch is the whole assembly from what I understand. Thx for your time

 

Is the main test for fuel pump strictly the fuel pressure test. Meaning is there any other symptoms or test to determine the need for a new pump?thx again​​​​​​​juiceman2112

 

$400? From what I've seen the going price isn't a 10th of that - but then I can't recall seeing a branded pump offered for sale.

 

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-154553563.html
one of owo places that have it in stocks. Plus shipping

 

My pump held at 46 today so don't think it's the problem.with my idle 😕

 

JuiceMan, give us details of your idle problem. Be specific. How many miles on this engine?

Also even if check engine light isn't on, have you ever seen it on since this symptom began? A quick scan of the computer with a code reader or a scan tool is never a bad idea as sometimes you can have a "pending code"

Often, idle problems can be caused by a dirty ide air control and or throttle body. Also, whenever new symptoms occur, a review of tuneup hardware is warranted. Fresh Champion spark plugs gapped to .035, quality spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

TjWalker is onto it. Why are you "looking at/thinking" you need to replace the pump?

If you turn your key forward to one click, are you hearing a HUM in the back?

Have you checked the pressure "on the Fuel Rail"? ( it's easy, there's a plastic cap to remove in the engine bay, right side, black plastic), and it looks like a tire valve. When pressed in, (the center pin) it'll spray gas. Although, the Pressue amount matters. Spraying gas might be 10 pounds of pressure, it might be 40 pounds of pressure... that's why you need to Screw a guage to the opening. You can get them, on rental, from most autoparts stores...

Essentially, what Walker, and I, are asking, is Why you think it's your Pump, other than "NOT Starting."

A Lil' more info, and maybe we'll be able to help you out better...



​​​​​​​Good Luck... God Bless...

 

OP doesn't mention having a problem, just makes a simple request about availability of a decent, reasonably priced pump.

I appreciate that everyone's trying to be helpful & maybe save the guy a few $$'s but just may be over thinking the issue rather than giving a straight answer to the question posed.

(& yes, I realise my initial response didn't really help anyone but it was just a throw away, off-the-cuff remark)

 

In the OP post #7, they mention that they do have a problem. An idle problem.

 

1997 xj sport 4wd 186k. Original owner from 97.

symptoms

idle hiccup and stumble . Slight shake at idle. I can feel a little bump bump under the body and steering wheel. Stumble is in sync with exhaust note. Visible noticeable when looking at engine and very noticeable while placing hand on air cover. Does it in drive neutral and reverse. Bad fuel economy. Slight tick from engine while first started hot or cold. slushing and gurgles from tank while idle and off. Incorrect fuel guage reading. Quarter tank off. Incapable of fueling to capacity. 5 gallons short. Evap code! Insufficient purge.


what I have done over the last three weeks. Some directly related and not but I will list all in case.


new purge valve solenoid and charcoal filter with new connections. I have a nice annoying tick now from purge valve. Not the enging tick i described .Fixed all suspected vac leaks and connections while getting my havac system dialed in. Check pressure at rail 46 and steady. Ran all diagnostic checks on fancy scanner. Only the evap code. No miss fires. Idle rpm 724 to 780. O2 s are relatively new and in speck on scanner. Can't find oil pressure on scan and I have idiot lights. Slight hum from fuel pump starting sounds normal. Under the body a electrical hum can be heard slightly load. Traced back to tank. Sounds like standing under power lines at idle. Lots of gurgles. throttle body clean and scrub. Throttle heat soak and blow out with additive and then further long aggressive drive. New mopar map mopar tps and schmucks iac..fuel treatment like always but a little more aggressive. Oil change and filter at quick change. 100 miles later 3 quarter's drained and additive added to oil for flush. Marvel and gum out. 150 miles followed by complete drain. High end oil 5 quarter's one quart Lucas. high end filter. Replaced seals in my oil filter adapter. New cap roter plugs and wires plus ignition coil. Champion copper. 035. Rechecked gap after 50 miles. Gap had shrunk considerably. Replaced with new and re gaped. .035. Checked after 50 miles all gap is true this time. No effect on stumble. New batery and cables. Cleaned the grounds I could find in the bay. Rear break rebuild. Rear dif service with seals and bearings. Removed all carpet and head liner to do a complete interior bed liner vibe. Removed and replaced Rear hatch and fixed wiring loom to hatch. Everything works. New intake manifold to replaced og cracked one. New is now cracked after 2 weeks. Fixing tomorrow. New exhaust from catalytic back. Pulled injectors cleaned and tested. . the only other time it has stumbled exactly like this is when a shop did not gap the plugs. That's y now I do all the work my self.last few years and y I spent so much effort making sure it was not a gap problem. Jeep run beter than ever . No acceleration hesitation at all and new exhaust sounds amazing. Just the dam idle. Feels like to much or starving for something. Or a clogged something. Filter is in the assembly in tank I didn't want to drop it till I have to. That's y I was fishing around for fuel pump assembly. Also checked mounts and they look ok. One side like new and drivers side a little cracked. Engine has the slightest dip when pushed. I thought if mounts it would not be in time with exhaust note stumble.


thx for the long read

juiceman2112​​​​​​​

 

Also reset computer with scanner for each part and full drain to be sure it would re learn correctly. Shifts like buter and fires up like a beast right away. Love this thing so much. ​​​​​​​again could not test oil pressure. Was thinking maybe low-pressure at idle is causing the hiccup and the little lifter tick when it first starts

 

Also did full non lift suspension and tires. Coils up front and leafs in the back plus front and rear shocks. Been at it like crazy since my work has been slow. Just so annoying after all this work that I can't figure out this last thing. Maybe I drive the **** out of it for another 20 years and except that it's an old jeep with a little idle demon 😈 🤔

 

Or I go full stupid and continue the saga. Drop the tank and replace every thing back there. Do new mounts enging and trans and look for loose conector bolts. Start fiddling around the flex plate to see if that's my tick or if it's lifters. Had my oil pan replaced about three years ago and it's leaking now. So drop it all put a new oil pump and main seals and do it right. So tired of mechanics. Every time I look at something that I payed for I find it broken or poorly finished. Reason I did the rear break rebuild is the last shop didn't even put the self adjusting system back on. Both sides.

Thx guys and my apologies for the rant.

Juiceman2112