Well I replaced the crank position sensor last night and got the same results as before. No change. From sitting it will turn over and try to fire on its own and start with wide open throttle. But not run for long even then. Additional cranking yields a no start situation and the smell of fuel. I’m starting to lean towards a fuel issue myself…

I’m going to wait until the scanner comes in to do anything further. Doing the key twist scan I come up with one code being number 12. Which I have determined means (Battery or power to the ECM disconnected in the last 50 key cycles.) I had just put the battery back in at this point so no surprise there.

Going to look into a fuel pressure gauge this weekend. Thanks again for all your guys help!

 

Take a long handle screwdriver... hold the tip to the injector. Hold your ear to the handle... should be nice even ticking on all of them. If one is out, it dumps gas is the others and doesn't ignite properly. Or you can use a tester. Or you can take me all out and check them one by one... the screwdrivers easier. Or a stethoscope.

Plus... I have hoist-envy.... just wanted to admit that publicly.

 

If the smell of fuel is during or after cranking, might not be a fuel issue. Key word here is 'might'.
The smell of fuel could mean its flooding. Pull a spark plug immediately when you smell the fuel and see if its soaked. If its not soaked test for spark while cranking.

Cut the problem in half....fuel or ignition. A fuel pressure reading will determine one way or the other.

Did you also use the cam sensor out of the old engine?

Hopefully the scanner and fuel pressure test will tell the story.
But not all engine faults result in a CEL code. Found that out the hard way.

 

Back to basics.

1. Get that fuel pressure data. Going to need a buddy to crank the engine over while you carefully watch fuel pressure readings. 49 plus or minus 5 is the target for your 97.

2. Pull a plug. Keep it attached to the plug wire. Have your buddy crank the engine over while you watch. You are looking for a strong, BLUE, snapping spark. Yellow/orange/white indicates a weak spark, which can be caused by a failing ignition coil.

3. Use a "noid light" in-line to be sure that you are getting a pulse from the computer to fire your fuel injectors.

 

I will second this. Although, even if you can hear the injector working, it might not be closing all the way. That would still lead to lots of fuel.

I skimmed through the whole thing so I might have missed it. Have you double checked your timing?

 

Didn’t make any progress on the jeep. Scanner should be here later this week hopefully.

I am notorious for being impatiens and just throwing parts at problem so I am doing by best to leave it alone and do it right this time! Haha

The second I have the scanner ill see what’s going on and report back. Its killing me not being able to drive it…

 

Always awesome when things come sooner than you think!

 

Well last night was a bust. Thought I had a handle on it but was wrong. I plugged it in, turned the key to ignition on, and hit scan. It gave me a code of P0108 which according the book it is related to the MAP sensor. Then cleared the code. Well after going to look at it I realized I had failed to plug the sensor itself back in after doing some diagnostic work……… plugged it back in and scanned and showed no codes. Even got it to fire up and run for a second thinking it would send something to the computer. After scanning again no codes. And no check engine light on. Any thoughts?

Planning on picking up a fuel pressure tester this weekend if time permits.

 

With it not displaying any codes I guess I’m stuck playing the throw parts at it game… New MAP sensor came in the mail today so we will see if that fixes it. Also planning on cleaning the IAC while I’m at it.

I did a fuel pressure check with a tool borrowed from a friend and it was 47psi so getting good fuel pressure. Wish me luck!

 

Oak tree mechanic says....
Put on a pair of gloves.
Have someone crank the motor.
Start grabbing connections to wiring harnesses, the coil, grab wiring harnesses, etc. Etc. And shake them. If it suddenly starts. There's your problem. I'm not joking. Sometimes a plug or wire gets pinched. Have you tried spraying for vacuum lines?

 

Does it hold it after the key is shut off?

 

BillyBoy- one of the first things we did before I even ordered the scanner. Nothing changed at all.

BlueRidgeMark- I don’t know I didn’t test that. I would have to borrow the tool again to do so.

Well here’s the dilemma……. Last night I put the MAP sensor in and it made no change. But after it ran (sorta) the CEL came on. I scanned it and it came up with a P0340. Which according to my book is related to the cam positioning sensor. Called the auto part store and they said they didn’t start putting CPS’s in until 2000? So that’s freaking confusing… cleared the code to see if I could replicate it and couldn’t get it running again. But after long cranking (To the point where the Battery voltage light came on) it through another CEL. This time for P1698 which my book doesn’t even go that high. What google searching I have done says it could either be a bad computer or bad battery or alternator. Is this correct? I tested the alternator at the auto parts store before we started this process. Any help would be much appreciated………..

 

Did you ever double check all of your grounds? Also have the battery tested. Low voltage will cause a no idle situation. Sometimes it will also require a little throttle to get going. Also maybe make sure you TV cable is adjusted properly.

 

You have an electrical issue and from the little bit I'm reading, I want you to check Splices 111 and 114 (S111 and S114). Referring to wiring diagrams, the two splices are in both the MAP Sensor and the CMP which you have or had codes for both. Both splices are near the fuel injector wiring harness and are on the common sensor ground path to the PCM. A partially pinched wire will cause the codes and a lot of issues with the Jeep.

P1698 relates to the CCD BUS message not getting from the Transmission Control Module and usually also sets P0700 which is a general transmission code. Now, communications between the TCM and PCM on the CCD BUS line. I unfortunately can't find splice or specific wiring information, but if those CCD BUS lines go through the harness and one or two of the splices, that would also be an issue.

Not saying it's the answer, but it's something to try.

 

That's odd. My '97 has one.

Well, no, come to think of it... Parts store jockeys not having a clue is NOT odd at all. It's routine. So routine, in fact, that you should pretty much ignore almost anything they say.



As for the other code, here's a little trick for getting code info. Trust me, it's much better than asking the people at Autozone.