When I twist the multi switch forward off the steering wheel I can hear the slight hum from the pump motor on the wiper fluid tank, but nothing but a trickle out of it, and the wipers do not turn on when I do that. Now, the wipers do work when I simply use the other part of the switch and while rather slow they seem to be fine. At the moment you are probably thinking it is possibly a bad pump, wich I was too. So I popped the tank out breaking a bolt, and unplugged the front washer fluid pump. Then, with the multimeter, tested the voltage at the terminal. I got roughly 11.9 to 12.3 wich then tells me again it is a bad motor, but then while this pump is unplugged and the tab on the multi switch is pushed forward to spray, the wipers now activate for several swipes and stop after a couple more when you release the tab. This is very perplexing but led me to believe it was maybe the motor once again is roached and is over drawing power or something. I unplugged the breaker that its plugged into and just shorted it directly and had the same results. Now up to this point everything is telling me, your pump is bad, but then I took a probe just to test it, and ran 12v directly from the battery with the probe and the pump ran like old faithful and sprayed it to the top of the car. I also tried unplugging the windshield wiper motor with the same hum and piddle of fluid from the sprayer as before. Any help would be appreciated.
Also, the rear wiper and sprayer work if you were curious.
Thanks

On models with Intermittent Wipers, the Control Module, velcroed to the underside of the dash panel right above your shins, is what operates the wipers when you activate the washer switch. I think the first thing I would do is remove that Control Module; the wiring connects right back to itself without the Control Module. Without that module, it won't wipe when you wash, nor will the intermittent modes work anymore, nor will it part coming out of slow until you get all the way to off, but the low speed, hi speed and washer pump will still work. Activating the pump without the Control Module in place does so with the least current draw through the OEM wiring since the wiper motor won't run.

If the washer pump still doesn't work without the Control Module in place, but does when you wire it direct to battery, you have a current issue, either not enough coming through the switch (corroded wiring) or a poor ground. I can't say with any certainty where the ground is for the washer pump but I'd be willing to guess it isn't too far away. The grounding on XJs is marginal as it is after all these years; there's lots of info out there for your reading pleasure. The other possibility, lack of current coming passing through the switch circuit, can be tested by measuring the voltage at the pump (with respect to battery negative) while operating it. It "should be" battery voltage (upwards of 14v when motor is running), but it will absolutely drop some (pure laws of physics), but gut feeling, it probably shouldn't be dropping below 10. I'm guessing the drop will be pretty obvious in your case if this is your issue. Unfortunately, this type of issue is also the hardest to troubleshoot since it's likely corrosion or a almost-broken wire.

I took out the box and plugged the wires in directly and got no motor noise, wipers still worked like you said, I will eventually take the wire harnesses apart and look for corrosion.

Before you dig into your wiring I'd advise downloading the FSM for your year just so you have an idea of the wiring diagrams. Unfortunately the older ones aren't as nice to follow as the newer ones but still have the info you should need.

http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

I tested the voltage again today on the pump and got 97mV so I tested before and after the little black velcro box and didn’t see a difference, so the problem is before the firewall and likely in the steering column and around the multi switch.