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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Of course this is complicated, it is one of my posts!
Went to an old thread that had a bunch of "you can use this gauge, you can use that gauge" stuff. Not what I am seeking. I am trying to determine the gauges of these wires coming off of these battery posts on my 1996 XJ:
In person, the positives look larger than the negatives for some reason.
The 1996 Jeep Parts Manual does not reveal the sizes either and that part number is not found on the MOPAR parts website:
The black ones, I got the small one at close to 6 gauge (5/32") on the small one, and close to 2 GA (1/4") using a tape measure. Which neither sounds right. Going to have to pull that positive off and measure it at home but those look heavier.
Am attempting to order some lugs for those ends and use an ordinance/military style battery connector. The ones I want only go down to 6 gauge (these awesome beauties https://www.delcity.net/store/Compre...19666.h_819667 ). So, if there is there any actual reference remaining out there for these wire sizes?
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do you want to duplicate? Or upgrade?
Stock main battery cables are 6 gauge. 4 gauge is a nice upgrade. More than that is a stupid waste of copper. IF you have a winch or other high-current load, you might want larger cables run to that load, but running bigger than 4 gauge to your starter and engine block does absolutely nothing for you.
I like to use military terminals, with custom cables made by BestBoatWire.com. I get the clear heat shrink on the ends so that I can keep an eye on what's going on in there. Works really well.
There is a member on this forum who sells a 4 gauge kit, too. I think he offers the military terminals.
While you are at it, upgrade that pathetic fender ground. A long with your bigger cable, throw away the stock screw, and drill the hole out for a 5/16" bolt. Clean the area around it the size of a nickel, down to bare metal. Fish a stainless steel bolt through from the back side (with a good SS star washer on it) and then add a lock washer and a nut. All SS, of course, and liberally coated with dielectric grease while you are at it. Now you have a very nice 5/16" stud sticking out of your fender, with excellent contact to the metal. Pop your new cable over that, and follow with a lock washer and nut.
Much mo bettah.
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; Nov 14, 2019 at 05:00 PM.
Stopped at O'Reilly on the way home. Best guess between me and a clerk was two 4 GA on the positive, one 6 GA and one 8 GA on the negative. The small one that goes direct to body should be easy enough to get off and hammer crimp a connector to. However, at several days wait and over $7 per compression nut lug on the others (plus shipping if I have to reorder), would like to get this right.
As nasty as the exposed ends of the cable look, they've probably got some internal rot as well. I'd replace them and upsize the starter cables to 4-ga, and clean and improve all the grounds as Mark suggested. Personally, I just grab military-style battery ends and decent quality premade cables from the farm-n-home store and add some shrinktube with the adhesive sealer over the crimped ends.
As nasty as the exposed ends of the cable look, they've probably got some internal rot as well. I'd replace them and upsize the starter cables to 4-ga, and clean and improve all the grounds as Mark suggested. Personally, I just grab military-style battery ends and decent quality premade cables from the farm-n-home store and add some shrinktube with the adhesive sealer over the crimped ends.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 318SixPack
And what exactly is wrong with cold welding everything together?
It's just not always a very good connection. A hydraulic press makes a reliable connection, every time. A hammer driven press, no. It does not apply anywhere near enough pressure, and it's not possible to make it consistent.
Originally Posted by 318SixPack
So the red wires are not 4 GA?
Not if they are factory. The factory cables are 6 gauge for the main cables. IIRC, the smaller ones are 10. (The PDC and the fender ground.)
Going up to 4 and 8 makes a nice upgrade. Bigger than that is just wasting copper.
It's just not always a very good connection. A hydraulic press makes a reliable connection, every time. A hammer driven press, no. It does not apply anywhere near enough pressure, and it's not possible to make it consistent.
Not if they are factory. The factory cables are 6 gauge for the main cables. IIRC, the smaller ones are 10. (The PDC and the fender ground.)
Going up to 4 and 8 makes a nice upgrade. Bigger than that is just wasting copper.
Found a piece of 4 GA that I cut up for a different project but didn't use. It matches up with the positive red wires and is larger than the bigger negative one.
Is there any reference out there for the factory battery cable gauges? The parts stores sell replacements as direct replacement in 4 GA too.
And the puzzle thickens. Tried to take pix of this, but was not very successful.
The positive wires are at least 4 AWG. As you can see in that photo, they are unwound a little and frazzled. I was going with 4 AWG until I compared a freshly cut 4 AWG piece of cable from a parts store. The conductor is absolutely 4 AWG, with a much thicker jacket of insulation. The whole thing is the same size as my positive cable.
The positives are at least 4 AWG and actually look bigger, conductor wise. Which sounds crazy that the factory would wire these trucks with 2 AWG.
The negatives are absolutely spot on 6 AWG and 8 AWG.
Guess I am getting 2 AWG Compression Heavy Wall Lugs from Del City in addition to the 4 AWG ones I already have in the cart. If I have 4 AWG, then I can save the others for a later upgrade if I even do that, and if I have 2 AWG, I can give the smaller ones to someone who needs them. BTW, have never seen connectors like these, plan on checking the before and after ohm readings and reporting back what I find.
Pic: Verified 4 AWG with black insulation. Red beneath it is attached to my battery.
And this is the parts list I am going with from Del City Electronics to swap my battery terminals to Ordinance/Military and clean up the messy ends. Also using De-Ox-Id and see how it does on corroded copper (they don't have De-Ox-It at my electrical jobber).
Might want to check out Remy Battery.
Cheaper prices but they will charge shipping too.
I went with them cause I wanted 45 and 90 degree lugs but did not need 5 in some sizes.
Just one or two.
Might want to check out Remy Battery.
Cheaper prices but they will charge shipping too.
I went with them cause I wanted 45 and 90 degree lugs but did not need 5 in some sizes.
Just one or two.
Just got free shipping and ordered just now.
The spots where I might want 90s in the future are at the block, at the fuse box, and at the starter, maybe at the body too.
Read somewhere that radiators don't always ground well to the body and that can promote electrolytic corrosion by grounding through the fluid instead of the metal. Not sure how much of that to believe, but sounds like something worth checking. Going to check that continuity when I check these other things next weekend.
1996 XJ Battery Cable Gauges?
