1996 Cherokee: Recomended performance brake parts?
I have a 1996 Cherokee that's pretty much stock. I want to know what you recommend for brake upgrades without doing any modifications. I do have disks up front and drums in the back,and I plan to keep it that way until I have money down the road.
I saw some rotors on Summit racing that are for stock Cherokees. They're EBC iron,black zink plated,slotted and dimpled. I want some opinions on these,and then some recommendations for calipers,brake pads,brake shoes,and drums. I noticed there's not many options for drums though.
I saw some pads from EBC that are organic which I thought were a bit odd,but I'm curious as to if anybody has used them. I also saw some EBC pads that are aramid fiber. Again,just curious what people think of these if they've used them. Thanks in advance.
I saw some rotors on Summit racing that are for stock Cherokees. They're EBC iron,black zink plated,slotted and dimpled. I want some opinions on these,and then some recommendations for calipers,brake pads,brake shoes,and drums. I noticed there's not many options for drums though.
I saw some pads from EBC that are organic which I thought were a bit odd,but I'm curious as to if anybody has used them. I also saw some EBC pads that are aramid fiber. Again,just curious what people think of these if they've used them. Thanks in advance.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 349
From: District of Columbia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What are your goals? Increased stopping power and fade resistance? If so, it's all about the pads. Get something with some added bite like Hawk LTS. I wouldn't bother with slotted or dimpled rotors. Be sure to flush your brake fluid, as it's probably been a while.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
YES! Most people don't realize brake fluid is Hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. This is usually what rots out calipers and brake lines from the inside. Suck out the reservoir, fill with fresh, then bleed all the brakes until it comes out clear. This should be done every 30,000 miles or sooner if it turns dark.
My friend has a pressure bleeder that's the best thing since sliced bread! It's a one man job to bleed the brakes with it and it keeps the reservoir full.
My friend has a pressure bleeder that's the best thing since sliced bread! It's a one man job to bleed the brakes with it and it keeps the reservoir full.
Last edited by dave1123; Aug 7, 2016 at 08:54 PM.
YES! Most people don't realize brake fluid is Hydroscopic, meaning it absorbs water. This is usually what rots out calipers and brake lines from the inside. Suck out the reservoir, fill with fresh, then bleed all the brakes until it comes out clear. This should be done every 30,000 miles or sooner if it turns dark.
My friend has a pressure bleeder that's the best thing since sliced bread! It's a one man job to bleed the brakes with it and it keeps the reservoir full.
My friend has a pressure bleeder that's the best thing since sliced bread! It's a one man job to bleed the brakes with it and it keeps the reservoir full.
Definitely fade resistance! I'd like some increased stopping power,and decreased stopping distance. I understand the stopping distance is also effected by suspension,but I want the brakes to be able to do their best on top of upgraded suspension.
CF Veteran




Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 349
From: District of Columbia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
In that case, I'd definitely recommend the Hawk LTS pads up front.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 974
Likes: 14
From: Racine, WI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Black Magic pads and Centric rotors (from Black Magic Brakes) up front. I, and many others, have been very impressed.
Drums pretty much suck no matter how you try to do it, so I just use Bendix stuff until I switch to disc rears.
Drums pretty much suck no matter how you try to do it, so I just use Bendix stuff until I switch to disc rears.
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I would avoid drilled or slotted rotors. Drilled rotors crack way too easily, and both will just fill with sand, dirt, and mud if you go off road. I have the EBC smooth rotors with the black coating, and their green stuff pads. They squeak a little during low-speed braking, but the pedal feel and pad bite are hugely improved.
Most manufactures recommend flushing the brake system every 2 years. If you have anti-lock brakes there are special procedures involved for flushing brakes that include activating your anti-lock pump while bleeding to ensure the whole system gets flushed.
Currently running Centric E-coated rotors and Hawk LTS front pads. Have been very pleased.
Stay away from ceramic pads, in my opinion. I had a pair wear out a set of rotors in a couple years...yet the pads looked brand new.
Stay away from ceramic pads, in my opinion. I had a pair wear out a set of rotors in a couple years...yet the pads looked brand new.
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