1990 xj turn signal issues
#1
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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1990 xj turn signal issues
Guys,
I looked threw old threads and can't find this issue. I have a 90 2dr XJ with all man options. Very few fuses. All lights work and hazards work. With headlights on or off, no turn signs. I can push, pull and twist on the lever and nothing, pulled the bulbs and looked for rust and loose ground. Wth could it be? Relay? Column lever? Satan? Gremlins? Aliens? Help?
Free prize for the guy that makes them work!
Blantime (I can only drive straight and make no turns)
I looked threw old threads and can't find this issue. I have a 90 2dr XJ with all man options. Very few fuses. All lights work and hazards work. With headlights on or off, no turn signs. I can push, pull and twist on the lever and nothing, pulled the bulbs and looked for rust and loose ground. Wth could it be? Relay? Column lever? Satan? Gremlins? Aliens? Help?
Free prize for the guy that makes them work!
Blantime (I can only drive straight and make no turns)
#3
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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#4
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I agree that swapping the hazard relay into the flasher is a good diagnostic tool. A couple other things to check...
1. Under the dash, above the steering column there is a wide, blade-type connector that comes from the multi-funciton switch and ties it into the harness. Check that connector to make sure it's not corroded or damaged and that it is fully connected.
2. Use a multi-meter to check the flasher relay input voltage as shown in the image below. With the key in the ON position, the connector labeled "12 VOLT" should read... Anybody? Anybody? That's right, 12 volts.
1. Under the dash, above the steering column there is a wide, blade-type connector that comes from the multi-funciton switch and ties it into the harness. Check that connector to make sure it's not corroded or damaged and that it is fully connected.
2. Use a multi-meter to check the flasher relay input voltage as shown in the image below. With the key in the ON position, the connector labeled "12 VOLT" should read... Anybody? Anybody? That's right, 12 volts.
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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I agree that swapping the hazard relay into the flasher is a good diagnostic tool. A couple other things to check... 1. Under the dash, above the steering column there is a wide, blade-type connector that comes from the multi-funciton switch and ties it into the harness. Check that connector to make sure it's not corroded or damaged and that it is fully connected. 2. Use a multi-meter to check the flasher relay input voltage as shown in the image below. With the key in the ON position, the connector labeled "12 VOLT" should read... Anybody? Anybody? That's right, 12 volts.
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#7
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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Switched relays, nope, nothing, zip, nada, nothing
I am beginning to think it is the turn signal lever itself. I have a tilt column. How do I get to the switch? Pull the wheel? Steering wheel? Lol have to be clear. We are Jeep owners, not the smartest bunch, but huge *****!
I am beginning to think it is the turn signal lever itself. I have a tilt column. How do I get to the switch? Pull the wheel? Steering wheel? Lol have to be clear. We are Jeep owners, not the smartest bunch, but huge *****!
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#8
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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Did multi meter test. I gots 12 voltages. But no turn signals. I can't drive straight alway to work. I got like 5 turns. What the hell do I do next?
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#10
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#11
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The only thing the stalk does is direct electricity to the proper side of the car.
Here's a quick explanation of how the signals work: When you flip the stalk it completes a circuit between the flasher relay and the turn indicators on one side or the other. The flasher relay is supplied 12 volts any time the key is on, when it detects a specific load based on the position of the stalk, it begins pulsing current through the circuit at a predetermined rate (blink). That's why it flashes faster when you have a bad bulb (less load = faster flash) and why the standard analog flasher relay doesn't work with LED bulbs, they simply don't provide sufficient load to make it flash.
A complete lack of signals usually indicates a lack of power to the flasher relay which supplies power to the entire system, not a multi-switch issue. Check both sides of your 20 amp fuse labeled "TURN B/U" (which is also providing circuit protection to your back-up lights) and check the socket I mentioned earlier behind the flasher relay. Also, check the blade connector above the column, I've seen them become partially detached.
In order to replace the multi-switch you have to remove the steering wheel and the spring-loaded retainer behind it, from there it's just a matter of pulling the stalk, removing the retaining screws on the multi-switch, disconnecting it from the harness, and replacing it. It's a time consuming job so I would recommend exhausting other causes, first.
If it comes to replacing the multi-switch, I've got a write-up here somewhere on tightening the tilt column bolts which involves removing the multi-switch and can link, if necessary.
Here's a quick explanation of how the signals work: When you flip the stalk it completes a circuit between the flasher relay and the turn indicators on one side or the other. The flasher relay is supplied 12 volts any time the key is on, when it detects a specific load based on the position of the stalk, it begins pulsing current through the circuit at a predetermined rate (blink). That's why it flashes faster when you have a bad bulb (less load = faster flash) and why the standard analog flasher relay doesn't work with LED bulbs, they simply don't provide sufficient load to make it flash.
A complete lack of signals usually indicates a lack of power to the flasher relay which supplies power to the entire system, not a multi-switch issue. Check both sides of your 20 amp fuse labeled "TURN B/U" (which is also providing circuit protection to your back-up lights) and check the socket I mentioned earlier behind the flasher relay. Also, check the blade connector above the column, I've seen them become partially detached.
In order to replace the multi-switch you have to remove the steering wheel and the spring-loaded retainer behind it, from there it's just a matter of pulling the stalk, removing the retaining screws on the multi-switch, disconnecting it from the harness, and replacing it. It's a time consuming job so I would recommend exhausting other causes, first.
If it comes to replacing the multi-switch, I've got a write-up here somewhere on tightening the tilt column bolts which involves removing the multi-switch and can link, if necessary.
#12
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1. The connector that links the multi-function switch to the harness.
2. All your bulbs are shot (unlikely, but I've seen it)
3. Multi-function switch melt-down.
I recommend you find that connector and confirm that it's fully attached and not melted or something.
#13
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Year: 1990 2 Door
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The only thing the stalk does is direct electricity to the proper side of the car. Here's a quick explanation of how the signals work: When you flip the stalk it completes a circuit between the flasher relay and the turn indicators on one side or the other. The flasher relay is supplied 12 volts any time the key is on, when it detects a specific load based on the position of the stalk, it begins pulsing current through the circuit at a predetermined rate (blink). That's why it flashes faster when you have a bad bulb (less load = faster flash) and why the standard analog flasher relay doesn't work with LED bulbs, they simply don't provide sufficient load to make it flash. A complete lack of signals usually indicates a lack of power to the flasher relay which supplies power to the entire system, not a multi-switch issue. Check both sides of your 20 amp fuse labeled "TURN B/U" (which is also providing circuit protection to your back-up lights) and check the socket I mentioned earlier behind the flasher relay. Also, check the blade connector above the column, I've seen them become partially detached. In order to replace the multi-switch you have to remove the steering wheel and the spring-loaded retainer behind it, from there it's just a matter of pulling the stalk, removing the retaining screws on the multi-switch, disconnecting it from the harness, and replacing it. It's a time consuming job so I would recommend exhausting other causes, first. If it comes to replacing the multi-switch, I've got a write-up here somewhere on tightening the tilt column bolts which involves removing the multi-switch and can link, if necessary.
Thanks again.
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#15
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Try a new flasher. The hazard flasher may be at a minimum spec and not triggering.
ALL hazards blink?
ALL hazards blink?