Okay so, I bought my Cherokee Laredo about 2 years ago without knowing much about vehicles at the time (what a mistake) -_- it has been nothing but a black hole in which I sacrifice money to in order to survive. BUT good practice. So, recently, my heater control valve burst on a hot day causing my engine to over heat and shut down, I asked a few people online what could be wrong with it because it kept over heating after I replaced the valve and they all said It was probably a loss ("catastrophic engine damage"), but I decided to try and fix it. I changed the water pump and thermostat and then bled it out and its seemed to be alright so far no over heating. But Its only been "repaired" for the past 4 days. I realized my gauge has been starting to bug out after I drive for about 30min. After 30 min. of driving when I gas and its below 1000 rpm it will shot up way past 80lb and when I idle at a light it will creep down to about 30lb, and when and when i give it gas above 2000 rpm's it bugs out too, and after about 5-10 min of that, it just bugs all over the place.I was told it could be just a short in the wiring because how hot it got when the original problem happened. Just wondering so I can stop guessing and it usually runs at about 40lb when its all good

 

replace the oil pressure sending unit it will solve the problem

 

Replace the sending unit. Ive replaced 2 on the same vehicle in 1 year

 

Yeah I figured it may just be along those lines, I just wanted to get more opinions in case it may be something else. Thanks though

 

Good advice; this is almost assuredly the sending unit. When they fail, they fail with abnormally high readings quite often.

Do yourself a favor and buy it directly from your Jeep dealer for best reliability/longevity/mating with your factory oil pressure gauge.

 

I agree with everyone else. Change out the sending unit and you should be fine. Also, Next time your heater control valve fails and it will. save yourself a few buck and just bypass it. It is not needed. Matter of fact the manufacturer did away with them all together. There are no other mocs that need to be done other then removing it.

 

Cool thanks guys! I'm glad everyone agrees and theres a much less chance of it being anything major. But how would I bypass it correctly?

 

Just remove it. Plain and simple.